Hi all
The beast just failed a WOF (not a surprise in itself) with excessive play in the L/H front wheel bearings.
I changed the bearings ok, but..... I still have "play" It looks like the swivel housing is loose.
Swivel housing roller bearings? worn swivel pins?
The R/H side has no play.
Yes I did drain and refill the diff and swivel housing
What do you reckon? right track?
Rat
Loose front wheel
- tomsoffroad
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- mike
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I'm guessing that the rangies are similar to the series LR ones.
I've done a few of these. Usually you can get away with replacing only the "raiko" bush on the top pin. But if they are anything like my old landrover ones then the pin is not round anymore. I machined and sleeved mine. Make sure they are the original diameter otherwise the replacement bushes are no good. The wiggle can come from worn bush/pin or the pin not correctly shimmed. The bearing is a taper roller bearing sitting in the bottom which is adjusted by shimming the pin at the top. To loose and you get wiggle, to tight and you get stiff steering. No wiggle is acceptable here.
Mike
I've done a few of these. Usually you can get away with replacing only the "raiko" bush on the top pin. But if they are anything like my old landrover ones then the pin is not round anymore. I machined and sleeved mine. Make sure they are the original diameter otherwise the replacement bushes are no good. The wiggle can come from worn bush/pin or the pin not correctly shimmed. The bearing is a taper roller bearing sitting in the bottom which is adjusted by shimming the pin at the top. To loose and you get wiggle, to tight and you get stiff steering. No wiggle is acceptable here.
Mike
Cheers Mike
As the play is only around 2-4mm at the swivel (looks a lot more when you have 35's to lever it!!!!!!) am I correct in thinking I can reduce or get rid of the play by removing some shims from the top pin? Making sure the swivel pre-load stays in limits.
Plus - can I do this job without pulling the whole lot off the axle housing? (it looks like I can but.....)
Rat
As the play is only around 2-4mm at the swivel (looks a lot more when you have 35's to lever it!!!!!!) am I correct in thinking I can reduce or get rid of the play by removing some shims from the top pin? Making sure the swivel pre-load stays in limits.
Plus - can I do this job without pulling the whole lot off the axle housing? (it looks like I can but.....)
Rat
- mike
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Hi Rat,
If it is shimmed incorrectly then removing some of the shims will fix it but if it is already in the swivel pre loads then removing shims will only stiffen the steering by binding between the end of the pin and pulling on the bearing with the slop still remaining between the sides of the pin and the bush. If you remove your steering arms and the swivel is relatively free then possibly removing shims will do Check the pin when you take it out for concentricity and feel the bush inside, you will feel if there is wear inside it. If the movement is in the bottom then shimming will fix it,
otherwise it's pull the shaft, drop the bottome pin, remove back seal take swivel off, bash out raiko bush with long bolt/punch, press new one in, assemble bottom bearing and shim for loading, grease back seal, drive shat etc. 1 hour job with the right sized hammers
Mike
If it is shimmed incorrectly then removing some of the shims will fix it but if it is already in the swivel pre loads then removing shims will only stiffen the steering by binding between the end of the pin and pulling on the bearing with the slop still remaining between the sides of the pin and the bush. If you remove your steering arms and the swivel is relatively free then possibly removing shims will do Check the pin when you take it out for concentricity and feel the bush inside, you will feel if there is wear inside it. If the movement is in the bottom then shimming will fix it,
otherwise it's pull the shaft, drop the bottome pin, remove back seal take swivel off, bash out raiko bush with long bolt/punch, press new one in, assemble bottom bearing and shim for loading, grease back seal, drive shat etc. 1 hour job with the right sized hammers
Mike
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