Shane wrote:local chch shop has been doing a few also(not just TD42)he says its when they changed to summer fuel that the problems started.
I had a seal kit fitted to my spare pump and fitted that last week.nice we job that is
Shane
Yep - I guess that's about when mine started leaking. I buy road tax in 5,000km lots, do the oil filters, and give the engine a good check over, and it wasn't leaking at last service in about August.
As far as fitting the pump goes, I put a thread on Patrol4x4 com looking for some "how to" tips, as the Haynes manual is poorly written and jumps all over the place, but there was some server crash there, and the thread disappeared.
Some things not included in the Haynes manual:
Remove the lower plastic fan shroud for better access to timing cover plate bolts, and crank pulley nut. If turning the motor via crank pulley nut, you need a large (42mm?) socket. If it's a 5 spd, if you chock the wheels, jack a rear wheel, put it in 5th, then you can turn the motor that way, but you're going to do a bit of running back and forth.
Undo PS pump, remove belt, and push it out of the way so you can see what you're doing, You're still going to need a good but small work light.
Don't sweat the #1 cylinder TDC compression vs exhaust stroke too much. Line up the timing marks on the crank pulley and timing case, with timing cover plate removed, wipe the drive gears clean, and look for the "z" alignment marks. If they aren't aligned, then you're at TDC #1 exhaust, so just rotate the engine 360 deg and look again. The pump rotates once per two engine rotations.
Removing the drive gear with a puller isn't fun. You can't see what you're doing, so just close your eyes and go by feel. Try to resist the temptation to pull the radiator out so you can see. There's two threaded holes in the drive gear that look like they're there to use bolts to crack the gear out as per hubs etc, but I don't know if that's really why they're there, and something expensive might break if that's not what they're for.
The woodruff key on the pump drive shaft is at about 11 O'clock position when the engine is at TDC as above, so despite some fear, even if it's loose it's very unlikely to just fall out and drop down the timing case when you pull the gear off. The key was slightly loose in the new shaft I had fitted - that's more of a worry as getting the gear back in/aligned is very fiddly. I used a sharp centre-punch on the side of the key until it fit the slot nice and tight.
The gears are helical cut, so aligning the "z"s when reinstalling is even trickier than it sounds, as not only do you need to be sure that the pump shaft is rotated to the right position so the slot in the gear goes over the key, but you've got to do this taking in to account that the gear is going to rotate a little bit as it meshes, and your hands are going to be in the way of seeing what you're doing.
You need to remove injector lines at the injectors as well as the pump, as well as brackets so they can be shifted out of the way of the pump. Torque settings for the injector flare nuts are in the Haynes manual. Now you could use a crowsfoot adapter to torque these nuts on the injectors, but I reckon that there's close to zero chance of getting access to do this on the nuts on the pump. So if you're not good at guessing, practice with a torque wrench to get the "feel" to use a normal small spanner.
There's a bolt securing the pump to a bracket attached to the engine block. It's under the pump - where you can't really see it.
There's a gasket between the pump and timing case. It's a triangle with 4 holes in it - you can cut one in about a minute.
Probably forgotten some stuff there. I get the feeling that the Haynes manual was written by someone who did the job with an engine on a bench.