Clints Cruiser Project

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Wed May 24, 2006 7:48 am

Mattman wrote:Wicked skills guys. Nice solid acheivement in a weekend.

Are you going to waterproof any of the engine electricals for the motor?

Cheers
Matt.


Yep I'm pretty rapt, it's amazing what you can do when you have all the required skills & equipment on hand. Mike & Klem are pretty talented, not only can they make cool stuff, they can do it bloody quickly.

I'll probably just spray all the electrics with silicone & soft-seal the connectors, that worked well on the 4AGE in the Zuk. The wiring is pretty well shielded from splashes & We don't do quite as much river work here in the North as you Southerners do.

Yep, the pipes are awesome, Klem put a lot of work into shaping them to allow for future 35" tyre installation :twisted: I was just going to have the extra muffler detachable by exhaust clamp - I doubt they'll look twice at that.

Cheers
Clint

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JTop
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Postby JTop » Wed May 24, 2006 8:07 am

There is a Big Block 40 in Wgtn, known as The Truk, which has/had a switch under the throttle pedal to electrically open the dumps on full throttle.
J Top

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Mattman
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Postby Mattman » Wed May 24, 2006 8:11 am

As an earlier poster said those manually/electrically adjustable/openable exhaust valves will not pass a WOF from what I have seen.

Pipes with a side exit and a cap should be okay I would have thought.

Anyone else know?

Cheers

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SupraLux
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Postby SupraLux » Wed May 24, 2006 9:25 am

Very nice work... I like it. And fast too... Theres something to be said for having everything you need assembled before you need it :) Might look into that concept... one day :D

Steve

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Tue May 30, 2006 11:46 am

Got into the side bars in the weekend. Klem had put in a plate for the front mount while he was doing the exhaust:

Image

I made up a rear mount & Mike migged it on:

Image

Bars all done. Stuff like this can be a bugger cos it always pulls when ya weld it then doesn't bolt up nicely but these came out alright.

Image

The test:

Image

Seems strong enough.

Then I took off the bumper & started thinking about how the winch & bullbar will work:

Image

Cheers
Clint
Last edited by Clint on Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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SupraLux
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Postby SupraLux » Tue May 30, 2006 6:35 pm

Thats all looking really good... although I suggest making the front risers for the bar out of something a little more solid... those will flap about a lot when you get up to speed :lol:

Did you weld nuts to the back of those plates then drill 4 holes in the chassis for the nuts to slip through?

Steve

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Wed May 31, 2006 8:30 am

SupraLux wrote:Thats all looking really good... although I suggest making the front risers for the bar out of something a little more solid... those will flap about a lot when you get up to speed :lol:

Did you weld nuts to the back of those plates then drill 4 holes in the chassis for the nuts to slip through?

Steve


Thanks Steve,

That's just a pattern, I work at a panel mill so I was thinking of using 25mm MDF for a bit more ridgidity :P

The plates were all drilled & tapped. The rear ones were drilled & tapped right through into the chassis. The good thing doing this at the same time as the engine conversion is that this sort of stuff can be done no worries (by the right person) 'cos it can all go on the cert plate.

Played around with winch & bar stuff a bit last night & Mike gave me a hand to start making some mounts. The fairlead will sit at most 50mm out from where the original bumper was.

Cheers
Clint

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Postby Rangielux » Wed May 31, 2006 8:40 am

SupraLux wrote:Thats all looking really good... although I suggest making the front risers for the bar out of something a little more solid... those will flap about a lot when you get up to speed :lol:


Steve

Paper is really hard to weld too :lol: hehe

All shit aside, it looks good - carry on :!:

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Fri Jun 30, 2006 3:25 pm

Got the bullbar & winch mounts mostly tacked up. Going to pull it off this weekend & weld it up properly:

Image

The 50x3 flat to wrap around the uprights should be here next week, so once thats on I'll be able to paint it then I'll bolt on an alloy skid panel under the winch & the job will be done. It looks like we may have to trim the bottom tank on the radiator to fit the PTO shaft though.

