1985 yn60 surf 3RZ swap

[bigstu]

Hi all, This is my 1985 yn60 surf its my fifth surf and 3rd beam axle type.

[bigstu]

After owning my last surf a 1994 kzn130 I had forgotten how guttless these old surfs are the 3y also had a inlet manifold leak due to a sheared stud which didn't help, So when tintin decided to stick to the original 18r engine in his 81 hilux I couldn't pass up the chance to buy the 3rz he had intended to swap into it.
So I arranged freight for some beer and bourban from a trucking company my work uses alot and after waiting a couple of months for the right truck with the right load in the right place, mucking tintin around a couple of times in the process (sorry once again Quentin) it finally arrived





Along with the w56



While waiting for it to arrive I found a yn61 3ye efi tank which should help keep the swap tidy as Im wanting the lot looking like it was supposed to all be there as Mr Toyota intended, also got some surf diesel fuel lines as they are nice and big and a diesel clutch line as clutch for the old engine was on the drivers side and will now be on the passengers, The diesel line I'm using for the high pressure line I hope to get some proper flared fittings put on rather than hose shoved on with clamps.

[bigstu]

Out with the old



As you can see the firewall needs paint due to clutch leaking fluid



Ended up pulling steering column, brake booster, handbrake etc off gave firewall good cleanup with a wire cup and slapped a bit of paint on it.

The end result,by no means show car stuff but tidy all the same



Done a 50mm bodylift, Due to the large clutch and larger bellhousing doing up bellhousing to engine bolts can be impossible without one.


Then this arrived in the mail thanks to darren at NZAD its a 10 inch 2000lb heavy duty clutch kit that they also use for 1uz swaps so should handle the 3rz's 150hp.



Clutch Installed on 3rz and dropped in for a test fit they apparently bolt straight up to the 3y's mounts with the help of some spacers to stop the mount rubbers stretching but can be a bit close to the firewall.




Picture of said closeness to firewall try touches firewall




Maybe the other conversions on the net into RHD hilux's dont have factory extractors? The EGR pipe does nothing as this is an NZ new engine they never had the emission stuff the jap ones do, I will cut that off then flatten pipe and weld the end.
As you can see below the engine can be moved forward theres about 60mm there to play with


So heres where Im at now I very carefully cut the engine mounts off chassis and moved them forward 50mm tacked them on and dropped the engine back in, Heaps of room at the back but i'm not happy with the radiator clearance now, but with the 3y radiator being spaced back about 25mm from suport panel I can still be moved away from engine.




As you can see the space I now have to work with at the fan end now


easy fix though as I think the diesel radiators are flush with the front panel, so could get a diesel bracket swapped onto my radiator,

heres the gap here



So thats where Im at,

[bigstu]

Wow either no one gives a shit or maybe you's are trying to keep the thread clean of comments
Well for those that are interested up untill this week I hadn't really achieved bugger all I wasted so much time worrying about how I was going to cheaply and tidely setup spacers for the engine mounts, I cut some 10mm diamond shape ones to suit the shape of the mounts these would sandwich between the chassis and rubber mounts they just looked like shit,


Then I came up with the idea to have 2x 5mm bits of steel cut to the shape of the end of the steel engine mounts one would have standard size hole for the stud on rubber mount to go into

The next would have a hole drilled big enough for the washer and nut

These would then be welded together

With the plan to drill a big hole in the end of steel engine mounts on engine so nut and washer could fit down in there then weld my spacer setup to the end of that and try and blend them in together with the welder and grinder.

[Petemcc]

Looking good mate. People are reading. Keep it up.

I don't quite follow your engine mount mod but will wait and see haha. Im sure it will make sense all fitted together.

