FITTING A REAR RADIATOR

[4x4rookie]

Checked older posts and can't find what I'd like to know so here goes !
Want to put a rear radiator in my Suzuki sj410 running a Datsun supercharged 1500 motor. Been cut down to a jeep with full roll over frame.
Bought a twin fanned radiator about one and half times the size of the one that's in it now.
Should I be fitting the rear radiator high or low in the rear ? ie- just off the floor or high but below roll over frame
Does the height compared to the height of the original radiator effect possibility of air locks in the system and amount of work the original water pump has to do ?
Will run stainless milking shed pipe to and from the new radiator any tricks or handy hints in installing all pipe work and radiator etc ?
cheers

[zukmeista]

This is all I could find, not sure if you have seen them.
http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=40854
http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=36695&hilit=radiator

[3VILC]

My zooks got the standard radiator mounted at floor height behind the seats. Not sure how it cools yet need to sort brakes to go for a decent blat, Idling seems to cool fine tho. I might add however that I have found I need to remove the top hose at the engine end while filling until water comes thru otherwise air seems to get stuck up there. And I have an issue with vanishing water while its been sitting that I cant for the life of me find where its going suspect a pinhole in rad is likely

[derk]

other than all the usual shit about being able to bleed the system from a high spot and shrouding your fan(s) etc make sure you run a bead of weld on the ends of the stainless tube so you don't keep blowing the rubber hoses off it sounds cool when they blow but its a pain in the arse trying to put everything back together especially when hot coolants trying to get you

[Team Tonka]

Don't rely on the standard water pump, fit a Craig Davies pump or similar. Don't remove the thermostat and don't bother with fancy controllers, just wire the pump via the ignition acc position and have it going all the time. Air in the system is the only headache then. you'll need to provide a way to bleed it. The temp gauge wont work well when not surrounded by water so be wary of that. Its easy to check for an air lock, just squeeze the top hose, you'll feel the difference between water and air.

[3VILC]

Was thinking about that for mine. I presume you would plumb it in before the water pump? Theres a few on trademe but dont say what size the pipes are which is a pain.

[3VILC]

the davies craig pumps i see do options of 19mm, 1", 26mm, 32mm inlets.. the hoses on my truck are 28mm..go figure lol

[mudtroll]

I'm just using the engine driven water pump, never had any issues.

[LOLYF]

I also run standard water pump and have zero issues.
Nearly all the trucks mudtroll and I wheel with have rear radiators ( probably 10 trucks) I think only one has an aftermarket pump.

[Team Tonka]

Plumb it in anywhere in the pipe flowing into the engine, to push water into the motor. The Davies Craig ones usually have adaptors in the kit for different size pipes. Best deal seems to be ebay aussie. I've seen plenty work without pumps, but with mine noted the temp gauge would rise up past half and then cycle down again so the thermostat was not able to govern the engine temp as it should. Governed running temp is just below half on the gauge. Its so much happier with the pump, gauge never moves above normal, and the fans cut in at 85 degrees and only ever run for a couple of minutes. Prob worth noting though that the Mitsi 6G74 motor has the water inlet set quite high and the thermostat is on the inlet too.
For about $250 I don't reckon its worth the risk. I'd have been watching the temp gauge all the time.