Cheers
Clint
Last edited by Clint on Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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bundymonkey
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Postby bundymonkey » Wed Jul 12, 2006 4:55 pm

Fistly nice work with the conversion in a weekend.

I am looking at doing the same conversion in my LJ70 Bundera so if you dont mind I have a cople of Qs.
How much room was left either side and front of the motor?
Are you running a thermo or do you still have the engine fan?
Did you use the factory radiator or haveyou upgraded it and if you kept the original have you had any overheating issues?
And finally if you had used a front or rear sump would you have had the issues with it hitting the diff?

Thanks

Andrew

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Fri Jul 14, 2006 12:12 pm

bundymonkey wrote:Fistly nice work with the conversion in a weekend.

I am looking at doing the same conversion in my LJ70 Bundera so if you dont mind I have a cople of Qs.
How much room was left either side and front of the motor?
Are you running a thermo or do you still have the engine fan?
Did you use the factory radiator or haveyou upgraded it and if you kept the original have you had any overheating issues?
And finally if you had used a front or rear sump would you have had the issues with it hitting the diff?

Thanks

Andrew


G'day, To answer your q's:

There was heaps of room either side. The closest parts were the steering box & the power steer pump. As noted the firewall needed a couple of taps to give clearance behind one of the cam covers.

I'm using the original 'cruiser radiator, shifted about 15mm forward (easy) with the cap socket soldered on in the middle. The original shroud was modified to fit around the 1UZ's factory viscous fan. It stays cool no problem even at low speed & high revs in the bush. Haven't tried it in really hot conditions though.
Mike's experience is that the 1UZ engine fan gives the best result - most electric fans don't really cut it offroad.

I think with a front or rear sump you'd probably still have to cut out a corner to make them fit. We didn't have any lying around to compare with though. I could take some pics from underneath so you can see the placement if you like.

Cheers
Clint
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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bundymonkey
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Postby bundymonkey » Sun Jul 16, 2006 7:16 pm

Thanks if you could send through as many pics as possible cheers

square_bears@hotmail.com

Thanks

Andrew

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SupraLux
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Postby SupraLux » Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:24 pm

Actually, post them in here as thats more useful to forum members than insividualy emailing them all over the place :)

Steve

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Postby wjw » Mon Jul 17, 2006 5:53 pm

I may want to do this to my LWB prado soon so any info posted would be great... also a PM of the costs would be wonderful :D
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thommo73
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Postby thommo73 » Thu Sep 07, 2006 8:32 pm

what gearbox did you mate it to, and what size was the flywheel

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Fri Sep 08, 2006 3:49 pm

It's still got the standard R150F gearbox, mated to the modified lexus bellhousing via an adapter plate.

Not 100% sure on the flywheel size, I'll find out. It's as big as you can go using the 1UZ ringgear & still fitting in the bellhousing anyway. It's made to fit a Nissan Skyline RB26DETT clutch assembly & a modified toyota thrust bearing.

Cheers
Clint
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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thommo73
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Postby thommo73 » Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:54 pm

thanks, i'm trying to mate my motor to a h55f out of a MWB landcruiser (11inch clutch), but no one seems to have done it/ or willing to share info.

anyway thanks
Thommo

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Update!

Postby Clint » Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:31 am

I've been pottering away quietly on the cruiser for a bit. I got the front bar finished & painted & the winch mounted up:

Image

I had to make up a bracket to mount the rear of the winch to the front x-member, move the lower radiator hose to the other side & put a notch in the bottom of the radiator to fit the PTO shaft through. There was already a factory notch in the x-member.
As the pto driveshaft was for a cruiser with the std 'porch' out the front I had to shorten the driveshaft a fair bit. The driveshaft mounting brackets were welded onto the chassis, one had to be modified slightly to fit. I also had to make up a flange to attach the shaft to the keyed shaft on the winch industries pto box.

