Diffs 80 or Saf?

[drive it ...]

So I'm on 3rd set of radius arm bushes in 5 yrs, lost count of brakes n bearings n seals maintained. E locker hasn't been most trouble free unit in the world either. Getting a bit over everything beneath my chassis. But I pretty much rate everything else about my prado as perfect for my needs. An axle upgrade I previously discounted as far too extreme, is starting to look , well, less silly anyway.
So per title - would you go 80 series or safari ? Pro's n cons? Don't have fab skills so will be paying someone for the work so easiest conversion is a big factor.

And if anyone was thinking of a project with prado diffs..... Hilux stubs and asin hubs, auto locker front. Trail gear and nitro 4.88 R&P. Fresh E locker motor out of a 79 series cruiser. New rear rotors. Might influence my decision if I had those gone already.

Will change my mind again by the morning but still interested in your thoughts.

[mudtroll]

Depends what your doing with it, patrol diffs are way stronger than 80's, seen plenty of 80's fail.

[wjw]

Give Nathan @ Kaipoi repowers and call and Rick @ Summit 4wd, both will have an opinion and could do the work.

[drive it ...]

Its Rick's bad influence that's behind this, he's been telling me to swap diffs instead of fix it for years.

[Clint]

Both! That was my conclusion anyway. Ratios & width are the same.

80 in the back mainly due to offset diff to keep driveshaft angles reasonable on my SWB. With a LWB wagon it would be a harder choice as the Saf stuff is probably much cheaper. 80 Housing is trussed from factory, full floater vs Nissan semi floater so should be a bit stronger but people don't break either very often I don't think, has a handbrake (not a great handbrake but the Nissan uses a driveline one so nothing on the axle) I just used all the std 80 series links too, work great compared with the std Prado setup, real stable off-camber & heaps more traction on bumpy hillclimbs.

In the front the 80 only has an 8" R&P - which are a known weak point - so the 9" Nissan job is a better pick. Std 80 CV's are probably stronger but cro-moly's can solve that issue (still on my list along with a front locker) The Nissan knuckles are also a better design - steering arms are all integrated rather than the bolt-on Toyota setup that gives problems I think. 80 series front arms have an eye at the chassis end which is better than the pin on the Saf but you can mod your around that easily enough.

Check out my build thread from about p5 http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2123 for more detail. It's not a 5 minute job but I'm really liking mine. The extra width & better suspension setup are really nice offroad & being able to set up all the angles properly means it handles better on road too.



Cheers
Clint

[mudlva]

exactly as Clint said
im running that combo

std rear vx with arb
trussed front y60 with cm cvs and axles plus 4wdbit top end hubs.

pretty much beat the crap out of them with no issues at present.
just remember that jumping will brake every thing so with that thought on board a vx rear and y60 front works a treat.

just be aware of the y60 rear arm to chassis issue that im trying to resolve now. if starting from scratch i think a 5 link would of been all round easier with a lot less maintenance that im doing

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46330

or just rod end the rear of the arm. have to check for road legal tho as mines purely a bushy so lvvta dont count