Zuk on 38's

Starting a project or modification? Then post it's progress here and show us some pic's.

Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:21 am

Hi Everyone,

I live in Pompano Beach, Florida and this is my 1987 Samurai JX Build.

(This is one of my Bucket List Builds so it is a bit over the top)


I have posted some of the build in the Welcome section as a preview. Decided to move the build over here for an appropriate build thread.


Hope you will be interested :D :D

I will start off with the before and in progress pics because it is still being built.


Image


Finally got the front suspension together enough to roll the Rig outside for the first time in a year and a half.
:shock: :shock: :shock:

Image


My buddy stopped by today with his stocker. Thought that you would like to see what that looks like next to the big one while it was out.


Image

For those interested in the lift dimensions:

Stocker is 15.5” to the bottom of the rocker panel.
Big one is 36” to the bottom of the rocker panel.

There is a 20.5” difference in lift from the stocker to the big one.
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:23 am

Here are the suspension and drive train stats:

88" wheelbase, 84 inches tall, 82 inches wide.

Front frame extended 8 inches rear 3 inches

4 1/2 inch YJ lifted springs

Toyo 38's and 16x12 wheels

85 Toy front axle with all Trail Gear inners including Trunion Bearing Eliminator
529 gears open and High Pinion, 6 Shooter Knuckles with High Steer and 1 inch
Space.r

Rear axle is Trail Gear offset Sami Toy housing, 529 gears open and 1.5 spacers,
Rear Disk Brake, Outboard Shocks.

FJ80 steering box, Panhard bar and Rancho 9000 36" length.

ZOR Snatch

6.5 Transfer Case Gears

The trans will also be gone through

No driveshafts yet
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:24 am

Here is the motor. I have a small machine shop and machined a lot of the parts for the
motor, suspension and steering mods.

Here is the Before Pic


Image


After

Image


Motor: 1.3 .020 over and deck shaved,


I used dish pistons because of the decking,

1.6 Reynolds ported polished and larger valves and shaved head.

Adjustable timing gear was used because of the shaving of the head and block.

I also had to make a custom timing adjuster wheel. It was too small in diameter and was unable to get the timing belt tight.

Internals are balanced and flywheel,

I'm going to use a Centerforce clutch this time.

The intake was made from a solid block of 6061. It started at 35 pounds when the machining was done it was 8 pounds. I also decided to machine the water ports in the manifold.

The carbs are 32mm Katana GSX-F.

The external accessories on the motor I have also machined up.

The distributor has been switched to mechanical.
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:26 am

Image




Please feel free to click on the link to hear the motor run.



8) http://www.skyscomputers.com/pictures/friends/Zuk%20Motor.wmv 8)
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:31 am

I also do fiberglass work ( Not By Choice)

After installing the front Shrock Work bumper it looked like it was missing something. I decided to make a lower valance to conceal the 8” frame extension. I’m also getting a bit older and needed an additional step. I decided to make some running boards for the 2nd step. The back tire is being used as the 1st.

The bumpers, fiberglass pieces and the body moldings were Rhino Lined to match the paint for durability.


Front Lower Valance

Image


Side View Running Board

Image


Rear Side View Running Boards

Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:32 am

Front Frame Extension is 8” and is level to the ground instead of following the frame. I also smooth out all my welds. This tends to add a lot more time to a build just my preference.


Image


Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:34 am

The Rig is rather high as you can see. This presented some unique problems trying to get the steering geometry setup without a steep angle. I will go through the mods and the parts that needed to be made to correct the problems in the next couple of posts.


I also have an unusual steering set up with the FJ80 box, Lifted YJ springs and the addition of the Panhard bar just to make it more complicated. There is not a great deal of room to work with when you have to add a shock tower in the mix on the DS.



Steering Front View. I still need to do some welding and fitting yet.
The steering geometry is set at 5 degrees.

Image


Panhard Bar was bent at one end to 5 degrees to shorten the PS mounting bracket. I have a 3/4 Heim in the DS and will be using a suspension bushing on the PS. This will help the bar from flopping with the bend in it.

Image


Extended High Steer Arm was made from 8620 the same material the 6 shooter arm is made out of. These pieces will be tig welded together. The block started off at 30 pounds. After several hours of whittling I got it down to a more manageable 9 pounds.

Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:35 am

To help eliminate one problem:

I started off by dropping the FJ80 box 1” to help decrees the drag link angle. The Frame was notched 1” and the holes filled in the frame before adding the frame plates. This was done to the inside, outside, top, bottom and the notch.

1" Frame Drop Mod

Image


1/4 Outside Drop Plate

Image


Outside plate mounted with DOM bushings and rosset welding holes.

