PTO shear pins

[mudtroll]

I keep breaking the rear PTO shear pin on my safari, seems to be a common occurance as a couple of mates do the same. i tried a bolt in it & mates same result. not sure what tensile strenght the bolts were but am reluctant to put in a heavy duty bolt as I'd rather replace a pin than a drive or main shaft. saw a shaft that had spun on the spline last week.
anybody got any suggestions?

[meatc]

If you are breaking them when you are well stuck then try a snatch block. Half the load on everthing. May slow things down but still quicker than trying to replace the pin while still stuck.

[mudtroll]

Used a block to half the load in the weekend still did pin on 2 trucks?!

Another slightly annoying problem that someone may be able to help with: when put in free winch drum has'd to be rocked back & forth so it will release. have had hub off twice everything seems to work fine & once drum free is very easy to pull cable out

[DaveM]

All the PTO winches I know of need to be rocked before they unlock

[coxsy]

may have to muchslop in the pin holes did on mine shaft hole worn too

[mudtroll]

Thought about that coxsy seems like a snug fit. just seems strange that they always break on the rear pins, pain in the arse when you have to grovel around in mud to replace them.
couple of weeks ago all 3 nissans did the same thing & had to suffer a hilux with an electric winch pulling us out, still gettig shit about that!

[DaveM]

You are better off putting a bolt in the rear, and only running the shear pin in the front for easier access.

[coxsy]

mine breaks the front pin, last time it did it pulling up a metre and half step first pull was single line the pin sheared because the diff head was hard againest a big lump of earth changed the pin double line easy pull up

[coxsy]

my front pins before rework

[mudtroll]

You are better off putting a bolt in the rear, and only running the shear pin in the front for easier access.

I did have a bolt in the rear but not a high tensle one, thought I'd leave the weaker? shear pin at the front which should break first.
I guess a better question would have been what grade/strenght bolt do I use?

[Sticks]

I heard you could just use 4" nails in the front instead of a shear pin, easier to fit

Not sure if it's the greatest plan though...

[tgaguy1]

I heard you could just use 4" nails in the front instead of a shear pin, easier to fit

Not sure if it's the greatest plan though...

Nails are for Toyota winches. They have a smaller hole that suits the nail.

I have found that running a grade 8.8 M8 bolt in the rear and a Grade 4.6 M8 bolt in the front successful. Since going to this combination I have not sheered the rear bolt. I also made sure that the holes in the shaft and the universals were an excellent fit to the bolt. Just having minimal play will exasperate the problem. Also the fit of the universal onto the shaft must be a good fit. Tight like tiger is good. Don't under estimate the potential for the front diff to become a dozer blade either. Sometimes having a damn strong winch can make us lasy with our recovery rigging.

[mudtroll]

Nails are for Toyota winches. They have a smaller hole that suits the nail.

I have found that running a grade 8.8 M8 bolt in the rear and a Grade 4.6 M8 bolt in the front successful. Since going to this combination I have not sheered the rear bolt. I also made sure that the holes in the shaft and the universals were an excellent fit to the bolt. Just having minimal play will exasperate the problem. Also the fit of the universal onto the shaft must be a good fit. Tight like tiger is good. Don't under estimate the potential for the front diff to become a dozer blade either. Sometimes having a damn strong winch can make us lasy with our recovery rigging.[/quote]


Thanks for that, had a 4.8 M8 bolt in rear, will go up in strenght in the rear. Still a bit worried about damage to shafts etc so will leave a nissan shear pin to the front.Shafts to universal & pin holes all seem tight so hopefully this will solve the problem.
Your right,seems easier to do a straight pull rather than doubling up with a block.

[MaccaOz]

A mate & I are looking at getting rid of the shear pins out of our setups totally. We're looking at putting a torque limiting clutch "in-line" with the driveshaft.

We were originally looking at a ball detent clutch, but the AUD$600+ price tag scared me a bit.. So, we're back looking at fibre plate clutches - we just need to work out how to enclose them so they don't get full of crud.

[bobrocket]

If your after a PTO shear pin, the part number is N3377101J00, Henderson Nissan $25, if you want the split pin its a different part N0092121510 $0.70,

[coxsy]

used my winch this weekend broke a pine log moving the truck up hill, also winch a few logs off the track via pulley block great fun

[wisard2]

For many years over in Auss I used concrete nails on all my PTO winches. They will break, but under a lot higher load than the standard shear pins.

Just use the size concrete nail that fit snugly in the hole, then bend the end just enough over to stop it falling out (I used a hammer).

As I said, I used concrete nails for 18 years on several different brands of PTO winches including Toyota and Thomas, and never had a problem with the winches, or shafts.

[Sticks]

M8 50mm galvanised bolts for the rear, M4 50mm zinc plated ones for the front from Bunnings @ around 50c each. They work a treat, easily pulled my mates saf out of the mud and are easy to fit.

I carry a bunch of them with me in case they shear off.