Building Te-Rino

[stovanovich]

Traversed the 42nd over the weekend with the lads. Was a mint day out. First time doing the track and absolutely dug it, starts off shiney but slowly gets a little bit more technical. Will be a fun one in the wet that's for sure.




Although towards the end of the track on a hill climb this happened




I now see what Lax2Wlg means by that bend in the 2WD inner tie rod being a weak point. Luckily my mate lives across the road from Smash Palace so it was off there on the trailer to grab some straighter ones so I could get the girl home to Auckland. Definitely going to invest in some of those Triple 5s now to see if it helps.

[stovanovich]

Not really a whole lot to report at the moment as I am off to Canada for a month in April so things on the truck front have been a little mellow however here's a short list of things that have been done since 42nd Traverse:

- Installed slight more suspension lift (2" as opposed to previous 1 - 1.5")
- Re-painted & undersealed bars

[stovanovich]

Back from overseas adventure and since I had some extra spending money left over I picked up a few things to turn my first weekend back into an "Attack the truck weekend"

Went to the wreckers and picked up the center console out of an R50 Terrano. It's a SUPER snug fit between the seats and you have to do the following to make it work:
- Move handbrake over 50mm to passenger side
- Cut space out of the console's side panels for where the seat belts clips come up
- There is also a bracket underneath the ashtray on the console which had to be removed.
- Get a drink to put in the CUP HOLDERS

Now the downside with this console is that the auto shifter in the R50 sits higher so if you plan on keeping your standard shifter (like I have temporarily) then you have do put a boot over it like I did or put up with the gaps. (if you are manual then it all works fine just make sure you get the manual center console).



Also replaced my front shocks as the left one was completely shot... Bush what bush?

Much better


Lastly, I finally got around to fitting this bash plate that had been sitting in my shed for eternity

[stovanovich]

Bunch of other work done over the last little while.

Replaced all the Tie Rods with the super tough Moog "Problem Solver" Tie rods, since I ordered these I figured it would be a good idea to grab one of their steering dampers as well. Now the whole system is feeling really good and no problems to report.

Did rear shocks at this time too, gave the whole steering & suspension a good once over tightening & greasing as I went.

Picked up a nice little rear work light to make going backwards on night runs that little bit easier (sick of relying on those candles Nissan call reverse lamps) for $25 you can't go wrong!


Finally gave the girl a good clean so she's ready for full servicing in a couple of weeks, no playing between now and then

[johnny262]

How did you mount the rear of your bash plate, fab your own bracket?

[stovanovich]

How did you mount the rear of your bash plate, fab your own bracket?

Just drilled and tapped some holes in the crossmember. Have since swapped back to the factory Bash Plate though as that alloy one is just do big & heavy for so little gain.

[miked21newbie]

So work has begun on sorting out this 2wd Steering Mod, if you've never read about it, this is what is required:

- 2wd Centrelink & Inner Tie Rods (D21 Navara, Datsun)
- 4wd Adjusters & Inner Tie Rods (WD21 Terrano / Pathfinder)

Firstly you need to remove the 4wd outer tie rods from your adjusters. These are no longer required in the new setup as your 4wd inner tie rods become the outers on the new system (if you don't know which is which, the 4wd inner tie rods are Left Hand Threaded, these are the ones you want to keep)

Now, the 2wd Inner Tie-Rods have an 18mm Right Hand thread so you will need to bore out the adjuster (right hand thread side) half way and re-tap. Thanks again to my mate at Kapoor Customs whom has all the toys to make this part easy:



I'll finish the write up on the rest of the job as I get around to doing it, but from here it should be relatively straight forward for anyone

i found this info the most straight foward and easy use out of all the steering mod jargon around.....cheers! just did ths mod myself and have another truck im gonna pinch the steering box out of to delete the idler arm and brace.

i also have a set of those avm hubs, one thing i can say is watch those silly little torx bolts, i ended up snapping a torx fitting in the end of one of the bolts as they were all seized solid..... i had to drill and easy out every last bolt to get them off haha, maybe pull them out and clean/grease every now and then or change them to an allen key cap screw tye?

[stovanovich]

i found this info the most straight foward and easy use out of all the steering mod jargon around.....cheers! just did ths mod myself and have another truck im gonna pinch the steering box out of to delete the idler arm and brace.

i also have a set of those avm hubs, one thing i can say is watch those silly little torx bolts, i ended up snapping a torx fitting in the end of one of the bolts as they were all seized solid..... i had to drill and easy out every last bolt to get them off haha, maybe pull them out and clean/grease every now and then or change them to an allen key cap screw tye?