Image


Inside plate mounted

Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:36 am

Now that I have the FJ80 box mod done. The next issue was mounts for shocks, panhard and bump stops. This took me quite a while to come up with something to incorporate all of this into 2 mounts.

Note:

These mounts were made to sandwich over the TG Shock and Ball support Brackets on both sides.



Driver Side (Side View) Shock Mount and Bumpstop Pad

Image


Passenger Side (Rear View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad that still needs to be added to the top.

Image



Passenger Side (Side View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad

Image



Passenger Side (Front View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad

Image



Drivers Side Frame Panhard Bracket and Lower Bumpstop Mount

Image


NOTE:

Thought I would add that I switched over to the 6 shooters after the pics were taken.
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:38 am

This is the side that got to be very congested.


Components:
Fj80 Box
Panhard Bar Bracket
Ford Shock Tower

Mods:
1" Frame Notch
Frame Plating
Bump Out for the Steering U-Joint and Box Plating

Image




Drivers Side Bumpstop Mounting and Pad Locations. There will be additional bracing added to the Panhard Bar Mount for the stress of the Bumpstop Action.

Image



FJ80 Box 1/2 Extension Block. I added this to lengthen the Drag Link. This will also cut down on the angle and decrease the rotational effects of the Panhard Bar.

Note:

The Drag Link length is 37 1/2 inches. Anything over 36 inches is ideal for a Panhard Bar applications.

Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:40 am

This was 9 months of work in a few postings. There is a lot more to see if there is any interest.

Please let me know and I will continue with the build.
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby chrome » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:46 am

If this site had a LIKE button i would push it
some sweet machining work there mate
DIRTY OLD HILUX
022 519 7700
User avatar
chrome
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 882
Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 1:00 pm
Location: the swamp

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:54 am

chrome wrote:If this site had a LIKE button i would push it
some sweet machining work there mate



Thanks for the mention of the machining.

Here is my back ground

33 years experience in Tool and Die, Tooling Machinist, Job Shop Machinist,
CNC Machinist, CNC Programmer. Have also got a small shop of my own to putter in. Just a lathe and a mill for the big stuff all tooled up.

Things that I usually build consist of Hotrods, Custom Motorcycles and a few Rigs as far as automotive work.
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:00 am

Since there was interest in the machining here are a couple more pics of the intake.

6061 Aluminum Intake

( This ways a solid block and weighed 35 pounds )

When it was finished it was 8 pounds


Image


Image


This took 260 hours just for the intake. This was also done manually and no cad design was used.
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby kbushnz » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:02 am

Wow that's a sweat build, love the fabrication work...
Will be good to see it doing some trail work...
Keep the photo's coming...
Cheers Calvin
KZJ78 Landcruiser Prado...
User avatar
kbushnz
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 2181
Joined: Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:03 am
Location: Massey, Auckland

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby chrome » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:07 am

jeez mate you said it was a little over the top....
what else is on that bucket list of yours
awesome skills. im only a fabricator :oops: chop and weld style for me :mrgreen:
DIRTY OLD HILUX
022 519 7700
User avatar
chrome
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 882
Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 1:00 pm
Location: the swamp

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby klompy » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:10 am

Great work Dude I thought Da Ram was good but this is amazing the detail you've gone to. 8) 8)
User avatar
klompy
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 396
Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 1:00 pm
Location: Rotorua

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby crazyclark31 » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:18 am

hell yes. this is some awsome work. very interested in your build
User avatar
crazyclark31
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 862
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 9:13 pm
Location: invercargill.

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:28 am

Thanks for all the compliments. It always starts out a bit slow the more that is posted the more people get interested.

There is a lot more to come.
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:33 am

Here is another pic of the intake showing the throttle linkage, this was also made. The thermostat housing was pretty tough to make as well. That took 40 hours, way too much blending on that one.


Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:38 am

chrome wrote:jeez mate you said it was a little over the top....
what else is on that bucket list of yours
awesome skills. im only a fabricator :oops: chop and weld style for me :mrgreen:



This is a bit off topic and it does pertain to Bucket List and fab work though.


This is another one of my ridiculous, impractical Bucket List Builds.

Stats:

1933 Willys Fiberglass body and I built the frame.



671 Littlefield setup for 1 to 1 ratio, 383 Chevy STROKER all the high dollar internals, 4L60E auto manual valve body beefed up to hold 1000 hp. 8 3/4 456 gears with a 4 bar suspension, Mustang II front, It has 800HP and is a beast.

Now for the Beast


Image


Image


Image


Image


Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:42 am

Kept this one separate. It is called a Watts link. It works great for this type of application because it keeps the rearend centered at all times. There is only 2 inches between the frame rails and the back tires. If I used a panhard bar it would have been way too short and would have been pushing the rearend from side to side during the suspension cycling.