[bigstu]

Cool thanks Pete, Basically the plan was to drill the hole in the end of mount bracket on the engine the same size as the big hole on the spacer I made, then the spacer would be welded to the bracket this then would allow the rubber mounts to bolt up 10mm out further the two big hole drilled would all line up with the small one allowing the nut and washer for the rubber mount to be counter sunk into it, it had to be countersunk as the stud on the rubber mount isn't long enough, getting this far with the mount spacer idea I still had to drill the big hole in the two engine brackets had a bit of a stress about the consequences of stuffing the brackets for good, put it on hold for the next few weeks just last week I thought surely theres got to be a better way surely Ive over looked something, With having booked this week off work I said to myself #### it your going to find an answer and your going to get the bloody engine in there where its staying.

So back to google I go, it didnt take long either and joining a ozzy site that seemed to give google a bit more searching power?
and the answer is so simple If you have a y series toyota dont even waste your time with the original 3y chassis mounts cut them off and throw them away unless you want a rough setup, dont believe anyone that tells you the 3rz bolts straight in where 3y once was, In my opinion it was to close to firewall and then pissing around with spacers its not worth it when some hilux diesel mounts welded in look great,
once again the old diesel mounts have another motor they are perfect for so I found some I could pilfer for free so monday arvo went and cut them off, cleaned them up.

tuesday cut the 3y mounts off again binned them then reshaped and welded the Ln mounts in


As you can see theres that magic 10mm each side I was looking for
the Ln mounts have a larger flap at top that runs parallel/flat to the top of the chassis I just bent this down to give me the same height as the 3y mounts


Mounts welded at position to bring engine forward 40mm


Heres the engine all mounted in check out the lack of spacers way more tidy


and where its staying to

[Jafa]

nice and tidy
you wont regret the 3rz swap

[bigstu]

Thanks Jafa, on top of watching vids of your jalopy bouncing on the limiter I found these the other day they sure gave me some motorvation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YeFp_h6jVU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0CI6PRNdMs

Just hope it goes it sat at tintins for a couple of years and been 7 months here now.

Thanks Stu

[Mattman]

Nice looking swap. The 3rz is a big upgrade from the 3y!

Matt.

[bigstu]

Nice looking swap. The 3rz is a big upgrade from the 3y!

Matt.

Sure is should be quite nice to drive and the 3rz still looks like it belongs in there.

[bigstu]

I've got the diesel hard lines in for the efi and have done a 50mm fuel tank lift now that it has a bodylift I mite grab some photos tomorrow of the tank lift for those that dont know whats involved there,
I'll be attacking the wiring next few weeks, Want to have this thread fairly detailed to be not only visually pleasing but also educational, I'm learning alot as I go, I'm self tought, most of the ideas I get from hours of trolling through google and sites like this feeding of other peoples builds/experiences, I aint a mechanic or auto electrician but only a stuborn kiwi guy with bugger all money or tools that hates paying people to do stuff that I would rather have a crack at and learn how/figure out to do myself, The satisfaction is great seeing the finished results as small as they may appear, At the same time Im loving being able to share what I have learnt through this thread to anyone in the world that maybe stumbling upon it.

Anyway soppy rant over,
Im thinking I might mount the ECU on the passenger side under the crash pad on dash board, Theres a nice spot it fits up high away from risk of water,
can anybody think of any cons of mounting it there other than the access issue?

Thanks Stu

[Mehrts]

The factory ECU is located up high behind the glovebox in the 3RZ powered 98-05 Hiluxes. Probably the same for the diesel ones too.

Just a wee bit more info for ya

[3VILC]

You shouldn't have too much trouble bigstu, I've done a 4Y to 4Y-E conversion and the wiring wasnt really that hard, 3RZ is probably way easier to find wiring info on than 3Y-E too I had to work out the pinouts the hard way using the printing on the ECU circuit board, but strangely deep down under it all most toyota efi systems work exactly the same just the pinout differ between models and sometimes a few sensors are different.

Looks like a good project tho, 4Y to 4Y-E made a massive difference to how my truck drove, so 3Y to 3RZ would be insane

[J_Dub]

watching

[bigstu]

Anyone got a diamond shaped loom grommet they'd part with?
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... 15&t=36937

Thanks Stu

[crazyclark31]

hey man that a cool conversion your doing. Reckon is going to be cool when its done. Be keen to go on a mission when it done?