Image

I had the remains of the PTO selector lever mechanism that we had butchered up to put on Klem's comp truck, so I made up a new bracket & linkage with some of those bits & weka'd the 4wd lever off the FJ40 parts wreck. The previous owner had had a PTO setup in it but had removed so I cut a slot in his blanking plate for the lever & made up a catch to prevent inadvertent operation.

Image

I roped it up with the cable I got with the trademe winch which was in quite good nick & there was plenty of it, then it was off to Taupo Rigging for a hook & the job was done.
I winched a dead tree over with it in the weekend & It seemed to work well, have to organise a mission somewhere for some more rigorous testing now :)

Cheers
Clint
Last edited by Clint on Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:10 pm, edited 3 times in total.
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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NJV6
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Postby NJV6 » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:51 pm

That bar looks awesome. It's a credit to ya.
SWB V6 Paj with one or two mods ;)

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;-p

Postby wopass » Mon Sep 25, 2006 3:29 pm

i think i heard the north island safari calling your name :wink: labour weekend :D
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Mon Sep 25, 2006 3:50 pm

Cheers Guys,

Don't look too closely NVJ6, It's my first big project with a mig, I'm a bit tidier with a stick welder but the mig is so fast in comparison. I reckon it'd look a bit better if it was narrower but I wanted it the same width as the body.

North Is Safari? That makes 4 different things I want to do Labour wkend, Mum's 60th is one of them so I don't have much option there.

Cheers
Clint
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:58 am

Hey Thommo, the flywheel is 300mm diameter, sorry about the belated reply.

Cheers
Clint
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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WACKO
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Postby WACKO » Tue Sep 26, 2006 5:47 pm

how are you finding the sumitomos? wear and traction wise?

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Postby wjw » Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:28 pm

Thats the sorta bar I want to make, except with the bottom tubes recessed under the front bodywork. Did you use the existing Mounts?
-----------------------
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Clint
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Postby Clint » Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:32 am

Hi Guys

The Sumitomos seem to be doing alright. Traction wise they're pretty good, much as you'd expect being a fairly open pattern for an MT. I've only got a few thousand k's on them & the wear looks OK but it's hard to tell. At near 1/2 the price of some of the brands that are known for their durability I'm not too worried :D

The bar is just mounted to the chassis rails. Once you pull off the old bumper you're left with the 2 bare rails sticking out, they're full of holes with captive nuts & there's nothing much in the way so it's real easy. Cut out your uprights, drill 4 holes in each, bolt 'em on & build from there. Be aware that they don't sit quite paralell due to the angle on the chassis rails.

I was tempted to cut off the lower front trim, indicators & the front of the mudguards under the level of the headlights & do away with the lower horizontal bar but decided it would be a bit much dicking around.

Cheers
Clint
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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Postby Moriarty » Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:33 am

Conan wrote:
a man could waste a bit of time on that website



true that :shock: missed the fact its suppose to be advertising ..... well advertising for profit i mean :lol:

peow peow :D


Damn near went blind, had to go and have a cold shower......
bookmarked the site just in case.....

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Clint
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Postby Clint » Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:08 pm

Got rid of the useless electric hubs last week, put on some hilux hubs with the good strong Aisin free wheeling units. I took a few pics & I'll write up a bit of a how to article next week as there isn't much info out there on what parts are needed etc.

Cheers
Clint
Last edited by Clint on Wed Nov 01, 2006 12:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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Postby wjw » Fri Oct 20, 2006 1:46 pm

Did you use adaptors?
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Clint
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Landcruiser Electric to Manual Hub Swap

Postby Clint » Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:30 am

Toyota Manual Hub Install: LJ71 Landcruiser

The stock electric hubs fitted to the LJ71, & several other Cruisers, are crap & if you've got some that actually work, enjoy them while they last cos it wont be long before they give up the ghost if you are actually using the vehicle for it's intended purpose. At least carry the right torx bit & driver so you can take off the cover & manually engage them in an emergency.

