Offroad-Express

nothing major just a 1 kg extinguisher floating around in the back of the safari , screwed it to the large door inside miss the storage box right beside cooking table, still open can open box to get at stuff win win,
power wound new rope on heaps of room on new drum

Cleaning up garage after throwing my toys then fitting standard diff into challenger seeing as my locker was rooted.
Then all going well respray the underside of the truck then hopefully just wheel aligment left to do.

the dude before you running the locker full time or something stupid
you kind need the locker in the front aye

sublimenz wrote:Cleaning up garage after throwing my toys then fitting standard diff into challenger seeing as my locker was rooted.
Then all going well respray the underside of the truck then hopefully just wheel aligment left to do.

what was fawked in the arb there isn't usually much goes wrong with them other than leaky O-Rings?

challengers lift wheels on rough ground so needs two ABS to move or your winching the thing around

it was totally screwed and beyond repair. The diff was full of water and sludge and shagged as well so will have to run standard diff until I can find $1800 for a new one which wont be for awhile.
Is there anyway to tell if the rear one is locking like a noise in the diff ? and should the compresser start up every 30secs or so ??

Jack up the rear wheels and engage locker. While turning one wheel by hand: If both wheels spin same way = locked, opposite ways = unlocked. Compressor starting often indicates there's an air leak somewhere in the system.

Mehrts wrote:Jack up the rear wheels and engage locker. While turning one wheel by hand: If both wheels spin same way = locked, opposite ways = unlocked. Compressor starting often indicates there's an air leak somewhere in the system.

Sweet I will try that in the morning. I thought it may have been an air leak and think I know where to look.

Wayne says ,check the nylon pipes ,has leaked there before, drain the oil out of the rear to see if water in there ,shouldn't be but check.

coxsy wrote:Wayne says ,check the nylon pipes ,has leaked there before, drain the oil out of the rear to see if water in there ,shouldn't be but check.

Found the leak it was the way I had tried to block the connection from the front locker.
Drained the oil out of the rear and it still looked good almost still clear.
I took it for a quick play in the dunes this arvo and everything went as I expected so at this point im happy.
Just painting underneath and replace the arm that goes from the rear diff to chassis to go then find some wheel nuts for the steel wheels and im done

Fitted some small 3w LEDs over the winch drum, for those crap its dark and Im still winching moments

cool idea

Went out for a play today, totally obliterated the front right inner and outer CV's(outer was already clicking on full lock),

Got to the point the front wheel starting binding up half way up a the hill couldnt go back down without hittin a tree or three so kept on going tryin to take it easy on the winch
After doing a winch reset gave it the gas and sheared what was left of the tripod joint right off the axle.

Got home tonight and had a squiz at it , torn the boot open, stuck me finger in there and pulled out bits of metal.

Tomorrows problem.

ya going to need something under the front of that thing that you can fit a set of longfields into that factory ifs stuff is only designed for softroading not snotting around with your boot up it sporting a set of simexes

derk wrote:ya going to need something under the front of that thing that you can fit a set of longfields into that factory ifs stuff is only designed for softroading not snotting around with your boot up it sporting a set of simexes

I have a broken long field in my shed...There good, but there not gold plated packed in muir good. and for there price, ill buy half a dozen OEM axles thanks.

This is the first axle it has broken in the 4 years i have had it....can't complain really.

after the mighty mitzy gave up the ghost i bought a 1990 hilux with 215xxxks on the clock. fresh wof and reg and the mechanic said she was a goodie. owned it for two days and crashed into an escaped dry cow as she bolted out of some flax. only clipped her back end with the right side of the ute. luckliy enough my mate works on the farm so i no who the owner is and insurance should sort it. only damage was bent bull bars dent in the bonnet dented and pushed back rf guard and smashed lights.

that ifs stuff must be stronger than 4340 eh

Crash bandicoot wrote:Went out for a play today, totally obliterated the front right inner and outer CV's

Ya could upgrade to the 28 spline V6 axles which have a ball/cage inner joint too. The tripod joints don't seem to tolerate angles as well as the ball/cage.

The dimensions for the bell/cage/stub shaft on this unit are all exactly the same as the C200 live axle from the MK Patrol. In fact I'm pretty sure the entire outer joint is the same item aside from the notch where the CV boot slides on to clamp down. The inner ball/cage joint uses the same cage/bearing race as the outer.

Only thing is you need to change the needle bearings in the spindles too, otherwise they won't fit through the hole.

lax2wlg wrote:

Crash bandicoot wrote:Went out for a play today, totally obliterated the front right inner and outer CV's

Ya could upgrade to the 28 spline V6 axles which have a ball/cage inner joint too. The tripod joints don't seem to tolerate angles as well as the ball/cage.

The dimensions for the bell/cage/stub shaft on this unit are all exactly the same as the C200 live axle from the MK Patrol. In fact I'm pretty sure the entire outer joint is the same item aside from the notch where the CV boot slides on to clamp down. The inner ball/cage joint uses the same cage/bearing race as the outer.

Only thing is you need to change the needle bearings in the spindles too, otherwise they won't fit through the hole.

yeah the other problem is I got spare sets of hubs that are all 27 spline too.