By the way it nicholes hubby
Mike

[bigstu]

hey man that a cool conversion your doing. Reckon is going to be cool when its done. Be keen to go on a mission when it done?

By the way it nicholes hubby
Mike

Hey Mike thanks, thought it might have been you,feel free to bust round sometime for a squiz, yup sure would be keen on a mission, plan is to join the landrover club to.
Scored a set of 33's for it yesterday near new white spokes, one brand new others have heaps of tread just have been run on farm on a standard hilux so fronts are cut up on out side edge of tread few splits in tread etc hopefully still wof/certable.

Thanks Stu

[bigstu]

Tank lift as promised.
This is a guide only, I take no responsibility in anyone one stuffing up etc atempt this at your own risk its pretty easy have a good look and see whats involved first before starting, measure twice cut once etc

Basically you can only do this with minimum of 50mm bodylift installed and this really only applies to 84-88 surfs/4runners as the hilux tanks are all ready in the higher position, why are the surf tanks 50mm lower you ask? because of the floor layout in the surfs having a rear seat the tank can't tuck up as far its very easy to do so long as you can operate a grinder a drill or welder the welder isn't necessary.

here goes,
I appologise for the fact I had done this before I thought of doing this and takin photos

Step 1
take your tank out
open fuel flap 3? screws around filler , get underneath truck theres two 12mm bolts up towards filler on the pipe down to tank undo these (unless you have lengthened the filler pipe when bodylift was done you will probably have these undone by now) undo the two or three small pipes to engine off tank or hardlines under truck,undo the three front and three rear tank gaurd bolts, undo the the three front bolts for tank,and three rear bolts for tank one of these doesn't have a captive nut on it so youl need a spanner as well I usually jam my knees under the tank to take weight off it once its all unbolted it should drop out throw it out of the way.

Step 2

Find this crossmember at the back of gearbox note right up on top the three holes that have no nuts, just below that halfway down the crossmember is a welded on bracket with three captive nuts on it (this was the front mount for the tank) notice how they line up perfect with the holes above the task now is to cut that bracket off in which ever manner you choose as to preserve the bulk of it and its nuts,
once cut off stick this up on top lined up with the three holes put your three bolts in tighten them up, at this point weld the cut off part in a couple of places to keep it there, this isnt 100% necessary as you can just have it loose and hold it there while you bolt the tank in, slap some paint on if you wish.



The desired end result
I have left a bit of the bracket so I can suport the front of tank on while doing up rear bolts


Step 3

Find the rear mount it hangs off the round crossmember above rear diff,
From the flat mounting surface measure up 50mm at both ends, draw a line then cut off give both bits a clean up,the cut off bit will now slide up the verticle face and the bottom tank mounting face will line up with the cut line, I had to cut out a small section in one of the ridges to get both bits to sit flush with each other and also drilled some holes across the face for some spot welds, you can now either weld or drill and bolt this in place

desired end result





step 4

You need to either buy a ute tank gaurd (as they are factory setup to suit what you have done so far) or adjust your one to suit the rear of it is left untouched as it just moves up with the tank but the front is two parts these are spot welded together all you have to do here is drill out these spotwelds, separate the to bits, then slide the two faces so the height is 50mm shorter
some triming may need done of any over hang respot weld, paint and you are done.

I haven't done this stage yet on this latest surf but have on my old one, so have no photos of the desired result but hers some photos of my gaurd as it is so you get the idea of what to do.




From here just reverse the removal steps the tank seam may need tweaked abit where it now meets the handbrake cable, then sit back and checkout the extra height you have.

If you have a hilux with a bodylift and deck lift or flat deck you could probably move yours higher than this point so bottom is flush or higher than bottom of chassis rails.

Thanks Stu

[Smurf]

I have done the tank lift on my Surf, almost the exact same way you have. It's very simple once you put your head under the truck and have a look.
Good mod for a reasonable amount of extra ground clearance.
Good write up.

