Offroad-Express

Hi there, just seeking some advice on redrilling perches to move front diff toward to clear 35s? What's everything I'll need for this job?

Cheers!

Hi I looked at this post and thought ------ this could be good for the sole and have a laugh then as I was looking it came to me that we need more of this as it got the old brain working :- first it was in the Toyota section, second the authors name is MattIn106 now this took a bit longer ---- doesn't the Hi Lux have a In106 code, now I'm not a Hi Lux guru and I haven't done any research but has the In106 got a beam axle ------ I will assume (now assumption is the mother of all F/ups) that it has. Now I'm not poking it at you Matt but lets see if we can keep this going and get some answers for you.

Now I haven't done one myself and It probably has been covered in ORE, try a search. First off, remove front springs, check center bolt diameter (thread end) get a drill bit use a drill press and drill new hole using plenty of coolant If you have a tungsten bit all the better. Now that's the easy bit, the steering rod and top of diff torque rod will need to be lengthened, I will leave it there for the Hi Lux team to add to. Do a search for Rears Up Front ----- could be the better option.

DO IT ONCE DO IT RIGHT,

FITZY.

CLOSE FITZY BUT YOU MIGHT BE GETTING SENILE IN YOUR OLD AGE
The torque rod and steering rod need shortened not lengthened but yes do it once do it right. Remember cutting and welding steering parts are a legal no no so seek advice. Off the shelf parts are available for this conversion. I run 35's on my Hilux 106 but did it on the cheap, it's for the farm. Start on the passenger side, there is already an extra hole in the spring perch. Measure that exactly ( I think it's 30mm forward) and drill the other side to match. The bump stops that sit on top of the spring under the U bolts now no longer line up with the centre bolt of the springs but the rubber can be redrilled. (Call me SMOKEY)

You will need a driveshaft spacer. It will steer like shit on the road if you don't get it right. I used the factory springs as I don't want a lift but still needed a 50mm body lift to clear the firewall.

Cross over steering would solve steering rod shortening issue., 130 surf/78 prado/ 80 series box 70 series tie rod and drag link.
You can get a bracket to bolt onto chassis to take 130 box if needed.
Minimal cost for everything.

SMOKEY wrote:Hi I looked at this post and thought ------ this could be good for the sole and have a laugh then as I was looking it came to me that we need more of this as it got the old brain working :- first it was in the Toyota section, second the authors name is MattIn106 now this took a bit longer ---- doesn't the Hi Lux have a In106 code, now I'm not a Hi Lux guru and I haven't done any research but has the In106 got a beam axle ------ I will assume (now assumption is the mother of all F/ups) that it has. Now I'm not poking it at you Matt but lets see if we can keep this going and get some answers for you.

Now I haven't done one myself and It probably has been covered in ORE, try a search. First off, remove front springs, check center bolt diameter (thread end) get a drill bit use a drill press and drill new hole using plenty of coolant If you have a tungsten bit all the better. Now that's the easy bit, the steering rod and top of diff torque rod will need to be lengthened, I will leave it there for the Hi Lux team to add to. Do a search for Rears Up Front ----- could be the better option.

DO IT ONCE DO IT RIGHT,

FITZY.

Haha my bad! I'm new to this forum stuff. Yes I have a 1994 ln106 Hulux solid beam with a 5L turbo. Running 35s with a 6 inch lift. LSD front and rear, iron man shocks, winch, iron man bull bar. Done all the modifications my self. So know my way around a truck . I know how to do most of the job. Just wanting the finer details. Yeah I figured redrill front 1 perch to the same as the extra hole on one side. Wanted to know if I could run a auto surf front drive shaft as they are longer. I'm looking at resetting front springs and adding a leaf to a bit more height.

Mattln106 wrote:

SMOKEY wrote:Hi I looked at this post and thought ------ this could be good for the sole and have a laugh then as I was looking it came to me that we need more of this as it got the old brain working :- first it was in the Toyota section, second the authors name is MattIn106 now this took a bit longer ---- doesn't the Hi Lux have a In106 code, now I'm not a Hi Lux guru and I haven't done any research but has the In106 got a beam axle ------ I will assume (now assumption is the mother of all F/ups) that it has. Now I'm not poking it at you Matt but lets see if we can keep this going and get some answers for you.

Now I haven't done one myself and It probably has been covered in ORE, try a search. First off, remove front springs, check center bolt diameter (thread end) get a drill bit use a drill press and drill new hole using plenty of coolant If you have a tungsten bit all the better. Now that's the easy bit, the steering rod and top of diff torque rod will need to be lengthened, I will leave it there for the Hi Lux team to add to. Do a search for Rears Up Front ----- could be the better option.

