Offroad-Express

DEATH_INC

Ok. I come from whangarei, and north. I still have family there...sort of. If you can't get it sorted/sold push 'er in the corner for a bit and we'll take a look next time I come up....

DEATH_INC

Thanks alot for your help you have gave me that bit of hope back that has been destroyed time after time I know how frustrating it can be...I've just got My bike with the link in it going...with a very different setup to what it had. I've already killed 2 sets of iridium plugs in it and it's still ...

DEATH_INC

See the gusset on my idler in the pic of it a couple of pages back? That'll stop it bending....but I'd need your arm...and you'd have to have a cruisy wof guy....
I have a new camelot one kicking around but it's probably different to yours....

DEATH_INC

Paulballz wrote:It cranks at around 250 - 300RPM. Here is a video of the megatuner while cranking my engine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhEHnk_8XFk&feature=plcp

Can you do another vid so we can see what it looks like now?

DEATH_INC

My engine does not have a manifold air temp and have been told from megasquirt tuner that the sensors are not need neither is the O2 sensor for megasquirt. Apparently the o2 sensor is stuffed after 80ks anyway and needs to be wide band sensor (dont know what this means so i just agree) Probably cor...

DEATH_INC

In case you hadn't figured it out already 95kpa is atmospheric pressure. not quite atmospheric pressure is actually 101.3kpa You could tell me its 100101.3kpa an ill still knod my head up and down and say "uh haa, sounds about right" Lol. As long as the megasquirt says it's close to 101 w...

DEATH_INC

OK, all sorted now. Turned out I had done some real damage to the steering. Idler arm was bent up by about 15mm. So it is all in now and I'm just playing with the 'eye alignment' now. I used a 2WD center-link. 4WD outer tie-rods, (16mm, left hand threads) 2WD inner Tierods (18mm, right hand threads...

DEATH_INC

In case you hadn't figured it out already 95kpa is atmospheric pressure. not quite atmospheric pressure is actually 101.3kpa Yeh...I found that, just didn't really consider it that important at this point...it's close enough. Edit: Doh....you're onto it, it runs a small amount of vacuum when you cr...

DEATH_INC

Is whanarei whangarei? I come up there every now and then if it is....

DEATH_INC

Always going to carry on for as long as i can. The pump is hard wired on a switch, i check the fuel reg gauge every time i turn key to confirm pressure 35psi vac, 45 without....raises at a 1:1 ratio with boost. Sweet. If you are meaning the injectors then yes. they spray "open" when the e...

DEATH_INC

Well where do i start, The truck has my finances at a stale mate at the moment which is i hate been so close to finish. Heres the verdict some good news and bad. Yesterday i managed to get the truck to run real well with the megasquirt, it was starting first pop and sounded amazing, but the problem...

DEATH_INC

BogBoy wrote:I still have the factory ones in it but when i flick the switch nothing happens to them

How many k's on it?

DEATH_INC

Ok...see how you go with this.
If ya have no luck selling it, or change your mind maybe we can work something out. I couldn't guarantee to get it tuned right, but I'm pretty sure I can get it running for ya. With either ecu if you got a stock loom...

DEATH_INC

Be a shame to let it go after all you've done. Do you need to sell it or is it just because you can't pay someone to sort it?
Did you kill the megasquirt? I see you say it HAD a megasquirt...

DEATH_INC

Cos I'm a lazy sod and can't be knackered searching the forums, and I want to finish my 2WD conversion, where did you all source your 2WD and 4WD tie rods for this? B'nT/Autolign. Make sure they find you 555 one's. You'll have to ask specifically as they are going away from the 555 brand and gettin...

DEATH_INC

fullthrottle wrote:I have the factory specs if it helps...

I only ever use the stock specs as a guideline on anything modified...and even some standard cars specs are wrong...

DEATH_INC

They are at the end of the thread. Left sits much lower than the right. When braking it dives to the front left and when taking off the front lifts up.... Re index first? Yeh, easy. I jack 'er up, loosen the adjusters right off, then undo the bracket that holds the torsions to the front lower arm (...

DEATH_INC

Do you know what specs (toe, camber, etc) yours is set at? I would run 1mm total toe in max with the 2wd setup and try to set the camber as near to 0 as poss, maybe slightly negative (up to .5 deg) on the left if you're worried about tyre wear on the road. Keep an eye on the tyres though, this sett...

DEATH_INC

Just a note...this shows the weak point of the terrano steering setup. Our one's (I'm not sure about lhd) use the idler to hold the centerlink from rotating. The pitman end is free pivoting, so does nothing. So on the left side the lever arm is from the pitman shaft to the inner tre....which is quit...

DEATH_INC

Gardengnome wrote:Cheers for the offer DEATH_INC. My missus has managed to find a pair up north and purchased.

Thanks again. Phil.

Good shit...I had a brief look and couldn't find any anyway...

DEATH_INC

Yep, it looks bent orrite....I reckon we need to reinforce it like mine...you rough bugger!

DEATH_INC

also you need to be aware if you're mixing tyres, the WOF standards state you need to be within 2 or 3 points of the opposing tyre on same axle so luckily you will be fine :mrgreen: Not that it pertains to this, but it is 2 points. And yes 111 load rating will be more than adequate.... And yes, I k...

DEATH_INC

No, it can't be done. The pitman has a small taper to it where it fits on to the box, and the idler would be way too high, and probably hit the chassis. What problem are you having? Mine has enough travel to bind the cv's at full extension, but the tre's are still ok...

DEATH_INC

Ok, so does it sit level? Side to side at the front and the rear? If so put a jack under the CENTER of the front and see if it still does with the wheels elevated, and repeat this with a jack under the rear. It won't be hard to figure out where the problem is....

DEATH_INC

Just for a quick check, try the following. --Camber-- While sitting on a nice level surface, put a level on the front wheels to test the camber. The best way I've found is to have a straight-edge long enough so it rests against the steel/alloy rim and allows you to put a level against it without to...

DEATH_INC

DEATH_INC

Damn, Forgot one other thing. If you are getting a hiss from releasing the cap it's more than likely air venting INTO the tank due to the consumption of fuel. I have seen plastic outboard fuel tanks collapse when the venting valve has not been opened. they eventually starve the engine of fuel. My T...

DEATH_INC

Been giving this thing a bit of thought... A couple of q's first. Do you have a pressure gauge on it? Or have one to test it with? Does it do it with the engine running, or just when you're testing it? Process of elimination. Try it with the fuel cap off, easy, do that first. If it's still the same,...

DEATH_INC

Yes, they are. We have boxes of center caps at work and I'm pretty sure we don't have any....I'll try to get the time to look in the next couple of days....but it takes bloody ages....can you post a pic of the one's you want so I make sure I'm looking for the right thing?

DEATH_INC

I don't think thats possible, the only way you can pressurise something is either add air/fluid to it or decrease the overall volume. Put a pressure gauge on your fuel rail and measure the pressure, it should be 40psi. The return line should be zero or there abouts. That's what I was getting at. Ru...

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