[bigstu]

I have done the tank lift on my Surf, almost the exact same way you have. It's very simple once you put your head under the truck and have a look.
Good mod for a reasonable amount of extra ground clearance.
Good write up.

Thanks, nice easy mod the 1st one I done was back in 2007, I found the idea on a site from the US, lets say it was fairly ruff but worked, these trucks are still very popular and theres still a few getting modded slowly some of the threads/pics from the US seem to be disapearing so thought Id get this mod out there again,nice easy mods like this are great for building confidence, helps you get to know abit more of how your truck works learn your way round it etc learn skills to take on bigger challenges.

Thanks Stu

[bigstu]

Well it bloody goes it aint a $1000 paper weight yay,
Ive got heaps of photos of how I got to this point and will ad them at a later date with instructions on wiring, has a tiedown xmember at the mo till steve sorts me a low profile one you can see the motor give a big rock when it first fires because of this.


CLICK THE PIC TO VIEW THE VID



Thanks Stu

[tintin]

awesome

[bigstu]

Hi sorry Ive been a bit slack of late as you've seen I've done enough to get the truck going, brought new efi hose, top and bottom radiator hoses, new oils throughout, for the radiator it factory has for the bottom hose a steel u shape pipe and two rubber hoses under inlet manifold the engine never had this on when I got it so I had to improvise I found if you flip the top hose upside down it works for the bottom as well so truck now sports two top hoses to do the job.
I trimmed the fan down a wee bit but still fouls on shroud so wil run shroudless till I sort something.
Fuel lines I decided not to go flared fittings and just opted for flash blackwood fuel line clamps.



As for wiring I found someone who would part with the type of loom grommet I wanted as I never had one, got that installed and grommets in the old aircond holes.





I also guttered and sealed the old aircond unit





Ive also mounted a passenger side battery tray I got from a ln130

[bigstu]

As for the wiring It had been so long since I pulled old motor out I forgotten what the wires lying round on drivers side of engine bay were for.

but soon sussed them out again

black/red trace - coil + power engine on position (key)
big red black dashs st2 - coil ballast power on starter position (key)
small red black dashes - has power engine on position (key)
black revcounter signal wire from coil - rev counter (cluster)
black/ white trace? I think was the aircond wire? who cares
yellow/ green trace water temp sensor - temp gauge (cluster)
yellow/ black trace oil pressure sensor - oil gauge (cluster)
fat Black/white trace - starter trigger- st1 (key)
After hours of studying the minimal diagrams I have the 3rz diagram was american fairly detailed but the yn60 one was all i could find on line very basic (sure i could have just brought a book for the surf and a book for a rzn hilux, but wheres the challenge in that, plus it would've cost me about $140 stuff that) I realised they both have a similar base wire setup, the only major adition to the basic bits I've made is a wire soldered to the fusable link and to a fuse in the engine bay box you will see this later.

So from there I set about stripping the dash and pulled out all the heater ducting and the drivers side gaurd this allowed me to take all the tape of loom right back to cluster, ignition and inside fuse box.







This allowed me to pull all of those wires listed above back into cab with the exception of the oil pressure wire as thats the only one that needs to stay, the water temp will now come from the ECU.

From then on heres a picture of my new wiring setup I drew, my 6 year old could prob do better but it will give you an idea



Have lots more but that will do for now Im off to watch what looks to be the last hunting aoteroa for the year?

Thanks Stu

[bigstu]

From then on Ive basically followed the advise from this, Ive cut and pasted this from outerlimits as it is very handy.
also added a few extra aditions


Below is wiring that needs to be completed:


