QD32 Still having issues

[3VILC]

So, still having issues getting this bloody QD32 to run properly.
Started stuttering sometimes under light load but most noticeable at high load or pulling up hills. Feels like its fuel starving, but very intermittent, will cut out for a few secs then pull again and so on.
No fault codes, data-logging up a hill near my house almost all the signals fluctuate up or down at the same point so nothing points to any specific sensor. Throttle position stays constant.
Replaced diesel filter today, double clamped the one hose I had suspected may be sucking air, no change. Replaced AFM no change. When priming fuel with the primer pump after releasing the button theres a very faint sound that I can only liken to pipes that vibrate under a hose when you turn the tap off, and can be felt through the fuel hoses at the filter..is this normal or is something stuffed like the actual primer? All other hoses and connections have been checked and are tight.
Definitely feels like a fuel or air sucking issue but I'm lost and getting frustrated at having to keep spending more trying to get it to run lol.
Do the ETI pumps still have the little gauge filter in the pump inlet? Havnt checked this yet

[Crash bandicoot]

Bypass the fuel filter, diaphram seal may have perished = not uncommn. If all sensors fluctuate check all earths , ecu also takes an earth from engine intake manifold( 10mm bolt by no3 runner.

[Crash bandicoot]

May have guaze in banjo bolt, mine didnt

[3VILC]

All the readings change, but not that would really indicate a dodgy earth (inputs/outputs not related directly to engine output are fine coolant temp, throttle position, volts, fuel temp etc). Theres 3 bolts there on mine, 2 are for the ecu and sensors the other is the main chassis earth, all tight.
Have read about the primer itself being a problem, but dumb question if I bypass the filter how would I prime fuel back up to test? It never seems to firm right up like I remember on my safari you would pump it and it would get so hard you couldn't press it anymore.
No such problem on the old engine it would struggle up hills with the trailer on but nothing that I would deem hugely un-normal. But then pumping the hell out of the primer to fill a completely empty system might've been enough to finish it off if it was on its way out

[3VILC]

I'll just jump onto the laptop and upload this basic screenshot of the log print with the basic data showing.
The first half of the plot is the constant pull uphill from a stop, you can clearly see where the power is cutting in and out, not sure if this indicates a fuel/air sucking problem or not or where else to start looking.

[Crash bandicoot]

problem solved, and yeah they should push up hard, so if yours isnt, may pay to get another ready.

but gravity fed from a bottle usually works.

[3VILC]

Haha, I take it they are fairly interchangeable? I'm using the ZD one which has slightly bigger pipes (I thought this may be the problem, as the inlet pipe on the QD manifold is smaller than the hose a fraction, but double clamped it with screw up clamps didn't help). Might have to have a scavenge at pickapart in the morning before work.
Although taking a 2nd look at the graph, it seems maybe a little too rhythmic to be just fuel starving or sucking air?
I will admit that in changing the AFM plug from the 5pin to 4pin type I made a booboo, but as far as I could tell would've only damaged the afm if anything not the ecu, hence why I changed the afm but still reads exactly the same as before so reluctant to think that would be the cause..if only I had a spare ETI ecu laying around lol

[Crash bandicoot]

Haha, I take it they are fairly interchangeable? I'm using the ZD one which has slightly bigger pipes (I thought this may be the problem, as the inlet pipe on the QD manifold is smaller than the hose a fraction, but double clamped it with screw up clamps didn't help). Might have to have a scavenge at pickapart in the morning before work.
Although taking a 2nd look at the graph, it seems maybe a little too rhythmic to be just fuel starving or sucking air?
I will admit that in changing the AFM plug from the 5pin to 4pin type I made a booboo, but as far as I could tell would've only damaged the afm if anything not the ecu, hence why I changed the afm but still reads exactly the same as before so reluctant to think that would be the cause..if only I had a spare ETI ecu laying around lol

unforutunately , when i sold my eti pump to the wrecker as part trade they wanted the "matched" ecu to go with it,

it's not uncommon in nissan engine mods to swap AFM's from 5 to 4, even 3, with the earlier skylines when using the later pink sticker afm from the VQ30de etc. SO yea, no issue there, but if you have doubts about fuel supply sort that first before F'n around with the electronics again.

if i read that picture right the TPS was only at .5 volts with ya foot on the gas....... ment to read .5 at idle.

i do have the spare TPS if ya need it.