Fitting manual hubs involves a bit more than just buying a set & bolting them on however so I thought I'd note down what I did to assist others. If you've got the skills & tools to adjust your front wheel bearings, you're well capable of doing this job.

The problem with the electric hubs is that the wheel hub is shorter, so there is no room behind a free wheeling hub for the locknut assembly. Fitting a spacer is possible but not very strong. One solution, developed by Oldblue, is to fit a sealed manual drive to the outside of the electric hub - operated by an allen key. The solution I decided on was to use some Hilux parts & fit standard Hilux Aisin hubs.

Image
Hilux hub on left, cruiser on right.

Parts Required:

Wheel Hubs from a beam axle Hilux, free wheeling hubs of your choice, wheel bearing lockrings & nuts, front spindles (optional), sealant, Loctite.

I picked up a whole front axle assembly off Trademe for $200. Mine was mid 80's vintage but as far as I know all beam axle Hilux's have the same parts. Look for one with the factory Aisin free wheeling hubs, they're pretty strong & don't stick out too far. Get something steel rather than aluminium at any rate. If you've got any bearings, seals etc in the front or in your donor hub that need doing, obviously now is the time for that also.

Tools Required:

The only tools needed that some may not have are a couple of Torx bits; #20 & #40. The best thing I've found for the circlips on the axles is the cheap interchangeable head circlip pliers which come with a head with a couple of 'paddles'. You can use a screwdriver or 2 but flicking the clip across the workshop into a pile of junk never to be seen again is a PITA at times.

Image

Procedure:

Put the vehicle up on axlestands & remove the wheels. Unbolt the brake calipers & tie them up out of the way.

Unbolt the old electric hubs, take off the circlip, remove, then undo the lockring & take off the wheel bearing nut. Fish out the outer bearing race. With a bit of wiggling the hub should pull off.

The old Hilux disc will most likely be solid, the Prado brakes are vented. You need to remove the disc from your old hub. The studs go through the disc & press into the hub. To remove the studs find an old wheelnut you don't like to thread onto the studs before you bash them out with a FBH. Some discs also have a couple of bolts holding them on. Put your original discs on your new hub & press or FBH the studs back in.

As far as I could tell the original hub spindles would work with the new hubs. However I decided that the Prado spindles with the conductors for the hub drive running up the centre & the extra slots in the end for the brushes, didn't look as strong as the Hilux ones I had on hand. I took off the brake backing plate & original spindles, cutting off the wires that feed into the spindle. I took out the axles while I was there & packed some fresh grease into the CV's & all around. A healthy dollop of RTV was required to bung up the hole where the wires went in, & also a smear of sealant around where the spindle bolts on.

Image

Then It's a simple reassembly job using the new bits, greasing as we go, & checking the condition of any old bearings & seals that are going back in.

Image

After setting the wheel bearing preload I locked the nuts with some screw-on type lock rings that I had, but the hilux bend-the-tab type could be used, or the original screw-on lock rings could be cut down & made to fit.

Then it's on with the manual hubs, making sure they are all lubed & driving in out freely. Don't forget that outer circlip. Use Locktite on all the free wheeling hub bolts & torque them up firmly, they're buggers of things for coming loose. Check them again after your first 4wdriving session on them too.

Put the calipers & wheels back on, pump the brakes up in case the calipers got opened up a bit during removal & you're good to go.

Image

Cheers
Clint
Last edited by Clint on Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
UZJ71 Landcruiser
Jeep J20 - 1UZ-FE powered (part owner)
KTM 640

If it breaks, build it stronger.
If it doesn't break, drive it harder.

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bundymonkey
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Postby bundymonkey » Thu Nov 02, 2006 4:41 pm

Nice work on the build up. I have a Ozy spec LJ70 that I am in the progress of the 1UZ conversion. This is a link to my buildup

http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=11316

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