You're welcome Yeah there's a lot of jargon on this forum about it but not really a simplified breakdown of what is required. I tell ya what though the Moog Tie Rods are the business, if you haven't used them already definitely look into them when you need to replace!

I know what you mean about those AVM hubs and the little torx bolts... They drive me mad (Especially when full of mud!), actually on the hunt for some other screw types at the moment.

[mudslug88]

Hey i got some manual hubs for my terrano off trademe, were $285 for a pair. They use cap screws to bolt on and are simple and solid construction. Force is the brand i think and have 27 or 28 spline.

Chur
Josh

[stovanovich]

Hey i got some manual hubs for my terrano off trademe, were $285 for a pair. They use cap screws to bolt on and are simple and solid construction. Force is the brand i think and have 27 or 28 spline.

Chur
Josh

Cheers mate good to know if I never need to replace the whole things but for now really just looking for ways to make the torx bolts better & less susceptible to seizing up and or rounded off.

[stovanovich]

Productive day (first one in a while) spent the day repairing a CV boot, removing my ball bar in preparation for the winch bar I'm building with http://www.dirtlab.co.nz in a couple of weeks and finally started to run the hosing for my on board air tank.

[miked21newbie]

Hey i got some manual hubs for my terrano off trademe, were $285 for a pair. They use cap screws to bolt on and are simple and solid construction. Force is the brand i think and have 27 or 28 spline.

Chur
Josh

Cheers mate good to know if I never need to replace the whole things but for now really just looking for ways to make the torx bolts better & less susceptible to seizing up and or rounded off.

hey man, went to steelmasters (local bolt type place) they laughed when i showed them the torx bolts, if ya ever need to replace them i went to the local arb suppliers (union car spares whangarei) and they supplied me a service kit with all 12 bolts and gaskets for 77 bucks.

[lax2wlg]

No offence to the guy at the fastener shop but Its ignorant to laugh at torx bolts, they are a universally used fastener. Theres nothing wrong with them. If these guys had ever worked on any Jeep product they would know this.
The design of torx heads actually allows for a higher amount of tightening or twisting force, ie torque, to be exerted on the fastener compared to an allen bolt without damaging the head of the fastener.

They are also much easier on tools, which is one of the reasons Jeep uses them, ie cost.

Truck is looking great by the way.

[stovanovich]

No offence to the guy at the fastener shop but Its ignorant to laugh at torx bolts, they are a universally used fastener. Theres nothing wrong with them. If these guys had ever worked on any Jeep product they would know this.
The design of torx heads actually allows for a higher amount of tightening or twisting force, ie torque, to be exerted on the fastener compared to an allen bolt without damaging the head of the fastener.

They are also much easier on tools, which is one of the reasons Jeep uses them, ie cost.

Truck is looking great by the way

Cheers Lax, If I hadn't put in all this work already I'd be grabbing that one of yours from ya
Yeah don't see why fastener shop guys laughed at the torx bolts, I've actually had run ins before with generic fastener shops when asking for a bolt that isn't a standard thread & M8-12. Go to the guys that actually make their own and you get way better luck

[smurf182]

I have found the guys at Anzor to be really helpful even with small orders. A lot of the big nut and bolt places are construction industry focused and unless you're buying 500 dynabolts they have no interest in helping you.

I went in to a place once and asked if they had any 12x1.25mm hardware - guy looks at me like I just arrived from outer space and says he's never heard of a 1.25mm LONG bolt before..

Facepalm

[stovanovich]

Not much to update except fitting some 33 x 10.5 BFG KM2s. Came on -44 rims so might have to change those out for -22 so they tuck up a bit nicer. Anybody got some rims they wanna swap

[stovanovich]

Began building my winch bar (with some help from http://www.dirtlab.co.nz)
We got as far as getting the winch & plate mounted up but the tubing side of things will have to wait for another day. In order to drive her home, we simply cut the bumper and re-attached the ends. Should do for now.