PLUG A (26 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
> PLUG B (16 pin) - Connect to Computer Untouched
>
> PLUG C (22 pin) - Connect to Computer - With the Following Additions
> (from
> the original body harness)
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> C1 Yellow +ve Constant 12V+ from a
> fused battery source - input from efi feed after fuse before efi relay
> C11 Pink & Black +ve Starter motor
> trigger ie. ign switch - input
> C12 Red & Blue +ve Supplied from EFI
> relay - input
> C14 Green & Yellow -ve Trigger for fuel
> pump relay - output
> 1x 4 pin relay efi 1x circuit opening relay fuel pump
>
> NON ESSENTIAL:
> C4 Green & White Connect to stop
> light switch - input
> C5 Violet & Green -ve Check engine light - (think mines pink)
> output
> C8 Red & White Tacho - output (had to solder a 10ohm resister to back of tacho so it would work)
> C9 Green & Orange Vehicle Speed Sensor - input ( i found my speedo has a 4 pulse reed switch on it so hooked up to that wouldve originally gone to your speeding ding ding thing)
> C13 Green & Black 4WD Switch - input
>
> PLUG D (13 pin) - Supply the following sources into the loom
>
> ESSENTIAL:
> D1 Top Row Red & Blue +ve Supply to
> airflow meter from EFI relay - input
> D2 Bottom Row Black & red +ve Supply to ignition
> coil from EFI relay - input (mine feeds off original black/red coil +12v)
> D6 Bottom Row Brown -ve Earthed to chassis -
> input
>
> PLUG E - Engine Diagnosis Port

[bigstu]

This is the setup Im using for efi fuse and relay it was from a electric fan set I had to replace an electric fan in a car



the relay will be mounted behind and above the stereo, I cut the short wire closest to the relay, made up a bracket for the fuse so I could mount it in the engine bay fuse box.



I then soldered the short wire to the fusable link so now have a factory replication of AM1 60A fuse, AM2 30A fuse and now the EFI 20A fuse



With the help of a soldered on extention the long wire now runs all the way back to the EFI relay where I crimped and soldered a new terminal for the EFI relay main feed at the same time I spliced two extra wires into the crimp
one will go to the ECU batt wire (yellow) getting constant 12v and the other to feed the circuit open relay for fuel pump, then to trigger the EFI relay I then found this wire which is the same wire that would trigger it if it was still in the 1998 hilux It comes from the IGN 7.5A fuse Its a black wire with yellow trace.



Then I soldered a wire to it which then runs to the relay trigger



from then that relay just has the 12v switched output which connects to the circuit opening relay for the fuel pump and the two Red with blue trace wires ECU on and EFI 12v feed, the relays last wire earth to the chassis.

For the fuel pump I got a circuit opening relay from a wrecker

[J_Dub]

Awesome tech
Bloody good info

[bigstu]

Awesome tech
Bloody good info

Thanks

[bigstu]

As for the circuit opening relay heres the post from twincam.org I found to wire that up

Just thought it would be beneficial to write up a quick thing about the Fuel Open Circuit Relay (FOC) for those who need to diagnose / repair etc...

Essentially it is 2 relays built into one, and its sole purpose is to control your fuel pump and have some intelligence built in so in the event of an accident, fuel isn't going to continually be pumped whilst the engine isn't running etc..

In the corollas, to get to the FOC you will have to remove the centre console and gain access to the ECU. In the ae82/92's there is a bracket which the FOC slides onto. In the ae101/ae111's they are located on the metal support that the centre console bolts into.

In the zze and later models, the ECU controls the fuel pump directly as they are returnless setups.

Here is a pic of the FOC





The FOC can be activated by 2 methods.

Earthed

The input from the FC pinout on your ECU in case of a map sensored car or the air flow meter for AFM cars, will provide an earth and activate power to the output wire.

12v Trigger Input

The starter / cranking wire will also trip the relay and activate power to the output wire.

If you don't have a FOC you can wire 2 relays in to operate your fuel pump.

Now into the actual pinouts.

Switched Earth (ecu/afm) - Green / Red (the 3rz ecu is green/yellow)
Switched 12v (starter) - Black / White
Output (Fuel Pump) - Blue / black
High Amp Input (Output of EFI relay) - Black / Red ( I ran mine of the EFI relay feed)
Non Switched Earth - White / Black

[BADNLO]

Mint project mate I'm doing the same conversion to my ln65 lux any info will be much appreciated