GQ Y60 TD42Problem 2: fuse blowing

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SaltireNZ
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GQ Y60 TD42Problem 2: fuse blowing

Postby SaltireNZ » Sat Sep 02, 2017 1:56 pm

HI again, Problem 2...

I have one fuse that keeps going - when it goes I lose tachy, volt gauge, instrument lights and (bizarrely) the electric windows.
Replacing the fuse fixes everything...but it goes again...I figure I have a wore that it is intermittently touching an earth somewhere but where to start?
It works ok but it blows as i turn off, or if the vehicle is vibrating a lot - so I figure insulation chafe and an shorting problem...sound feasible??

How does an amateur track this down? Without the vehicle looking like a kit set from ikea at the end of the day?

(I just know someone is going to say - you have to work through the whole wiring loom....argg)

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Crash bandicoot
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Re: GQ Y60 TD42Problem 2: fuse blowing

Postby Crash bandicoot » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:54 pm

well the instrument cluster is 12 volt, so it's on the 12 volt side of the 24/12 volt reducer.
does that narrow it down a bit for ya
:?:

but that's only if it's a 24 volt saf?
Waiter...there is a drought in my glass.

SaltireNZ
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Re: GQ Y60 TD42Problem 2: fuse blowing

Postby SaltireNZ » Sun Sep 03, 2017 8:46 am

Thanks, yes it is a 24v safari. So if the 24v/12v reducer is basically a transformer and the two coils are not directly electrically connected in the same circuit then the short must be between the reducer and the battery (probably after the fuse box I am thinking rather than before it)? unless it is in the circuit to the power window relay...

Does that sound right?

MihiT
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Re: GQ Y60 TD42Problem 2: fuse blowing

Postby MihiT » Sun Sep 03, 2017 2:31 pm

SaltireNZ wrote:Thanks, yes it is a 24v safari. So if the 24v/12v reducer is basically a transformer and the two coils are not directly electrically connected in the same circuit then the short must be between the reducer and the battery (probably after the fuse box I am thinking rather than before it)? unless it is in the circuit to the power window relay...

Does that sound right?

I have never pulled apart the reducer, but it wont have an iso transformer as it's DC.
It was my first thought too, a hot wire coming onto the case...
One plug on the back of it - easy enough to disconnect

And that's basically what you have to do, disconnect stuff until it stops happening. My second thought is the window switch blocks, the most used ones first (drivers) again, unplug them all, and one by one plug in until the fuse pops.

You can get thermo-resetting fuses, too, rather than burning through handfuls of normal blades.
- 1990 LWB Safari flatdeck, TD42 -

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