FJ40 roll cage, power steering, and disc brake front end

[cooksworld]

Well.. a little bit of progress. Bull bars are painted up in POR15 and they are waiting to be bolted on. Brought some more roll cage padding to do the front of the roll cage down besides the windscreen etc. Also called up Ken from Wellington Vehicle Compliance (where Fakey http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=18591 got his FJ cert'd)... after a chat about the mods he said I'd probably have to get it cert'd over the Wairarapa as he can't cert PS conversions - used to get Andrew W. to counter sign them... After a but more of a chat he mentioned he might be able to get some form of exemption - send through some photos of the mods. Did that, followed him up and he thinks we might get the exemption - phew!

I've booked in the vehicle at a friends garage to plumb in (flare) the brake lines for the rear proportioning valve next Friday so this weekend will take it on it maiden voyage with the 4 wheel disc brakes to see if things are any better than last time around.

[Fakey]

Good work. He got the exemption without any trouble when he did mine. Dont know why he isnt certed for steering mods. Biggest problem i had was with the Idiots from LTSA who kept printing the cert plate wrong, missing important things out etc. Took them 3 attempts an they still got it wrong
Cheers
Warren

[cooksworld]

Well... it's been some time since my last post. Been slowly beavering away in the garage. Finished up the side bars and rear bars for the corners and tail lights. Also put a length of 10mm angle iron along the rear chassis to firstly straighten it up and then strengthen it up.

Also took it for a drive to hopefully bead in the brakes as it's off for LVVC on Thursday - fingers crossed. Took it for a drive to the south coast and got a couple of photos.





On the drive back the vehicle started getting hotter... then when I parked up outside home there was smoke... then I could see flames...! Luckily switching the vehicle off killed the source of the fire and the extinguisher wasn't needed. Turned out to be the wiring to the fan had cooked and shorted out. Back in the vehicle and the water temp was at 240deg (normally 180). The motor would hardly turn over and the radiator was bubbling something crazy and there was even water appearing between the inlet manifold and heads Out with the hose and cooled the radiator down and after about 20 min it had cooled down enough and fired into life. No idea what was happening inside the motor but had visions of it being seized with the way it wasn't turning over (like a flat flat battery). Parked it up and walked away... sigh.

Question for people:

My fan belts for the alt and PS are set up like so:


At the moment it looks like it's chewing the alternator belt and I'm guessing that this is because the PS pump is running on the larger diameter pulley and the alternator is running on the smaller one so the length of belt driven around the pulleys is different between the left and right hand side. (Does that make any sense?)

I'm planning to remount my alternator as the bottom mount is in the way of me running the belts like in the diagram below, but I'm hoping this might solve the problem...


Any thoughts/theories appreciated. A few things to sort before Thur:
1/ Alternator mount
2/ Rewire front a rear radiator fans

And finally - hope the damn brakes pass the test on Thur as they still only feel mediocre to me.

[ClassicCruiserSpares]

Running it like the first diagram shoud be fine as long as both pulleys on the water pump are the same size other wise the belts will be trying to turn the water pump at two different speeds.

[cooksworld]

Running it like the first diagram shoud be fine as long as both pulleys on the water pump are the same size other wise the belts will be trying to turn the water pump at two different speeds.

Nope both are different sizes. The alternator is running on as smaller pulley on both the water pump and crank pulley. Never really considered it when I moved everything around to fit on the PS way back but considering the low number of hours it's been running (like 1.5 max) I can see the fan belt is already wearing....Thx for confirming my own stupidity!

[ClassicCruiserSpares]

The first setup can work but both belts need to turn the same speed which can take abit of working out so the second option mite be you easy way to sort the problem.

[wopass]

easy man, get a shorter belt for the PS and go from the crank to the PS not around the WP or the other way is get a shorter belt for the ALT and go to the crank and not around the WP, either or which ever is easiest, i have run both of these ways and both work fine.

[wopass]

haaa found a pic in one of my threads



like that or opposite depending on what lines up best

[cooksworld]

haaa found a pic in one of my threads



like that or opposite depending on what lines up best

Yeah I'll have a look tonight as that would be the easiest option. I see you're using the chev PS pump so the location might be different to mine which is Surf pump on custom mount.

