Can someone please explain the process of replacing these bushes?
Can they be pushed in with a vice, basic tools.
Planning on doing it over xmas if possible.
nolathane/poly ok?
terrano upper control arm bushes
Moderator: Mark
terrano upper control arm bushes
1992 Nissan Terrano
Re: terrano upper control arm bushes
First, where you at?
It can be a little tricky, but I've done 'em at home (two lots) with a vice and a hammer. Doesn't take long once you know what you're doing.
I run Nolathane in mine...wouldn't use rubber again.
It can be a little tricky, but I've done 'em at home (two lots) with a vice and a hammer. Doesn't take long once you know what you're doing.
I run Nolathane in mine...wouldn't use rubber again.
Re: terrano upper control arm bushes
Just did this today, mechanically its straightforward, the annoying part is getting the old bushings out!
1. Jack up and remove wheel. Place another jack under the lower control arm, to support the load
2. Unbolt shock and remove
3. Unbolt 4x bolts holding the UCA to the upper balljoint. Muscle the UCA off the balljoint. Hang the hub up to the chassis using some rope so the CV boots dont get damaged.
4. To make things easier later, loosen the nuts on either end of the spindle
5. Remove the two spindle bolts holding the control arm/spindle assembly to the frame (19mm I think)
Now you have the control arm out and ready to rebush. Remove the nuts we loosened earlier from the spindle. Set them and the washers aside.
The factory bushings are vulcanised rubber with a metal sleeve pressed into the arm. I used a propane BBQ torch to burn the old bushings out. TONS of heat till they smoulder and disintegrate. Once the first one is out, the second should be much easier.Careful not to damage the spindle threads hammering it out. Burn out every last bit of rubber.
Now you have the spindle ready.
1. Grease the hell out of one of your new bushings/sleeves and press it into the control arm using a G Climp and a bench, or you might get lucky w just grease.
2. Insert the spindle into the UCA from the other end, seat it properly in the new bush sleeve.
3. Reattach the nut, spring washer and large flat washer to that end of the spindle. Ratchet it in to make sure the bush is all the way in snug.
Now your are 90% there, the last part is a pain in the arse though unless you have a bushing press (I didnt).
4. Flip the UCA and put it in a vice
5. Grease the hell out of everything
6. Position the other new bushing
7. Work out a way to get it seated properly and snugly, may be easier to put the sleeve in first. I used heat, grease, a long pipe the same diameter as the bushing sleeve, a BFH hammer and finally managed to drift it into place.
Once you finally get that sucker in, reattach the nut, spring washer and flat washer to that end of the spindle. Then EVENLY tighten the nuts on either end of the rebushed spindle, a bit of play is okay. Once the UCA is rebushed, assembly is the reverse of above.
Depending on the bushings you get, the sleeves could be a pain the arse too. OEM rubber bushings should slide nicely over the spindle, but some aftermarket poly sleeves need to be pressed into place or bored out ever so slightly. Alternatively, leave the spindle in the freezer overnight so it shrinks, then pop the new sleeve in the following day.
I have managed to rebush using both poly and factory bushings using these methods.
This job isn't the most gratifying in the world, but it will help keep your camber under control and will improve overall ride quality. OEM bushings are softer and more spongy, poly bushings are stiffer but ride really nicely. Some people say that rubber bushings give better flex, personally I think thats getting a bit stupid.
Since your in there, the compression rod bushings would be a great thing to do also, assuming you haven't already.
Good luck!
1. Jack up and remove wheel. Place another jack under the lower control arm, to support the load
2. Unbolt shock and remove
3. Unbolt 4x bolts holding the UCA to the upper balljoint. Muscle the UCA off the balljoint. Hang the hub up to the chassis using some rope so the CV boots dont get damaged.
4. To make things easier later, loosen the nuts on either end of the spindle
5. Remove the two spindle bolts holding the control arm/spindle assembly to the frame (19mm I think)
Now you have the control arm out and ready to rebush. Remove the nuts we loosened earlier from the spindle. Set them and the washers aside.
The factory bushings are vulcanised rubber with a metal sleeve pressed into the arm. I used a propane BBQ torch to burn the old bushings out. TONS of heat till they smoulder and disintegrate. Once the first one is out, the second should be much easier.Careful not to damage the spindle threads hammering it out. Burn out every last bit of rubber.
Now you have the spindle ready.
1. Grease the hell out of one of your new bushings/sleeves and press it into the control arm using a G Climp and a bench, or you might get lucky w just grease.
2. Insert the spindle into the UCA from the other end, seat it properly in the new bush sleeve.
3. Reattach the nut, spring washer and large flat washer to that end of the spindle. Ratchet it in to make sure the bush is all the way in snug.
Now your are 90% there, the last part is a pain in the arse though unless you have a bushing press (I didnt).
4. Flip the UCA and put it in a vice
5. Grease the hell out of everything
6. Position the other new bushing
7. Work out a way to get it seated properly and snugly, may be easier to put the sleeve in first. I used heat, grease, a long pipe the same diameter as the bushing sleeve, a BFH hammer and finally managed to drift it into place.
Once you finally get that sucker in, reattach the nut, spring washer and flat washer to that end of the spindle. Then EVENLY tighten the nuts on either end of the rebushed spindle, a bit of play is okay. Once the UCA is rebushed, assembly is the reverse of above.
Depending on the bushings you get, the sleeves could be a pain the arse too. OEM rubber bushings should slide nicely over the spindle, but some aftermarket poly sleeves need to be pressed into place or bored out ever so slightly. Alternatively, leave the spindle in the freezer overnight so it shrinks, then pop the new sleeve in the following day.
I have managed to rebush using both poly and factory bushings using these methods.
This job isn't the most gratifying in the world, but it will help keep your camber under control and will improve overall ride quality. OEM bushings are softer and more spongy, poly bushings are stiffer but ride really nicely. Some people say that rubber bushings give better flex, personally I think thats getting a bit stupid.
Since your in there, the compression rod bushings would be a great thing to do also, assuming you haven't already.
Good luck!
TOYOTA - The Official Vehicle of ISIS!
And makers of the '92 Camry, where you got your first backseat handjob.
And makers of the '92 Camry, where you got your first backseat handjob.
Re: terrano upper control arm bushes
brilliant write up dude, certainly sounds doable. any one got a set of bushes for sale?
cheers
cheers
1992 Nissan Terrano
Re: terrano upper control arm bushes
lax2wlg wrote:Muscle the UCA off the balljoint.
If you do the step below first, it'll be much easier...
lax2wlg wrote:4. To make things easier later, loosen the nuts on either end of the spindle
lax2wlg wrote: Some people say that rubber bushings give better flex, personally I think thats getting a bit stupid.
Not in this case, the arm doesn't need to flex sideways, so there's no advantage, and the free pivoting of the poly's let it move easier....
Re: terrano upper control arm bushes
DEATH_INC wrote:Not in this case, the arm doesn't need to flex sideways, so there's no advantage, and the free pivoting of the poly's let it move easier....
Ahhh that makes sense...
FWIW I found the rubber ones easier to install without a press.
TOYOTA - The Official Vehicle of ISIS!
And makers of the '92 Camry, where you got your first backseat handjob.
And makers of the '92 Camry, where you got your first backseat handjob.
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