Offroad-Express

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Dirtydog wrote:nangkang mudstars are practicly the same thing,

The GT's are bigger than the Nankangs by a fair bit.

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once you do a bit of work to the engine they go well though, like an intercooler, tuned pump, more boost etc, but then the fuel milage goes down quite a bit. Mine does over 160kph (was clocked at 180 by a mate once before the lights were put on the roof), can do the brenderwyn hills in 5th gear (fa...

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Do they still have the needle jets? It doesn't really look like it....
I have some jets from a fzr thou (I thought I had more...musta used 'em somewhere...) that have 2X110 and 2X107.5. Bit small but if ya want 'em....

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Don't worry about the temp thing, mine has always gone up heaps up hills, as long as it doesn't boil it's all good.

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If you're gonna leave everything attached, get a gasket from the intake manifold end, and make a sheetmetal 'plate' the same shape as the gasket, but with no hole. Then just insert it between the pipe and manifold so it blocks it off. That way the ecu will think it's all on there and working normall...

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Good to see the "collective intellegence" of ORE getting stuck in too. He's talking about you oldyella.... :wink: It's a good thing he popped along...I've never used a megasquirt and trying to transfer knowledge from the Link, a couple of bike ecu's I've played with and what I could see o...

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I have a few jets somewhere...I'll have a look.
Do you ever come to Auckland?

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Yep, what I am thinking is: The MSII has an input for Coolant temp There is a separate input for Air temp - Pin 20. If you are not using the air temp input, what has been done with it? Care needs to be taken to ensure noise is not introduced on this input. Otherwise it could potentially screw up th...

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What sizes? And I assume you know there are a few varieties....some long, some short etc...

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His map is reading what looks correct, and is certainly getting varying vacuum measurements...I doubt it's a blocked hose. Air temp will be ok for what he's doing (no boost off load) and will probably be ok anyway, the Links didn't use air temp 'till the new series and ran fine without it. Map is st...

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The parts you need are BnT/Autolign part # TR680 (centerlink) rrp $170+gst X1 and TE673r (tie rod ends) rrp $ 47+gst each X 2. Then you need to find a friendly local engineer to tap out the 2 adjuster sleeves and 2 locknuts to 18mm. And if you need it you can get an awesome black idler brace :mrgree...

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Cool as, just wanted to see that the maps hadn't gone haywire, look pretty good to me.
Fwiw I don't agree with the local megasquirt guy, it may work with the earths like that, but I wouldn't do it that way. There is too much potential for electrical noise like that.

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You can't see what the fuel mixture is doing can you? If the injectors are open and dumping to much fuel into in it would show that its super rich with the pump on. Switch pump off carrys on running cos it's got to much fuel and slowly leans out until the point of stalling? No, He doesn't have an o...

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(edit; Ive edited heaps from my first attempt... :lol: ) I think I've got something...if the gauges on the top right are pulse width and duty cycle? They both go way to high. Off boost the injector (duty) cycle should only go to around 20% max. Yours is going full. So is the pulse width. I thought i...

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I'm at an absolute loss as to how it can run that long and rev that much with 0 fuel pressure. It makes absolutely no sense at all. All I can think is the injectors are wide open and it's sucking a shitload of fuel whenever the throttle is closed and it creates a heap of vacuum. But even that doesn'...

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I like the #3 option, surge tank with pump up front. No worries about surging in the tank, and no high pressure lines running the length of the truck. Easy wiring (dunno if the carb loom is up to the higher amp draw?) too.

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Although after reading that still do not understand why i only have 1 earth cable coming from ECU in the loom...This cable is not a heavy gauge cable either but i have soldered it to a 25amp cable to earth Mmmm, I'd try to take a peak at what is coming from the plug, see if they've joined 'em all t...

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Paulballz wrote:* PIN 20/31/37 control relay negative

Why does 20 go there? (air temp sensor)
And what does 31 do on yours?

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Nope mine is v2.2 This diagram here http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm Only difference is the drawing i have has * Pin 24 = CAS * Pin 25 = COIL 1/6 * Pin 27 = COIL 2/5 * PIN 29 = COIL 3/4 * PIN 31 = VCT * PIN 32/33 goes to INJECTOR 1-2-3 * PIN 34/35 goes to INJECTOR 4-5-6 * PIN 20/31/37 ...

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Paulballz wrote:
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Paulballz wrote:Ok have tryed that before will do again though run straight to batt earth

Sorry, I may have to take that back...does the megasquirt have 1 or 2 earth wires? Most ecu's have a main earth and a sensor earth.

Just one earth...

I doubt that's right. It should have at least 2.

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Ok have tryed that before will do again though run straight to batt earth Sorry, I may have to take that back...does the megasquirt have 1 or 2 earth wires? Most ecu's have a main earth and a sensor earth. Just one earth... This is where i had so much drama doing wiring as the megasquirt diagram i ...

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Ok have tryed that before will do again though run straight to batt earth Sorry, I may have to take that back...does the megasquirt have 1 or 2 earth wires? Most ecu's have a main earth and a sensor earth. Do you have the V3? If you do the sensor earth should be pin 7, run that one to the block, on...

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In fact, move anything that isn't a sensor earth from there (coilpacs etc), the sensors like a 'clean' signal.

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Hey meatc, the RB engine has a section by the thermostat that is used (standard) for all the earths. I have ran my grounds for the following going there through 6 heavy wires... CAS / Boost Solenoid / Idle up / ECU / Coilpacks / TPS / Coolant sensor / VCT (these are the only original components use...

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but if there was no pressure at the fuel rail it wouldnt run? Egg-sack-tlee, that's what's got me buggered too is the fuel pressure reading done via electrical means? if its the ecu thats reading no fuel pressure at the rail and theres an electrical problem couldnt it be reading wrong? I think (is ...

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This is starting to sound like a wiring problem, maybe the pump is turned on when it says its off? have you checked the loom out yet? That's sorta what I was thinking, if it's wired wrong it may be backfeeding and running at odd times, but not properly....if you know what i mean.... :? Though he do...

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You'll get varying opinions on this...I prefer the adjustable Rancho rs9000xl shocks Myself. Last set of Rancho's I had lasted Me 12 years....I replaced 'em with the same.

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BogBoy wrote:262,000 on the RUC but you never know with diesels

Lol...they'll be well shot then

. Go with newies for sure.

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Note this: to start the engine i turn fuel on and crank until it trys to fire sometimes it does fire but very cough cough, once fired then i switch pump off and it revs straight up to normal and idles. But it will not fire if i do not prime fuel pump before hand. Another note that may be completey ...

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Except mine won't run with the pump disconnected...

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