Hi,
Got the motor and auto trans out of the truck, do a swap from man to auto, looks like crank seals and or trans front seal is leaking, how easy is it to do the crank seals.
Cheers
Tim
Mitsi V3000 Crank Seals Easy or Hard to Do ??
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Re: Mitsi V3000 Crank Seals Easy or Hard to Do ??
Most seals are pretty easy if time and patience are used liberally. It takes a shit load more time and cash to fix a garked crank than patiently remove a stubborn seal.
Its been a few years but I have done a fair few - ex grease monkey.
On the way out:
Check how deep the seal is seated before attacking it. Eye ball is fine, just a reference point.
Be very careful not to scratch the crank surface when removing the old one. That will kill a new seal in short order when run.
Check for a wear groove in the crank surface where the old seal was running. If it has one you can get lucky and have room in the housing to seat the new seal a nats further back onto a virgin surface.
If not, and its a bad groove then it may be crank out time but thats not common. Major lack of oil changes and age can cause rock hard seals - which can groove cams and cranks.
Reason enough to change oil as per the book.
On the way in:
Make sure the parts guy gave you the right seal.
Put a wipe of oil on the inside sealing surface of the new seal to ensure it doesnt stick to the crank, in case the motor sits for awhile. A ripped new seal will rip your nighty.
Keep the outside dry or use shellac. Most mechanics have their own opinions there.
Tap it it evenly and patiently.
See if looks like a nice clean version of the old one.
Celebrate the money you just saved.
By the by - shellac is the go on frost plugs inside and out too. Cheap security and takes 5 minutes.
I worked for Ford so did loads of them on Falcons. Heaps of crap that kept a young man in beer!
Its been a few years but I have done a fair few - ex grease monkey.
On the way out:
Check how deep the seal is seated before attacking it. Eye ball is fine, just a reference point.
Be very careful not to scratch the crank surface when removing the old one. That will kill a new seal in short order when run.
Check for a wear groove in the crank surface where the old seal was running. If it has one you can get lucky and have room in the housing to seat the new seal a nats further back onto a virgin surface.
If not, and its a bad groove then it may be crank out time but thats not common. Major lack of oil changes and age can cause rock hard seals - which can groove cams and cranks.
Reason enough to change oil as per the book.
On the way in:
Make sure the parts guy gave you the right seal.
Put a wipe of oil on the inside sealing surface of the new seal to ensure it doesnt stick to the crank, in case the motor sits for awhile. A ripped new seal will rip your nighty.
Keep the outside dry or use shellac. Most mechanics have their own opinions there.
Tap it it evenly and patiently.
See if looks like a nice clean version of the old one.
Celebrate the money you just saved.
By the by - shellac is the go on frost plugs inside and out too. Cheap security and takes 5 minutes.
I worked for Ford so did loads of them on Falcons. Heaps of crap that kept a young man in beer!
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