JEEP ?

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Browndog
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JEEP ?

Postby Browndog » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:57 pm

Thinking or buying a jeep Cherokee mid 90 i like the idear of 4l petrol ( won't be my daily drive) and the cheep price . what are the pros and cons i would like to lift it +big tyres+diff lock . Lets here all the storys

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coxsy
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Postby coxsy » Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:32 pm

i have a nissan but the jeeps i run with , have lifts longer radis arms + winchs their lightens is one good point of them get one you will enjoy it off road

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Postby xj » Fri Nov 10, 2006 5:23 pm

if youre going to go say 33 in tyres, AND diff lock it, it may be worth looking at a ford 9inch or dana 44 diff conversion, the dana35c rear may not handle it, a front diff lock... the dana 30 front will quite possibly (possibly, not probably) shit itself.
33 and above is also going to tneed at least a 5 inch lift (??????? Ive lifted 3 inches with 31 in tyres and i get rub on hard lock), get a full suspension kit from overseas. Even then check for all the bells and whistles. I priced from two outfits here and neither had all the bits and pieces you should have, ie: transfer case drops, extended brake lines, lengthened diffs, longer front control arms (or whatever vernacular you prefer to use) steering arm relocation bracket/drop pittman arm (without either one the steering damper is either going to get buggered completly or force its way off) Basically they both said "heres ya shocks and springs"... but thats gunna root ya on a 5 inch lift.

Pros and cons of the wagon..... i love the 4l hemi, same donk used in the old vailiants, but injected... never had a problem. Some folks have had dodgy gearboxes.... but then thats a motor vehicle for ya. They tend to be noisy inside, the electric windows are placed in a prick of a spot, they run hot as a rule, so any blockage or anything differing from the norm (mud) tends to get em hot hot hot. the interior is a cheap plastic, be prepared for squeak city. they weight 1300kg.... so a damn site lighter than say a safari with a kerb weight of 1900-2000kg. Economy.... exactly the same as my old ed fairmont.... hamilton/whangarei/hamilton round trip does a tight tank.... 600-odd clicks, tank from memory is 76 litres.

You either love em or ya hate em........ i love em
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Postby coxsy » Fri Nov 10, 2006 5:35 pm

XJ thanks thats what i wanted to say but couldn't find the words

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Postby xj » Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:12 pm

i was saving it all up for one outburst ;)
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Postby lilpigzuk » Fri Nov 10, 2006 8:24 pm

xj wrote:. they weight 1300kg.... so a damn site lighter than say a safari with a kerb weight of 1900-2000kg.



Is this correct?? Like not give or take 500kg?? And is the front diff pumpkin (diffhead etc) on the left hand side??

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Postby JTop » Fri Nov 10, 2006 8:30 pm

They don't run a Valiant Hemi, they run a Rambler six, which they ran before Chrysler inherited them.
J Top

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Postby xj » Fri Nov 10, 2006 10:40 pm

JTop, I guess im wrong, and your only barely partially correct.... Ive done some more research..... Rambler six didnt run the 4l donk at all, but the XJ certainly didnt run the Hemi, as i earlier stated.

Rambler Classic (renamed from Rambler Six, to aviod confusion with the motor), ran from 1964-70, and was powered with a 3.3l (199cuin)

The 4litre (242cuin) was an evolution of the AMC 258 (4.2litre born in 1971) and first appeared in 1987. (the first XJ cherokee)
in 1991 Chrysler redesigned the previously used engine control computer (RENIX) changed the intake ports, throttle body, higher flowing injector units and camshaft profile. The badging was then changed to 4.0L high output. The motor was then tweaked in 1995 and 96.

.... so yeah Jtop, thanks for pointing that out, I learned something i ought to have already known!!!!!!!! I would have carried on under the illusion that i was driving a hemi!!!!!!!!!! ;) (what will the bros in huntly think now)


lil piggy zuk: XJ cherokee curb weight is 1386kg, the 1995 safari granroad 2 dr sits at 2120kg curb weight.
http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/nis ... 5_8/21240/

Yes, the front diff head is on the left on the dana 30.
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Postby Browndog » Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:20 am

Thanks for all the info i'd like to run 33s so what sort of money and from where would you buy this sort of lift kit & what is the best year to buy what improvments are made to the donk 95 / 96 and is the sport any better there more exspensive ?

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Postby TJ » Sat Nov 11, 2006 5:12 pm

I run a TJ (hence the name). Only needed a 2" lift to get to run 32 inch tyre. I have also put disconnects on the front sway bar, I get no rubbing. If you have to have 33+ inch tyres, XJ would need a decent lift or a bit of fender trimming (or both).

