Postby MihiT » Sat Mar 14, 2015 8:31 pm
A bit of a blow-by-blow picture diary of running the wiring for alarm and central locking.
1) Remove door cards - generally, one screw behind the handle, two in the arm rest, one in the ash tray, then there's the clip that holds the window winder. The rest are pop-off connectors around the perimeter.
2) Find the lock actuating rod, some run horizontally, in this Saf, they run vertically.
3) Line up where you want the motor to go, on the inside of the door skin, make sure that the window can still open and close without contacting it. Once you've got the alignment right, hold the motor against the side you can see and mark where your holes are going to go.
4) Drill 'em. Then screw through the skin into the motor fixing holes.
5) Line up the motor actuator rod next to the door lock actuating rod. Unlock the door and fully extend the motor. Clamp the rods together.
6) Make sure it functions correctly and that there's still nothing that will catch on the window.
7) Run your wires. If you're like me, you wont be happy with a few crappy wires kicking around your footwell and then running up the door card. Also, if you're running low loss OFC for your speakers (and you should) you dont want that being crushed by your door.
- Pop the gromets/glands/bungs that have the OEM wiring going through them. If there is no OEM wiring, there is usually still rubber bungs in the door and body.
If you need it watertight - drill the bung slightly smaller than your cable bundle. If not - you can cut an X with a sharp knife and push the wiring through.
If it's OEM, chances are that all the wiring you're adding will not fit throgh the original rubber hose.
If you need it water tight you'll want to find some glue-filled heat shrink tubing big enough to accomodate your bundle. don't fit it yet.
Feed the wiring out of the cab, through that bung, through your heatshrink (about 10", if you're using it - don't shrink it yet) through the door bung, then pull it through until it reaches the motor. - Be wary of pulling it while it's running through exposed steel holes, it helps to push-pull to get it where it needs to be.
Whether it's watertight or not, it's still a good idea to have a drip-loop inside the door - simply make sure the wire runs lower than the lowest connection then form a bight and cable tie it.
Jiggle the wiring until it's in place and not under tension, and not in the way of the window mechanism. line up approximately where your bungs and wires are going to be.
Pull the wiring half-out between the body and the door, now you know where it's going, you can shrink your tubing if you're using it, or wrap it up in tape if you're not - extend the tape an inch or two past the bungs.
Push the bungs back into place, connect the bullet connectors to the motor, connect the speaker connector to the speaker. Cable tie any wiring you need to to the door skin.
Inside the cab is a bundle of laughs and there's no generic routing. You can try to follow OEM wiring if you like, but keep in mind that they fitted the wiring loom before any of that plastic stuff was in the way.
For the Saf. and this particular central locking control unit, the wiring from the master (drivers) motor only reached to the steering column, so that's where it's going. (I can't be arsed soldering anything today)
Again, making sure it's not going to get stuck in anything that moves (pedals, heater controls, steering column) I ran the wiring over the steering column, over the central air duct, behind the passenger side air duct and down on the other side. Again. position in loosely first, and once you're sure it reaches everything, cable tie it.
The speaker wiring for my passenger side door runs underneath the glove box, rather than with the central locking.
8.) That's basically it, connect red to red (constant 12v not ACC) and black to black and you have central locking.
I also have a grey and white which are triggered by the alarm.
The Alarm:
1) Find somewhere for it. I have an all-in-one Uniden which fits under the fuel filter bracket.
Ones with central units and seperate speakers, immobiliser relays etc, you want to DISMANTLE your dash to hide the CPU. If they have a "hush" button (I don't think they do anymore) I don't connect em
2) Run the wiring. For an alarm you want to spend a bit more time on this - where possible open up OEM cable sheaths and run it through them - out of the way of thieves side cutters
I wont go into so much detail here, suffice to say that mine's not coming out in a hurry.
3) The door-open sensor taps into the interior light, The central lock triggers go to the wires on that unit, the little flashing light goes wherever you want it in the cab. It is supposed to be a visual deterrent, so many people put it up high, close to the steering wheel or in the windscreen
4) The indicator flashers: Depending on your alarm set up:
if it injects 12v into the circuit, just splice into the indicator wiring somewhere between the control stick and relay box.
if it only has a trigger, you need to wire a standard relay into your hazard flashers, or a flashing relay (indicator relay) into your parking light circuit.
4a) The horn chirper, if your unit does not have it's own siren, a flasher relay on the horn circuit.
5) Immobiliser circuits/relays. There's not many to choose from.
ACC to ECU (AFTER thre ignition switch so that ripping the wires out and twisting them together still wont work); the existing starter relay trigger (can still be bypassed with a flying hot lead); fuel pump; igniter module; fuel cut solenoid (diesel)
6) You can add a relay to drop out the tail lights - if your car is stolen at night, the thieves wont know they're out and if they're seen by the cops or *555d it's game over fairly smartly. (might not work in Northland, the number of cars I see with one headlight, tail light, broken lenses...)
That's about it. Some pics. more to come.
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Attachments
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- bit of rust in passenger side speaker mounts. I'll hit it with acid and etch.
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- Hey look, a 24-12v reducer, which has no grounding wire it was (obviously) running the radio but is supposed to also run lights and clock. neither working. And my multimeter skills ran out, but it seems the harness in isn't getting the volts in needs.
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- hard to see, but it looks almost OEM!
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- Not-quite waterproof, but budled in tape.
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- Wiring threaded through car, bungs and door and spaced as needed.
- 1990 LWB Safari flatdeck, TD42 -
- 1988 LWB 7-seat Safari, TD42 -
1989 LWB 5-Seat parts hack. TD42