It took me a while to get all the info to make this up. It is a few different ideas put into 1. I also have Mustang II front inner and outer wheel bearings and seal in it and a cap for the top to keep the dirt out and to adjust and grease.

As I said this was a bunch of different ideas put into 1 and sealing everything off was mine to add. They don't make anything like this. It is a real chore to get it all set up correctly. It works great.


Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:45 am

Just wanted to mention that Willys did make cars for awhile just incase you thought they only made Jeeps

Here is a rendering that was made before the build was started. This was done to give me a real time look at what the mods would look like. So, there wasn’t wasted time on something that looked bad.

This rendering has a pie chopped top and the dog house part of the front clip has been removed.

Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby SMOKEY » Sat Mar 17, 2012 10:38 am

Hi Tan Zuk and what to say but thanks ---- you are to much of a perfectionist --- but keep doing it, you can't be taught those skills you have to live them, feel them and be able to see around the corner. Both projects would fit right in here in NZ but a days wheeling and we would have that Zuk show pony knocked into shape :shock: . The Willy's is no stranger here in NZ, the Hot Rod boys and girls are on to them. Your Watts linkage is not new either although I have not seen it in the top mounted configuration before usually found on the back face of the diff banjo. Love your work and attention to detail 8) , keep posting,

WHAT DO YOU DO IN YOUR SPARE TIME,

FITZY.
User avatar
SMOKEY
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 951
Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 1:00 pm
Location: CHRISTCHURCH

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby tomsoffroad » Sat Mar 17, 2012 11:10 am

Wow :shock: :shock: :mrgreen:
User avatar
tomsoffroad
Flopsie
 
Posts: 2350
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 1:00 pm
Location: North Canterbury

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby pruggerdore » Sat Mar 17, 2012 11:52 am

yep second the wow. you spend a lot of time in your machine shop/shed. dont you like your misses :lol:
we try and keep our trucks lower than that in NZ as when actually taking them offroad the tall ones seem to fall over. we have hills and things. keep posting, amazing machine work
pruggerdore
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 585
Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:14 am
Location: hawkes bay

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:00 pm

pruggerdore wrote:yep second the wow. you spend a lot of time in your machine shop/shed. dont you like your misses :lol:
we try and keep our trucks lower than that in NZ as when actually taking them offroad the tall ones seem to fall over. we have hills and things. keep posting, amazing machine work



wow is an excellent description. Thanks

Only work a few hours a day on the build. Yes i actually do have some other activities that I do.

Retired now and single so don't really need to ask anyone what I can do any more. :D :D :D

It is very flat in Florida and the flopping over really won't be an issue. It is always wise to try and build your Rig for its environment and what its intended use is though.


Good Point :)
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:10 pm

Toy-Zuk Hybrid Steering Link

Here are the parts I used to attach the Zuk steering column to the FJ80 box.

Toyota 1980 4x4 Steering Slip Yoke Link

Zuk stock steering link

NOTE:

These pieces were shortened, machined the ends for a press fit then tig welded.

The reason I used the Toy slip yoke was to let the shaft be able to move under flex. I have seen other parts used I thought this would be a better solution. I have had a couple Toy 4x4 and the slip link worked well.



Image



Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:11 pm

Here is a comparison pic:

Without Front Bumper and Valance

With Front Bumper and Valance



Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Re: Zuk on 38's

Postby Tan Zuk » Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:12 pm

I have looked at a lot of build threads the past bunch of years. I haven’t seen anyone use this trick or they never showed it. This is what I do before I even think about spending any money or proceeding with any mods.

I hope this Helps out.

My build was starting with the 38’s. I needed to see if these were going to fit and what is going to need to be done to accomplish the entire mod.

The trick is making a 38” wood tire out of plywood. The next thing is to get it in the air enough to fit the wood tire. Once this is done you start making a plan of attack.

The plan was to move the front axle 4-5 inches forward and the back axle 3 inch to the rear. There was also going to be a stretched front frame that worked out to be 8 inches. I also wanted to cover the extension as much as possible with the bumper.

This was just the minimum plan of attack and was very subject to change.

Here are a couple of pics to give you an idea what I’m talking about.


1st pic is of the 38" wood tire. I got a lot of yea rite when some of my friends stopped by. They have all since changed their minds.

Image



2nd pic shows how to lay out the stretch. I used masking tape on the flair and marked the position with a marker. I used string taped on the mared position with a nut on the end to get my axle positions. I also found out that my jack stands were not nearly tall enough. If I remember rite I needed to go up about 7 more inches

Image



This was a cheap extension out of wood for the stands to fix my problem. It worked out well.

Image
User avatar
Tan Zuk
Hard Yaka
 
Posts: 113
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:29 am
Location: Florida, US

Next

Return to Projects / Mod's

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest