Offroad-Express

Hey all, ive got a standard carby 3y and am not made of money so an engine conversion is out of the picture, im going to work with the engine I have because they are pretty bulletproof and there will be no need for certs etc...

My plan is to get a weber carb, get my dad to port the head, get a reground cam and the pacemaker headers with a 2 1/4" exhaust all the way through with a coby and no cat. The problem is, that I really want to fit some 33's onto my truck but of course the standard 3y would be too bloody gutless, so if any one out there could give me a rough estimate of how much of a hp gain ill achieve with these mods and if it would be a good idea to run 33's with it or not, would be much appreciated. Any other mods/ideas are most welcome too.

Cheers

you need to focus on the torque figures more than the hp with all your machining work, don't get your expectations up too much its a heavy truck with a tiny donk even if you can get a 50% increase it'll still be a lot of work for relatively low performance, if you've got the skills and/or resources to do the machining and upgrades and work to the 3y you'd also have the skills to pick up a cheap carby 3.5 rover v8 that nobody wants anymore and sling that in there and you'll get the hp/torque increases you need, a better sounding truck and probably end up with better fuel economy even an old series 1 commy motor would be an easy and cheep swap

Cheers for that derk,

I was considering a carby rover v8 since (like you said) they are cheap, sound good and all the rest but theres the problems like having to change the gearbox since my truck only has the alloy casing model, and then the bellhousing,mounts etc, then a bigger radiator and different exhaust setup and then theres the cert after all this, its my daily and I don't think I could take my truck off the road for a period of time since I have to get to work and so do my parents. I see where you're coming from, maybe even a future project? but for now ill stick to the shitter of a 3y.

I have seen on other trucks they do respond well to a weber carb and some fine tuning

Surely though with all you mentioned that would cost $1500?
Exhaust alone would be $700?

They go good on 33s, I've had 1, the only time I needed more power was hill climbs when I needed control over the pedal, ie: when you want to climb without momentum, and button off a bit when required then have enough juice to power on again, it would hold power fine but as soon as you button off you couldn't power up again without dumping the clutch

Cheers mate,

Yeh im most likely going to put each part on individually over a space of time, obviously ill get the head done at the same time I put the cam in, but for now ill buy the weber then save up a bit, do the exhaust then the head and cam a little while after. So your truck went well on 33's with the standard 3y or with the weber? Also, I worked out a rough estimate of how much it would cost to put a rover v8 in it and it came to roundabout 3g+?

Yep good with standard 3y no mods to motor

Think out side the square before you start...for example the nissan thing to do was to replace the head completely with a more modern design...an example the Rb30e 12 valve single cam VL commodore engine with the later twin cam 24valve head. Being from the same family of engines no cert was required....
I have even seen a Rb30 with a twin cam head and triple down draft webers from a holden torana.

What series of engines are in the same family as the yours, what others were used in the same platform as yours... 18R G factory engine from a celica which came with race tuned heads by yamaha for rally racing....... perhaps from the later hilux a 22r or 3rz which in factory spec will produce more grunt from the get go then a modded y series? also more capacity...

where else were these engine's used..for example the diahatsu rocky or the same engine from a diahatsu delta which was tuned from factory to produce more torque.

just an idea, if your going to go to the trouble of working an engine, start with the best base platform available.

Thanks for the ideas crash, something to definitely think about, I think ill have to do a bit more research and go from there..

The 3Y motor will have the weaker G series box so will never be capable of handling much power if you look to swap the motor.

Enjoy the 3Y, you don't necessarily need 33s to go out 4wding. A set of 31s will still give you good clearance.

Cheapest mod I did to my 3l hilux (2.8 non turbo diesel) was auto lockers front and rear.

Cost a little over $300 an axle from lokka.com plus fitting and its off road capabilities were dramatically improved.

I have also have a 2 inch suspension lift, extractors and a 2½ inch exhaust exiting in front of the rear passenger wheel with free flow muffler, still run 31's

Too true mattman, im keen to stick to the 3y and yeh she doesnt do too bad with the 31's that are on it atm. Thats a pretty cheap way of increasing the offroad capabilities of ya vehicle nzlux, will have to look into that.

When it comes to off roading full on power is not critical.
From the factory the gearing as been set to get the most from the vehicle.
You only seem to want more horse power to turn your anticipated 33's, which over gears the vehicle from standard.

The way around that is to change diff ratios or transfer case ratios to bring it back inline to what it was to start with.
Would probably be cheaper as well.

Or run two sets of tyres. 31" for on road and bigger for offroad. My 3y trailer queen runs 35" tyres and handles them ok. It never gets out of low box though. Learn to drive a fairly standard truck well and develop your driving skills, then when you start to get the fruit on your truck you will out drive everyone else. The best setup offroader driven poorly will still get stuck.

Its a good little motor for what it is. I had a 4Y, chucked EFI on it, made it a lot nicer to drive but not a huge deal more power, a weber is probably the best bet and was my plan B. Went lots of places on 31s no problem tho
I do vaguely remember stumbling across something along the lines of R series heads on Y series blocks (in the oldschool celica era) but dont think it was a particularly easy task like swapping a head from the same family. Im running an SJ head on a 1.6 Swift block for example, near bolt on. And of course the now famous nissan RB30E block with a 25DET or even 26DETT head is also near bolt on.

Interesting comments there fellas, cheers. Ive been doing a bit of talking round and my mate can give me all the 2 1/4" pipe for free and also weld it up, my dad can skin the head and also knows a guy who can regrind my cam for me, so I think its gonna be a bit cheaper than what I thought, another friend of mine also has a set of 33's near new that he will sell to me bloody cheap and I have a set of steel rims to chuck them on, I have teo choices.. 1#Sell the other set of rims and tyres, have permanent 33's and possibly change the gearing in my diffs? Or 2# just keep the 31's and have the 33's as another set. Im going for a 2" body lift too, any suggestions on if the 31's would look silly with this? Cheers for all the input.

Heaps of us run two sets of wheels and tyres.

Embrace the roller skate look of ya lifted truck running the stock wheels