[stovanovich]

Toyed around with this mod the last couple of weeks, works bloody well actually, my auto came to life! No more sloppy shifting
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=42547&hilit=Jatco

Only downsides I've noticed so far are:

1) Driveline shock, if you have your hand throttle out a bit on a cold morning whilst warming up the truck & put it into drive it jumps or Snaps into gear really hard which can't be good for the driveline. After a day or 2 of driving you've learnt to avoid it though so no major here just keep it in your mind. Shifts between gears when actually driving are sharper but smooth enough to not cause driveline shock.

2) On decel, between 30-40 Km/h it pulses as if thinking of changing down then changing it's mind. Almost like putting foot on your clutch then letting it go is the best way to describe it. (as mentioned it the thread I linked, a way to avoid this is leaving OD on whilst decelerating or changing down to 2nd manually). Might have to look at my TPS as it sounds like that's linked too (will report back)

[stovanovich]

Finishing off the winch bar has been the job of late (thanks to Dirt Lab), pretty happy with the end result, now to head out for the weekend and give it a good testing.

[fh2014]

looking good man

[stovanovich]

Gave the bar a good test over the weekend, the tyres also did a great job, far better than the old Kumhos

[fh2014]

you running those33s on the -44 offset still? hows the rub

[stovanovich]

Actually not terrible, I trimmed a wee bit more off the guards to be safe and just get a little bit of rubbing at full flex. Glad I went the 33 x 10.5 route, as the height makes so much difference but without the problems that width brings.

[lax2wlg]

F**k yeah she's looking awesome bro. IMO those BFGs perform exceptionally well in everything except snow. And they're road friendly so it's the ultimate dual purpose. Definitely agree re; width, there were a bunch of Jeep guys in the US rallying to BFG to make a 35x10.5 KM, which would be insanely cool, but like the 33x9.5, there wasn't sufficent demand to justify. Well worth the money IMO.

Get an R200 front diff in there next, then you can install a 4 pin LSD from a Navara rear end. Add more clutches and it will continue to distribute torque to both wheels even when you are 3 wheeling.

How is the truck going in terms of gearing? IIRC the diesel autos have 4.6 gears from the factory? So probably pretty good. 4.88s are always an easy option for a bit more crawl control, or take it to the next level and get some 4:1 transfer gears from 4x4parts.com. That would give you a crawl ratio of about 100:1. The latest update for my long travel idea is to use Hummvee lower control arms, which by all research are approx 2 inches longer and have an offset provision for a coil spring.

Thanks for the update. Man, I miss my Pathy. I think about it every day.

[stovanovich]

Cheers mate yeah 4.6 ratio in the diffs with the tight rear LSD. R200 diff, cvs and knuckles definitely next on the cards though, bolts straight in right or do I need the drop bushes?

[fh2014]

my current terrano is a factory auto HG48, which leads me to believe the diff ratio may have been buyer option. auto aircon and LSD rear.

because i have until now never seen an auto with 4.875s. 1995 model, however.

TC locked is 2500rpm at 100kph w 31's

Think you need the drop bushes to fit the r200 as it binds on the sump.

Lax I recon a 35x10.5 would have too much sidewall movement, unless you went to a 17"rim or something.

yea im that guy at parties

[stovanovich]

Think you need the drop bushes to fit the r200 as it binds on the sump.

Lax I recon a 35x10.5 would have too much sidewall movement, unless you went to a 17"rim or something.

Hmm, bugger about the drop bushes. Damn shame they're so expensive to get shipped over from 4x4parts. Lax, where did you get yours?

35 x 10.5 do exist already but the problem is they are only in Simex or Silverstone and I don't wanna go that route as enjoy driving multitude of terrains. We used to run a 34 x 9.5 swamper on our old FJ40 bush truck, they were really cool extreme mud tyres. Getting something like that in a All rounder like BFG would be wonderful

[stovanovich]

Just another thought on the diff Drop, I wonder if you got one out of a post 94 diesel surely that would all bolt up correctly without any sump issues?

[poss682]

Hi there

Yes you can fit a post 93 WD21 Diesel front diff (R180) witch has the 5 bold design CVs & knuckles , witch are exactly the same as the V6 ones just R180 and Not R200 diff

so no diff drop required but then it is slightly smaller diff... not by much

cheers Pete

[fh2014]

Yea you can fit the 180 old or new no worries but I don't think the 200, didn't lax have to drop his to get c200 lsd in ?


Also are you swapping that hitachi ht12 turbo out for the garret tb25? Let's know how that goes as my research has shown that the turbos aren't much different at all. Both .48s and journal bearing. Hopefully the garrett flows better or moves more air