1KZ-TE

[sabre_01]

Finally got hold of an engine (intercooled) to transplant in my LN106 . Once I got it home and talked to a few people found it has TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and is not cable operated. Is this going to be a problem or can it be modified. It is out of a KZN185. Also it is a front sump model, does anyone know if the KZN130 rear sump will bolt on? It is also a manual if this helps. I want to put my gear driven transfer case on the back for two reasons.
1- The KZN185 front drive shaft is on the wrong side for my LN106
2- I will need to run my transmission brake because of my disc braked rear end.

Will the R151 gearbox accept the same adaptor that is used in other chain driven to gear driven transfer case swaps?

[andrew007]

hi,
have done this conversion already.the easy way is to put a manaul deisel pump on it,no computer or sensors to fail when wet.throttle cable goes to pump,just like the 2.8 motor.remove stepper motor on manifold & plate.your welcome to come around & have a look at mine if you want.
cheers andy

[sabre_01]

Thanks Andy that would be great. Whats your ph number and the best time to get hold of you. If you don't want to put your number up then give me a ring on 0276711836. Thanks Carl
Does anyone know the bolt pattern on the back of the R151 in the KZN185 is the same any other R series box. (Transfer case has front drive shaft on passenger side) Hopfully thats the only difference.

[LOLYF]

Thanks Andy that would be great. Whats your ph number and the best time to get hold of you. If you don't want to put your number up then give me a ring on 0276711836. Thanks Carl
Does anyone know the bolt pattern on the back of the R151 in the KZN185 is the same any other R series box. (Transfer case has front drive shaft on passenger side) Hopfully thats the only difference.

The bolt pattern is the same, but there are internal differences. I havn't done it my self but a mate has. its some thing to do with the bearing sizes being different.
My mate machined a adapter to make the different size bearing work.

[jocko]

Hi. I'm doing the same project at the moment. Fitting a 1kz-te into an LN65 double cab. It was a manual and came from a KZN 185. I brought the engine and gearbox. We ended up getting a R151 and transfer from a LN130 surf and using the bell housing that came from my engine and the clutch fork from the LN130. Mine was a front sump to so got a rear sump from a KZN130 and that bolted straight on and is spot on for the solid diff.
With this setup we started by bolting the motor and box in place with the crossmember that belongs to the LN65 then moving the engine mounts to suit which was back around 60mm. with this engine and box set up the rear 2piece drive shaft bolted straight back in and the front drive shaft bolted straight back in too but the yoke on the gearbox end was to small. The bolt pattern on the R151 is slightly bigger so just inlarged all 4 holes by 1mm and it bolted on. Quick fix for now till i get a driveshaft made up. Also the gearsticks are in the same place so they line up with the hole in the hilux floor.
Once the engine was in my bonnet closes and my truck is not body lifted. My engine is not intercooled though.
I used a pump off a 2lt with the boost compensator on it and had it set up by the deisel pump people to suit the bigger engine. this costs around $1000. We then monted a verticle throttle linkage onto the pump and manifold to suit the LN65 throttle cable. This was a bit of mucking around but not to much drama. I used front pipe from the turbo down off the KZN exhaust and it fited past the chassis beside the bell housing and all we had to do was put a slight kink in it to get past the gearbox crossmember and welded it straight onto my existing exhaust.
I was advised by the deisel pump people that once the pump was set up for my engine that performance and economy should be similar to the efi system and also some people spoke of problems with the 1kz efi system such as water and mud getting in plugs etc and causing issues and fuel shut off valves and map sensors etc packing up and being expensive to fix. Aparently it costs around $500 to wire the surf computer in to run the engine but most that i have heard of were from a KZN130 and there are a lot of differences between them and the KZN 185 so not sure how you will get on??? If you wanted to go that way and only have the engine i have the wiring loom and computer off the KZN185 if you want it...
Other things we had to do, Make up a new high pressure hose for the engine end of the power steering pipe and wire in the alternator cos the LN65 has an external regulator. With converting the engine to manual pump wiring all the engine electrics up was childs play.
The truck isn't finished yet, We are just sorting out the radiator cos with the standard radiator there is not enough room to run a viscous hub and fan.

[sabre_01]

Thanks Jocko, You have cleared up a lot questions that I won,t have to post up now. After making a template of the end of my gearbox where you unbolt the transfer case and going to a few wreckers, found that it matched all the R-series boxes that I tried it on. So all I have to do now is buy the adaptor to mount my gear driven transfer in place of the chain one. (about $800- $900 ouch ) Like you have done I have decided to go with a manual pump but will use a aftermarket one instead of 2LT pump. Still about $1000 but would cost close to that for the wiring of computer because of the TPS set I have, and it will be easier to adjust boost if I need plus no problems with water and dirt like you said, can't see any real negitives at this stage to running manual pump. Did you make new engine mounts or cut the old ones off and move back? Thanks to all who have supplied info on this swap. Keep it coming as any little tricks or problems that I can sort before hand will only make the job quicker and easier. I will try and take photos and record info on my swap when I start and maybe post a whole thread on the swap to help others who are going to do it as it seems to be coming quite a popular conversion.