Also, NZ new (now old) Wranglers come with Dana 44 in the back, no D35C here for breakage.... Running bigger tyres should not be a problem.

As for the 4L engine, in TJ format it does not run as hot because there is more room in the engine compartment for fresh air to cool things down. The engine has ample power to surprise a few big guns with massive turbos or V8s. The engine has very good low end torque band, which is what you want on a off-roader.

Go on the net and surf a few American website for what people are doing with XJs and see what an amazing machine Jeeps are.

If you go too high with the lift, you will have to put a slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case.

I agree, either you love them or hate them... I love mine and am prepared to put up with the noise and occassional leakage from my dashborad when it is raining and I am on the motorway (I need to figure that one out - but everything keeps working so why bother).

Cheers

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Postby Browndog » Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:21 pm

How high can you go with just new coils & what else do you do you need & whats a slip yoke eliminator ?

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Postby xj » Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:56 pm

Bugger all without your shocks topping out. And besides, they got leaves in the rear, so just lifting ur coils is going to be a waste of time. You can pack out the coils and leaves, but only to two inches, if i recall correctly, and even then the general consensus is all you achieve is flattening out ur leaves.

Shock extenders can be procured to acommodate the spring lift.
Seems to be that two inches is the max before needing to: pack out transfer case cross member, extending brake lines, relocating steering arm, etc etc.

For the two inch lift (on the sport) or 3 inches (on the limited - the sport was produced with suspension one inch higher that the ltd) all you're going to get is 31inch tyres under there. . . . (see earlier post)

If you seriously want to run 33" tyres, there aint a cheap way about it man...... suspension lift is it. I would suggest 5 inches. Maybe you gotta go more. . . .

Is it cheaper to just get the driveshaft lengthened than get a slip yoke eliminator???? (Anyone???)
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Postby TJ » Tue Nov 14, 2006 8:53 am

On a XJ, possible to just extend the driveshaft (don't know for sure). But on a short wheel base TJ, its the angle of the joint at the transfer case that becomes the problem (too acute). Hence you have to eliminate the slip yoke and go with a fixed yoke. Once you change the yoke to a fixed component, something has to give as the suspension travel, so the design calls for a slip component in the driveshaft. Thats why it become more and more expensive.

One of the reasons for me to stick to 32s and 2.5" lift is that thats the max I can go with the factory driveshaft. (bigger tyres --> need higher lift --> more components to change --> $$$).

Cheers

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Postby Aaron » Tue Nov 14, 2006 2:09 pm

I was looking at getting a XJ so I was looking at all the US jeep forums and the result was for 33s you need at least 5 inch lift and the gaurds trimed.
When you lift it that much the short arms on the front diff are on a large angle so it handles very badly. There is a skyjacker kit that has brackets to drop where the arms bolt on to the body (no chassis) tyo keep the angles right, or there is a long arm kit also.
You need a slip yoke eliminator if you get vibrations (some do and some dont). The Dana 30 in the front is crap and wont take a lot of abuse with big tyres.
Rocky road in the US was selling a 5 inch lift kit for $1200 US on Ebay but it wasd another $700 US to get it here!
When the jeeps are done right I think they look great, but they take a lot of work to get them there.
Toyota 70 series cruiser, 13bt
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Postby Aaron » Tue Nov 14, 2006 2:30 pm

Toyota 70 series cruiser, 13bt

Phone 029 454 8533

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Postby Browndog » Thu Nov 16, 2006 10:21 pm

Thanks for all the info but on a XJ it sounds to expensive & to much work to run 32s let alone 33s so back to the drawing board looking at beam axle coil springs and 33s ?

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Postby xj » Fri Nov 17, 2006 5:36 pm

It's worth it if you have a passion for the wagon, and are prepared to spend some dosh, lose some skin, and fully utilise a limited profane vocabulary.....

Quite probably a wise conclusion Browndog.
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Postby TJ » Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:24 pm

May be you should just wait till mid next year and get the new Wrangler. It will be beam axle, four dours, coil springs, factory 32 inch tyres. You would also have the option of a CRD or petrol. The four dour version is supposed to be as big (if not bigger) than a G/Cherokee....

I am joking, of course. But seriously, Jeeps are built not bought. If it was too easy, everybody would be doing it.

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Postby xj » Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:56 pm

Browndog, mine is for sale. Lifted 3 inches with 31's. (See little pic below)
Im intending on taking the maxxis mudders/jeep rims off though and selling it with Baja Claws and ROH mags. . . . . . . might not be your cuppa tea, but thought i may as well throw it out there.
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