[wopass]

nah thats just a pic i found on one of my threads from way back, its another one of the lads from here.

heres what mine used to look like and it worked mint

[cooksworld]

Last evening I modified the mount for the alternator so that I can run the belt between the water pump and alternator which seems to have gone okay. I picked up a new fan belt today but found that my measurements were way off an I could still fit 2 finger between the belt and pulley when the alt was at its maximum adjustment. I also replaced the wiring for the front and rear radiator fans with higher rated relays and wiring as well as wiring it directly from the battery. I also found a few things:

1. the brand new 16" fan behind the radiator has seized - this was the likely reason for the overheating and fire (plus no inline fuse). It's only been running for approx 1 hr and its f*ucked... tracked down the supplier and another one is coming down overnight.
2. the front fan (ex skyline one that couldn't quite keep the vehicle cool under hill climbs) had managed to somehow lose the nut retaining the fan so the fan had dropped off the motor!
3. the earth strap from the motor to chassis hadn't been bolted up - I don't know what difference this will make but I do recall an old Datsun 1600 doing odd things because the motor didn't have a good negative connection.

It doesn't feel like things are sorted for Thursdays compliance check but hopefully it will all magically come together tomorrow night...

[cooksworld]

Some quick photos...

How the belts were...



This one sort of shows that the belt can't run directly between the bottom pulley and alternator - same for the PS pump.



Bracket top bolt hole removed to allow the belt to run directly between WP and Alt.



Some random photos:

Rear proportioning valve.



Buggered fan.

[Fakey]

Keep up the good work Stefan dont stress too much about getting it perfect for tomorrow chances are he wont really look at it for a few days like he did with mine. Just cos Id booked didnt mean he was in any hurry to get it done

[cooksworld]

Yeah all good... just trying to go in prepared Got it all back together tonight and took it for a drive - it all seems okay. Roll on tomorrow

[cooksworld]

Dave Ward towing picked up the FJ this morning and delivered it for LVVC... first thing to go looks like the rear seat... he brought out a steel mannequin the pivoted to mimic the movement of a body in the crash and it hit the rear and centre hoop... will consider looking at other options like a van seat that I can possibly mount lower and possibly pass the 'test'. He also said he'd call but nothing from him so I'm guessing (as Warren Fakey mentioned) he'll sit on it for a few days.. all in good time

[cooksworld]

No vehicle back but apparently it has passed the brake test!!! That's one big hurdle... there also might be some rule around 'childs seat' which I might be able to get the rear seat through on... Picking it up on Monday.

[cooksworld]

Still no vehicle back but had another chat and it was ready to pick up but didn't have time to get out there before they closed up shop. From memory there are a few things...
1/ New brake lines required between both diffs and chassis (arriving tomorrow from BNT).
2/ New seatbelt mounting plates in behind rear belt anchor points. It's currently got a 150x100x6mm plate but needs to be some specific seatbelt backing plate.
3/ Rear seat - I can hopefully get away with setting up the rear belts to be 3 point instead of the current lap belts and this will get around the current height clearance problem.

Not sure what else but picking it up tomorrow morning. I think Ken (cert man) also was chatting to Skid about whether the steering shaft was an original 70 series item (there's a factory weld that he needs to okay).

Skid - encase your on this site this was the post put up by sadam husain (http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... 38#p190938). I did a trade with Sig for a std 60 series one and this was the shortened 70 series one (http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... 63#p192963). I've also placed a full size image up here if you want see the detail of the shaft prior to painting it - http://offroadadventures.co.nz/fj40-bui ... G_7761.jpg.

Cheers

[Fakey]

Ive got a standard 70 steering shaft in the garage if you want to borrow it to show him?
The seat belt plates sound strange. Are yours mounted to the tub?
I put my mounts on the cage an seat frame an he was fine with that except I had to add some extra mounting plates for the seat frame

[cooksworld]

Ive got a standard 70 steering shaft in the garage if you want to borrow it to show him?
The seat belt plates sound strange. Are yours mounted to the tub?
I put my mounts on the cage an seat frame an he was fine with that except I had to add some extra mounting plates for the seat frame

Cool - should be all good around the shaft hopefully but will keep that in mind if needed thanks. The seatbelt plate in mention (I think) is for the back seats and is mounted on the vertical side of the back tub...

[sig]

it was me who was talking to him today .i told him it was a factory weld

[cooksworld]

it was me who was talking to him today .i told him it was a factory weld

Hey... sorry - thought he said 'skid' How's that garage of yours? See you been cleaning out chevy part on TM...

