Toyota Solid axle IFS swop

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De-Ranged
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Toyota Solid axle IFS swop

Postby De-Ranged » Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:32 am

This is a copy from my posting on Project Lemon, please don't post here if you have any issues / comments then post them on the Lemon thread
Project Lemon Extreme Front Axle

I am writing this becouse I've been asked by so many people for details on this conversion and the different ways of doing it

First off why :roll: simple it gives you extra width in the front end without having to run spacers also it can be done to even out the differance between the Hilux solid front axle and the rear axles off an IFS Surf or late model Hilux the difference can be seen in this pic
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the solid axle hub is on the left the difference is 33mm extra each side (considering the currant certification limit for spacers is 27mm this is worth while :D )

Issues with the Hub swop... there are none with the hubs both swop without any issues bearing are the same everything bolts over no problems all you need is a spacer ring cut from the brake sheild (or if your going to use the brake spacer ring then you leave the sheild.... the only issue with this mod is with the brakes, there is a slight difference in caliper mounting distances between the solid axle swivel housings and IFS what this means is if you run a IFS disc and caliper bolted onto the solid axle swivil the caliper will be mounted sligtly further out... just enough to make it illegal for certification as not all of the pad is in contact with the disk :? :roll: now there are two ways round this, running a spacer that allows you to bolt a solid axle disc or vented cruiser disc in and line it up with the normal caliper placement, and the second ( 8) way I did it...) to move the cailiper to the other side of the swivel mounting posts and redrill a solid axle disc to bolt onto the IFS hub

Before I get into how too, heres why I did it my way
Moves caliper back inside the protection of the rim :D
Your not adding extra weight of a spacer :lol: yea I know pretty lame considering how much steel I added to the axle housing, I was just trying to find excuses to justify the real reason 8)
Bugger all people do it this way so its a bit differnt and I like that :roll:

Right here goes
We'll start with the difficult part just flipping the caliper over the other side of the posts won't quit line you up ... its actually 1.5mm out, now you can get around this by just using second hand pads or you can mill 1.5mm off the caliper posts or the swivel housing posts .... the better one to do and the harder to mount in a mill :roll: would be the swivel housing as the casting on the new inside surface on the pegs is sometimes a bit tapered and there is less machined surface ..... as you can see below I chose to take it off the caliper as it was easyer to mount 8)
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You can also see where I tapped a thread in there to bolt them up, you don't need to as there is space when mounted to fit a nut
That gets the caliper mounted next the hub now to fit the hub, to do this you'll need to grind out the mounting ring on the old brake gard (its no good as a gard now as the disk is way inside of it :twisted: )
Image
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With the ring in place you can mount things normally
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Before you mount the hub use it to sort your mounting holes in the disk, if your not confident in drilling the holes in the right place heres a trick start out by slotting the two 8mm mounting bolt holes you can do this with a round file if you don't have a mill :P I do so I did :lol:
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With it bolted on flip it over and mark your centers a good trick here is to find or lathe a center punch down so it fits nicely into the brake mounting holes in the hub :wink:
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Once you've got them marked drill them out progessivly 8) don't think you can get away with just drilling them out with a 10mm start small it will cause less wonder and save you haveing to slot things later to get them mounted
Heres the finished disk sporting the latest fashion in "multi-fit"
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now all you need to do is mount everything
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Heres a shot showing the brake tucked away in the wheel
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Now for the "spacer" way
This way you leave the caliper in its normal mounting and machine a mount that bolts first to the IFS hub with recesses to fit the bolt heads and then a set of mounting holes that are taped to take the solid axle disk, this bolts the disk in line with the caliper, there are a number of aftermarket outfits making these spacers and this is where the spacer has its biggest bonus it is bolt on you don't need any engineering to do it
Here is a pic of a spacer made to move the standard IFS rotor out, please note this is not certifiable in NZ see the large gap between the outside of the disk and the inside of the caliper
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becouse the solid axle caliper mounts are further out not all of the pad contacts the disk and is why you can't certify

To do it to a certifiable level you need to make the spacer alot thicker and run a cruiser vented rotor and the IFS calipers or the original solid axle disks and caliper
The downside of this method is it leaves the disk flush with the inside of the wheel and the caliper sticking further out but it allows you to retain the original brake sheild

Any questions comments please post them on this build thread
Project Lemon Extreme Front Axle

Cheers Reece

Oh and when I do get around to making a bolt on ring I'll edit this to show how :roll: I'm just a bit busy at the moment

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