[mudbugga]

About the injector pump - DSl, here in chch, modifies the kz pump to become a manual type.
Can't remember how much (prob similar $$) to do but worth a crack trying them for a price etc.
Also 1 thing that we've found out is the fuel line from the tank is smaller on the 2l etc and when using the kz motor there can be a fuel supply issue. Overcome by fitting a larger hose.
Hope this helps.

[jocko]

No worries. We just cut off the old mounts and moved them back, but you dont have to be to fussy with cutting them off tidy cos the mounts on the 1KZ are alot wider and you will end up with the base plate nearly out to the chassis if you know what i mean... The only issue i'v had so far is that how we set up the engine to use the LN65 driveshafts and have the gearlevers fit neatly through the hole in the floor means that there is not enough room to run the viscous hub and fan (which i really wanted to do) because there is not enough room between engine and radiator. We needed about 20mm more gap. So i will be running an electric fan:( I'v ordered a new 48mm thick alloy radiator (and same dimentions as large hilux deisel radiator) so hopefully i can keep it cool with a well set up electric fan... My lower coolant inlet on the motor is quite close to the bracket for the diffhead torque rod on the chassis but we think it will be ok.
Thanx for the tip on the fuel line, I'l check that out.

[CORROLUX]

Thanks Jocko, You have cleared up a lot questions that I won,t have to post up now. After making a template of the end of my gearbox where you unbolt the transfer case and going to a few wreckers, found that it matched all the R-series boxes that I tried it on. So all I have to do now is buy the adaptor to mount my gear driven transfer in place of the chain one. (about $800- $900 ouch ) Like you have done I have decided to go with a manual pump but will use a aftermarket one instead of 2LT pump. Still about $1000 but would cost close to that for the wiring of computer because of the TPS set I have, and it will be easier to adjust boost if I need plus no problems with water and dirt like you said, can't see any real negitives at this stage to running manual pump. Did you make new engine mounts or cut the old ones off and move back? Thanks to all who have supplied info on this swap. Keep it coming as any little tricks or problems that I can sort before hand will only make the job quicker and easier. I will try and take photos and record info on my swap when I start and maybe post a whole thread on the swap to help others who are going to do it as it seems to be coming quite a popular conversion.

hi I've had some troubles and hav been reading various posts to see what others do with these boxes, maybe someone can help me or praps u or someone may now know to lookout for wot's happened 2 me

I have a 91 jap doublecab running a 3l motor and am currently in the throes of replacing it's g52 which died with an r151-

so far the main trouble is that the ln130 gear idler type transfer case won't slide onto the r151 main gearbox output shaft-
I reckon it's 1 or both of the following:

#1 - i've tried to count the splines and i think i may have 3 less splines on the main box output shaft (fairly sure it's 23 splines) than the tube stuck onto the transfer box input shaft on the front of the t box. I counted 26 internal splines on the t box tube, but its got 2 "radially opposite" places where they skipped a tooth, leaving a gap and just now i can't recall whethter 26 included the 2 "missing" teeth or not.
The bolting together part of it looks like it'l be all good and there'l be about 20 or 25mm space between the shafts when the 2 boxes finally bolt up.

#2 - i think the tube on the transfer box has too small an inside diameter - it measures 28.2mm (on a good set of verniers) in the troughs of the internal spline. i measured the main box output spline at 32mm but this in not super acuurate cos i used finger gymnastics with a small piece of paper and blackened oily fingers to make a "tracing" to measure from.

It could all be because the r151 i got might've had a chain t case (which i reeealy don't want within a mile of my truck) and now the ln130 idler t case shaft setup is different? Praps the r151 may be off some variant other than ln 130 and that's wots wrong.

Mark at Lineside Automotive (where i bought it) is looking into it for me while i info hunt of my own accord, they have been being very helpful about the whole thing and i've found them good over the years so i reckon we'll get it sorted soon enuf, meantime have you had any trouble of this sort if not, watch for it it's sorta put the brakes on me for now cheers anyhow - yours - Tamati

[LOLYF]

Can i ask what you think is wrong with the chain drive transfer cases?

[CORROLUX]

[quote="LOLYF"]Can i ask what you think is wrong with the chain drive transfer cases?[/quo

I just reckon theres too many components in them that i think are vulnerable to failure and therefore cost (chain, palnetary gears, electric actuating mechanism to name some) whereas the idler gear type has just bearings and gears that i think would mean they're tougher (cos i normally prepare myself for "worst case scenarios" such as prolonged bumpy climbs in low range where i'd assume there would be lots of tourque and risk of something getting fairly hot) and simpler to fix or replace, but that's only my own opinion i saw someone saying the chain ones' ratios can be handyer for some gearing applications which'd make it better 4 wotever they do with their truck
just a matter of opinion i guess + i'm a bit old school when it comes to stuff like that

[LOLYF]

Fair enough

I hear a lot of talk about them being weak but in reality i know of people running them behind hard driven 400+ horsepower supercharged V8's with no problems.
I think most of the weak talk is rumours that came from the states when the chain drives first came out, I put it down to the yanks being scared of new technology