[sig]

yeah .guy from levin got a bargain ,almost 4 complete engines plus extras for 1000 bucks .but ive got some space back in my garage now .time to start a couple of new projects

[skid]

its bloody confusing sometimes I tell ya

apparently I look like Ken

Ken is my boss, but when I'm in there folks come in start talking to me about certs , before they have a second look and realise its not Ken,

and then theres the name confusion.............

Skid, Sig, Skiddy, Ziggy, Siggy

we get it all the time


righto, hopefully the mighty 40 is still there tomorrow, so I can sneak a look

[cooksworld]

its bloody confusing sometimes I tell ya

apparently I look like Ken

Ken is my boss, but when I'm in there folks come in start talking to me about certs , before they have a second look and realise its not Ken,

and then theres the name confusion.............

Skid, Sig, Skiddy, Ziggy, Siggy

we get it all the time


righto, hopefully the mighty 40 is still there tomorrow, so I can sneak a look

LOL - oops...

"hopefully the mighty 40 is still there tomorrow" - hardly mighty... feels like I'm just getting it across the line. Might be time to go get it muddy however once it deemed okay to go on the road

[cooksworld]

Right, got the vehicle back and the list is:

1/ (rear seat) Fit web grabber seat belts
2/ Front and rear brake hoses to diff
3/ Fit front brake hose clip correctly
4/ Straighten left rear rim lip
5/ Padding on roll cage side bars
6/ Exhaust flange leaking
7/ Fuel hose and brake line too close to exhaust
8/ Rust around front body mount (2x 5c bubbles on front headlight surround)
9/ Drive shaft safety hoop
10/ Screw missing from bonnet hinge and windscreen frame

Nothing major!!!!

[cooksworld]

Right, got the vehicle back and the list is:

1/ (rear seat) Fit web grabber seat belts
DONE - 2/ Front and rear brake hoses to diff
DONE - 3/ Fit front brake hose clip correctly
4/ Straighten left rear rim lip
DONE - 5/ Padding on roll cage side bars
6/ Exhaust flange leaking
7/ Fuel hose and brake line too close to exhaust
8/ Rust around front body mount (2x 5c bubbles on front headlight surround)
9/ Drive shaft safety hoop
DONE - 10/ Screw missing from bonnet hinge and windscreen frame

Nothing major!!!!

As well as the items above I managed to get the manifold / exhaust flanges apart without snapping any of the studs. No gaskets in place so I'm on the hunt for some of those. Cert man also mentioned play in the both ends of the 60 series drag link (nothing in sheet) however I can't undo one side. Never adjusted one of these before and on the side that I can turn all it seem to do when I adjust it up is alter the angle of the ball joint. I couldn't notice any increase in tension which is what I was expecting. Found an article on pulling them apart so will give that a go (http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coole ... 40/21C.htm - not 60 series but same idea) - I also remember Sig mentioning that you can get the complete set up for something like $60-100 via Toyota with their standard pricing across items so will investigate that but I think that might be x-Japan.

Also while investigating drag links I found this online book on the old F series motors in case anyone was after one. Looks like an early publication but I'm sure some of the info would still be of use - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coole ... ngine.html

Also picked up some steel for the driveshaft safety loop and new seatbelt brackets which I have to pop out the corner windows at the back to get in there with the welder.

[cooksworld]

Does this look familiar - http://www.3rdrock4x4.com/forum/viewtop ... a&start=50

For those into FJ's there was even more photos here of niblik's build.

[Sadam_Husain]

I also remember Sig mentioning that you can get the complete set up for something like $60-100 via Toyota with their standard pricing across items so will investigate that but I think that might be x-Japan.

dunno about 60 series but I brought a complete 70 series drag link and tie rod from toyota 18 months ago and they were $40 each plus GST ex Japan and they came with the ball joints on both ends and I just brought another set this week and they are ex NZ overnight courier and $45 plus GST each now, even if the rods are the wrong length for you its a cheap way to buy new ball joints

[cooksworld]

Anyone know where you can get a thermostat housing for a Edelbrock (or similar) inlet manifold in Wellington? Managed to crack my one putting in a new sensor.



... just had a look on TM and might just get one from there...

[williamhamilton]

Anyone know where you can get a thermostat housing for a Edelbrock (or similar) inlet manifold in Wellington? Managed to crack my one putting in a new sensor.



... just had a look on TM and might just get one from there...

I grabbed one from the speed shop in Lower Hutt... sorry no idea what it is called but sure someone here will.

W