[3VILC]

Oh no that's only at the current selected graph point which happens to be the start (not moving) in that screenshot
The readings at the high point of the graph are about 3.1 to 3.9 except where foot isn't on the gas of course

[3VILC]

I thought only the later ZD/YD pumps were 'matched' to the ECU? Since those pumps have a separate pump control ECU on the pump itself, whereas the ETI pumps its all in the main ECU with a ton more wires to each sensor and solenoid on the pump

[Crash bandicoot]

Oh no that's only at the current selected graph point which happens to be the start (not moving) in that screenshot
The readings at the high point of the graph are about 3.1 to 3.9 except where foot isn't on the gas of course

you got a boost guage on it?
was foot flat to floor just before hesitation...

and was the newly installed MAf from/came with the same QD32? just wondering if it's going to full load on the maf to early and cutting fuel

[3VILC]

This is what I was wondering too.. but yes it is the correct afm for a QD32, the original one was the one that came with the engine and the spare one I got on Friday was from a primera (exact same AFM, used in TD27/QD32/VG33/SR20). The rewiring was merely to convert the 5pin ZD loom to the 4pin plug for the QD afm to plug into (technically Id call it 3pin since they only use 3 of the 4 haha). AFM at idle is about 2.3v as shown it that pic, which I thought was too high, but the VG and ZD manuals list 2.2v at idle as the specs, TD is only 1.7 but that makes sense bigger engine sucks more air in.
Unless I have stuffed something in the ECU which is causing it to go haywire under load.
It does also do it sometimes under a lighter load too but a lot less noticeable, but isn't there when cold, havnt tried flooring it to the redline when cold to see if it cuts out for obvious reasons.
No load in neutral it will quite happily free rev to the redline.
No idea what the boost specs for these are, but max is 11psi and holds there fine without fluctuating by any appreciable amount when the engine hesitates. Think that would be about right for these engines

[Crash bandicoot]

This is what I was wondering too.. but yes it is the correct afm for a QD32, the original one was the one that came with the engine and the spare one I got on Friday was from a primera (exact same AFM, used in TD27/QD32/VG33/SR20). The rewiring was merely to convert the 5pin ZD loom to the 4pin plug for the QD afm to plug into (technically Id call it 3pin since they only use 3 of the 4 haha). AFM at idle is about 2.3v as shown it that pic, which I thought was too high, but the VG and ZD manuals list 2.2v at idle as the specs, TD is only 1.7 but that makes sense bigger engine sucks more air in.
Unless I have stuffed something in the ECU which is causing it to go haywire under load.
It does also do it sometimes under a lighter load too but a lot less noticeable, but isn't there when cold, havnt tried flooring it to the redline when cold to see if it cuts out for obvious reasons.
No load in neutral it will quite happily free rev to the redline.
No idea what the boost specs for these are, but max is 11psi and holds there fine without fluctuating by any appreciable amount when the engine hesitates. Think that would be about right for these engines

IFit doesn't do it when cold it will probably be a fuel issue whether it be sucking air or computer issue, ecu will close off the spill valve when cold to increase fuel pressure untill warm.
the last of the mechanical TD/QD run a second solenoid very similar to that of the fuel stop solenoid to close of the spill valve when cold start switch is used to get the same effect.

[Crash bandicoot]

also try it with the A/C on, same principle, ecu should close spill valve to pick up the engine load.

[3VILC]

I would if the a/c was hooked up
Consult doesn't pick up any a/c on or a/c relay triggers so that's yet another wire to find that must be different haha which hasn't been high on the priority list yet.
I did notice on this one the cold start switch is automatically disabled in gear so cant test that either..on the ZD it used to work no mater what gear it was in.
Its going to drive me to pulling my hair out haha. Might have to plug the laptop into my mates QD32, that will at least give me some 'correct' readings to go off since there no real manual for the 32ETI.
..Just went out and tried it now, primer gets firm after a few pumps

[3VILC]

Out of interest, I unplugged the AFM and drove it to work today, no check engine light, and it actually seems to run better, a bit sluggish and lazy on the gears since the gearbox also has no engine load signal, but no hesitation and will pull right to the redline. Weird. I assume being diesel the ECU can run Tps only in limp mode so it behaves much like a mechanical diesel. No smoke, egts seem ok.
Guess that may mean I've poked the AFM circuit in the ecu. Since changing the sensor did nothing

[UBZ]

Holy Grave Dig

This old archive just saved me a auto rebuild .

R50 QD32 Eti Auto
New Pump
New fuel filter .

Auto was not changing down when Accelerating from a cruise . Normally present when trying to overtake on a passing lane ie 100km accel up to pass.

engine would limit rev @ between 3-3200rpm
Power light would illuminate
Have to get off the gas and fall back behind slow tourists

Plugged in the laptop , no faults , all meters / switches / relays operating as expected . ECU was cutting fuel when limiter presented itself

Engine would rev fine when parked in the driveway with no limiter .

She’s an old girl , low kms 150 , but been beaten on a little. So some faults expected . Gearbox was the suspect , checked all the plugs , fluid looked all good , snake oil helped a little .
Was about the pull the auto , found this thread

Changed the AFM to a junker in the draw ….

Problem gone , thanks guys you are fecking awesome .