DO IT ONCE DO IT RIGHT,

FITZY.

Haha my bad! I'm new to this forum stuff. Yes I have a 1994 ln106 Hulux solid beam with a 5L turbo. Running 35s with a 6 inch lift. LSD front and rear, iron man shocks, winch, iron man bull bar. Done all the modifications my self. So know my way around a truck . I know how to do most of the job. Just wanting the finer details. Yeah I figured redrill front 1 perch to the same as the extra hole on one side. Wanted to know if I could run a auto surf front drive shaft as they are longer. I'm looking at resetting front springs and adding a leaf to a bit more height.

Your best bet will be a ruf conversion and crossover steering

The ruf and drop crossmember will get the caster back in spec and crossover steering means you can toss the torque rod in the bin and get heaps more articulation

Auto drive shaft will work but the short slip yoke can be an issue

Why do you want to go higher? Will tha 6 inch lift your suspension will probably already be stiff as buggery and resetting and adding for an extra leaf will just make it firmer.

I assume you want to move the axle forward to stop the 35s from rubbing?

As said above. That's a huge lift. You have obviously spent a bit of cash on your after market gear so probably don't want to hear what I'm gona say..

Hiluxs don't need 35s generally but if you wish to fit 35s there's only one way to do it and that's doing the rears up front conversion...

I've run a Hilux on 33s with no lift and only very minor rubbing on the fire wall. Zero rubbing in the rear.

The reason I say hiluxs don't need 35s is, with 33s they can more than hold their own and remain stable and don't break many parts if you drive them right... Adding 35s and all that lift in my opinion can makes it less reliable and less user friendly...

My 2 cents

I'm all for the 35s if you want them. And as much as I like rears up front and crossover you can make 35s fit just fine without it if you move the axle and have a body lift or even better trim the guards and smash the shit out of the wheel arch. If you need a Cert anyway then go rears up front. If you already have a cert ten move the axle forward trim the guards and try to get it lower and more
Flexy!

And get lockers and a big motor and duals and coilovers and an exo and two winches and 37s then 40s..... it never ends

Petemcc wrote: you can make 35s fit just fine, have a body lift, trim the guards and smash the shit out of the wheel arch

yep, I've had 35s on a ln60 surf, so same front end as ln106, standard height springs, 2" body lift, cut guards 4"s higher and used a bfh on the rear of the arches, no rubbing on body, only on springs.

Petemcc wrote:And get lockers and a big motor and duals and coilovers and an exo and two winches and 37s then 40s..... it never ends

oh the joys of 4wding.

After spending a lot on a fully rebuilt 5L Turbo I wasnt to keen on emptying my wallet even more at this stage, and wanted to take the cheaper option of moving the front diff. But I dont want to build a pile of shit, so going to do the RUF conversion. I have a set of rears laying around anyway..

And its not 6 yet, Still contemplating body lift.. have it sitting there ready to go in. Its got 2inch Dobi leaf springs with extended shackles.

Cheers for the help, defiantly gave me a few things to think about.

So you've got 35's and a 6 inch lift really means you've got a 2 inch lift - those 35's must be shredded!!!

NJV6 wrote:So you've got 35's and a 6 inch lift really means you've got a 2 inch lift - those 35's must be shredded!!!

Still in build phase and still working things out, hence why I'm going for the RUF conversion. Do not many people run 35s on here? lol

Those rims won't be helping the rubbing. The bigger the negative offset the further the rims are going to arc around to hit on back of arches.

How do you get a wof with them sticking out like that?

mudsurfv6 wrote:Those rims won't be helping the rubbing. The bigger the negative offset the further the rims are going to arc around to hit on back of arches.

How do you get a wof with them sticking out like that?

Havnt been for a wof, have only finished building it. It will need certing anyway.

Picked up these 35s on rims for cheap, just used to set up truck as I was building. Wanting to run Simexs or treps
on a smaller offset rim

If you are still to go for a cert you will probably want to do RUF and cross over now as you will certainly want to do it at some stage and no point getting a cert more than once.

It is better but you don't HAVE to do it.

Moving the axle forward and trimming the guards/body should get the 35's fitting. Best not to do the body lift if you can avoid it. There is no point to raising you center of gravity just to clear the tyres from the guards when you can trim them.

Your rims and tyres will be fine but you would be better on 15x8s as you are more likely to pop a tyre off a bead with the 10 inch rims.

I would say to look at my build thread however photo bucked has fucked that up and I haven't got round to doing anything about it.