r50 still has a knock

[J_Dub]

So I've replaced front control arms bushes, ball joints, re packed cvs, new boots, done rear upper control arm bushes and rear sway bar bushes.

I will be doing the rear lower bushes in the next week, even tho the garage didn't pick up any movement when going for a WOF ( I asked him to specifically concentrate on the control arms) but as the uppers were flogged I'm sure the lowers can't be in too good a nick.

I'm still getting a hard knocking sound in the front when going over a decent bump, more so passenger side, absolutely no movement or knock when hard turning left to right, so that's gotta cancel out the top hat stru bearings?? I will check front sway bar this weekend but the sound I'm getting sounds too hard to be sway bar.. Is it possible the sound from a flogged rear bush can transmit through to make it feel like its coming from the front?? Any ideas??

Cheers

[Crash bandicoot]

check your engine and transmission mounts, washer bottle, battery, (side steps/runnerboards these tend to rust off. )
intercooler mounts. top brackets that hold the nudge bar on(if it has one)

These things are a tin can full of loose nuts and bolts compared to the earlier WD21 and R20. For some reason unbeknown to the normal world of society nissan went quite half arsed on this particular model.

even the old mans one which is a QD32 eti r3m is falling to bits and not working properly.

[ChurchurDan]

The front struts crap out as well but the normally start leaking first.

[J_Dub]

check your engine and transmission mounts, washer bottle, battery, (side steps/runnerboards these tend to rust off. )
intercooler mounts. top brackets that hold the nudge bar on(if it has one)

These things are a tin can full of loose nuts and bolts compared to the earlier WD21 and R20. For some reason unbeknown to the normal world of society nissan went quite half arsed on this particular model.

even the old mans one which is a QD32 eti r3m is falling to bits and not working properly.

Cheers will check all them. Yea their a bit rattly but as a daily they are bloody nice to drive. At this rate it will be a damn new car soon.

[J_Dub]

The front struts crap out as well but the normally start leaking first.

If it were the struts wouldn't I feel something while steering as well? Its purely when hitting a bump, even at low speeds

[mudbugga]

Check the front swaybar links. Very common to need replacing.

[3VILC]

Mine will be getting the same treatment soon. Used to drive real nice, now its getting clunky n sloppy. The one that annoys me the most is an annoying as hell slight shudder/rattle at idle and light takeoff that sounds to be in the gearbox tunnel area (similar to the noise you'd get if the shifter linkages were loose or the exhaust was up against something) but its not that. Had gearbox mount checked at last WOF and seemed ok. Started not long after I got it so picking the dealer has whacked some grease on something to shut it up for a few ks haha. Will have to have a decent look at everything once I start ripping bushes out

[BlakeNZ]

is the "knock' sharp like two pieces of metal banging together, or more muffled? (how much is a new strut…?)

[ChurchurDan]

I did mine a year ago and they where about $350 for the pair.

[J_Dub]

My knock is the sound of 2 hard surfaces coming into contact, definately a mount somewhere, not tinny or rattly

[The Green Machine]

Is likely to be the exhaust flexor hitting the chassis. Look underneath the front passenger side and you will see the mesh looking exhaust flexor just down from the engine. It is quite close to the chassis and when it gets a bit old it flexes too much. It is there to stop your exhaust system from cracking.

The fix - I put blue tack on the chassis between the flexor! No noise now when you go over bumps!

(didn't want to replace the flexor as it wasn't leaking or cracked yet)

[hamboy]

Is likely to be the exhaust flexor hitting the chassis. Look underneath the front passenger side and you will see the mesh looking exhaust flexor just down from the engine. It is quite close to the chassis and when it gets a bit old it flexes too much. It is there to stop your exhaust system from cracking.

The fix - I put blue tack on the chassis between the flexor! No noise now when you go over bumps!

(didn't want to replace the flexor as it wasn't leaking or cracked yet)

X2 check the exhaust system as its really stupidly close in places

[J_Dub]

Cheers guys. Will do. This weekends mission

[kbushnz]

Not a 4x4 but I had a clunk in one corner.... only did it on bumps... slow or fast. I could bounce it up and down and nothing. Go out the drive way and clunk..... turned out to be the shock. The internal valve thing must have been stuufed.

[mudbugga]

(how much is a new strut…?)

Cheap shocks on TM....
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 435064.htm

Repco had them on sale recently as well. Under the hundy mark each for Munros.

[J_Dub]

Right so I've checked front sway bar bushes and all seems good although they are nearing the end of their life there's no sign of contact anywhere to create a knock.

I jacked up fron't left and there is play in the wheel when moving it holding top and bottom but nothing when holding both sides and moving it.. Bearing???
Wouldn't a loose bearing show movement both ways.

Also when I hit the spring the whole strut assembly makes a definite sound that I would think it shouldn't do, even with no load on the strut there should be enough tension in the assembly right to cause no knocks or signs of lack of tension?????

[Crash bandicoot]

check the two bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the hub assembly

[J_Dub]

check the two bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the hub assembly

Yea they are all tight.

[NB42]

Ball joints? My Mu had movement up and down but not left and right, and the mechanic said start at the ball joints. They could make a knock if worn too

[J_Dub]

^^^ have replaced those

[Slacker]

Did you find out what the knocking was? I have a similar issue front left with my truck. Also has a shuddering on the open road.

[J_Dub]

Shuddering is the auto box, torque converter on its way out but there are additives that fix it, forgot which 1 I used but get an additive that specifically states that it removes shuddering, it does work, its a 2 part mix, thick as.

As for the knock, never found it in the end, but with everything I done I reckon it was the strut assembly.

Sold the truck now

[Slacker]

Yeah I'm thinking its the strut assembly too. Is it ok to replace one or best to replace them as a pair?

[BlakeNZ]

is the "knock' sharp like two pieces of metal banging together, or more muffled? (how much is a new strut…?)

[Crash bandicoot]

As a pair preferably other wisr you may encounter bump steer as the worn side compresses easier then the new one

[Slacker]

What brands do you recommend Crash? Being an old truck don't want to spend to much. Can I purchase from BNT Repco etc?

[Crash bandicoot]

What brands do you recommend Crash? Being an old truck don't want to spend to much. Can I purchase from BNT Repco etc?

If you are just after the normal OEM part BNT is fine i would n't used ripco to expensive.
Bilstien is a rear breed but have been seen, but any really, its just a macpherson strut after all.

and dont pay more then 200 a corner, if you do you might as well get the two inch lift struts from 4wdbits and shove some 50 mm poly spacers on the rear coils whiles your at it.

[Slacker]

Thanks for the advice.