Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
- Sadam_Husain
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Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
I've always been plagued with punctures with my creepies, I keep the insides of the tyres spotlessly clean and I think it’s just the abrasiveness of the inside of the creepies rubbing against the tubes at low pressure that causes the punctures, its always on the sides of the tubes, I had very few punctures with my old simexes and Nurseys been running around on them for a while now and she’s not getting punctures? Both sets of wheels are heavy duty tubes with dump valves
I got a handful of tubeless dump valves last year and threw them in the glovebox and ripped one of my tubes out and stuck one in yesterday when I got yet another puncture
has anybody been running them and had any problems with them, I run my creepies on 10” beadlocks usually at around 10-12 psi in rutted stuff or go down to 4-5psi if I don’t have to worry about diff heights and haven’t ever had problems knocking inside beads off with the tubes in them
I got a handful of tubeless dump valves last year and threw them in the glovebox and ripped one of my tubes out and stuck one in yesterday when I got yet another puncture
has anybody been running them and had any problems with them, I run my creepies on 10” beadlocks usually at around 10-12 psi in rutted stuff or go down to 4-5psi if I don’t have to worry about diff heights and haven’t ever had problems knocking inside beads off with the tubes in them
Last edited by Sadam_Husain on Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- skid
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
most of trials guys now running tubeless
clean them real good and stick em together and see if they hold air, if they don't you can squirt a bit of silicone sealant round the bead and refit them
clean them real good and stick em together and see if they hold air, if they don't you can squirt a bit of silicone sealant round the bead and refit them
80 Series on 35" creepies, manual with twin factory lockers.
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- Sadam_Husain
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
the first one seems to be holding pressure so far, I had to nip the nut up on the valve stem pretty tight to stop air escaping around it, all the welds seem to be holding air ok
- mud_slinger
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
clean beads up real good.
can you rtv or bead seal or something similar.
if anyone needs those tractor valves i sell em
can you rtv or bead seal or something similar.
if anyone needs those tractor valves i sell em
needs more curry
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
BlackDeath runs tubeless and I will be doing that soon as well with my 35's... they seem to be ok on his truck as you would know..
- MNC
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
I'm running tubeless with those very same valves.
Did a whole day with 8 psi in the fronts and 6 psi in the rears with no problems. That said my front tires are 5" wider than the rims and rears are 8" wider than the rims so have pleantly of pressure pushing out on the inner bead.
Will drop another 2 psi front and rear next trip and see if there are any issues...
Did a whole day with 8 psi in the fronts and 6 psi in the rears with no problems. That said my front tires are 5" wider than the rims and rears are 8" wider than the rims so have pleantly of pressure pushing out on the inner bead.
Will drop another 2 psi front and rear next trip and see if there are any issues...
- mudlva
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
i will be going tubeless on my next set as well
i dont think the welded bead will be the issue it will be crud pushing in on the inside edge
at the mystery creek field days last year i got some black lumpy slimmy shit that goes into your tyres to stop punchers etc .....
anyways..... in was haveing mean problems with nails etc doing in my bobcat tyres put 500ml into each tyre and havnt had a problem since
so....
know this stuff works pretty well in that situation i was going to change to tubeless and put 1ltr of the gunk in working on a thorey that if i do get shit push in on the inside then this stuff might seal it
thats my thoughts anyway
wooo thats a long story my finger hurts now
i dont think the welded bead will be the issue it will be crud pushing in on the inside edge
at the mystery creek field days last year i got some black lumpy slimmy shit that goes into your tyres to stop punchers etc .....
anyways..... in was haveing mean problems with nails etc doing in my bobcat tyres put 500ml into each tyre and havnt had a problem since
so....
know this stuff works pretty well in that situation i was going to change to tubeless and put 1ltr of the gunk in working on a thorey that if i do get shit push in on the inside then this stuff might seal it
thats my thoughts anyway
wooo thats a long story my finger hurts now
Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
Mine are tubeless except one of my front tyres that has a dodgy bead an goes down to about 15psi if sitting, so it has a tube, all the rest I haven't touched since I fitted them.
I pulled my truck out of storage last week an all the tyres still had 28 psi in them
The only trip I did was the devils staircase one last year where I ran 3psi in front an 5 in the rear an I had no problems then either
I pulled my truck out of storage last week an all the tyres still had 28 psi in them
The only trip I did was the devils staircase one last year where I ran 3psi in front an 5 in the rear an I had no problems then either
Didn't barbie drive a jeep??
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
tubless beadlocks. most guys I know running beadlocks are running tubeless. advise I got was puncture with a tube its quick and its flat. cant pump it up leak is too fast. a puncture in a tyre goes down slower due to the thick rubber so you can keep pumping it up and get out. silicone around the bead lock bolts when putting together too gurantee seal. as saddam said low pressure rubs the tubes to death. hose hustler i think it was did the same thread a year or so ago same general consensus. carrying that gunk crap is a good idea. another thing to put on the trailer I need to tow around too carry all the shit it's wise to carry.
- mudlva
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
You dont carry the black gunk aroind you put it in either through the valve or inside the tyre before assembly. The idea is to have it in there and lining the complete tyre so when a leak does appear the stuff is there ready
Off hand cant remember the cost but my biggest saving is no lost time at work due to either changing tyres or taking them in to get repaired
Off hand cant remember the cost but my biggest saving is no lost time at work due to either changing tyres or taking them in to get repaired
Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
has anyone usked that gunk actually off-road? we put some into a couple of our work utes and on corrugated gravel roads it couldn't stay aheared to the inside tire and slopped around casuing a massive imbalance prob ok on-road, or as mudlva says in industrial tires thou
i used to Cruise, now i PATROL
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
OH must be a different one. I was meaning the green slime brand shit used after the puncture. works well but we found the limits of it when one of the guys didnt see them on a bridge and drove over a series of 1/2 inch studs sticking up that used to hold the sides on but had years earlier rotted of leaving the studs exposed Slime had no answer for that
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
Sadam
I had always ran my 37's on beadlocks tubeless at about 3 psi. I have never had any problems with them leaking between the bead and the rim and you shouldnt if the beadlocks are set up for the correct bead width of the tyre you are using.
They usually leak through the weld. Throw a little sealer on any porus areas of weld or anywhere that looks a little rough and you should be fine.
I had always ran my 37's on beadlocks tubeless at about 3 psi. I have never had any problems with them leaking between the bead and the rim and you shouldnt if the beadlocks are set up for the correct bead width of the tyre you are using.
They usually leak through the weld. Throw a little sealer on any porus areas of weld or anywhere that looks a little rough and you should be fine.
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
Same here, I used to run HD tubes and valves, but when down at 2-8psi the tube would squirm around inside the tyre and rip the valve off, wouldnt be till it was on the trailer, and strapped down that the tyre would go flat. Tubeless, sealed up the rims = no problems, actually no flatties at all since I dont drive it anymore
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- Sadam_Husain
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
thanks for the feedback, I know a lot of people have changed to tubeless and was interested to see if anyone using them had anything negative to say about them and paticularly with inside beads popping and being less reliable than with tubes. I've got a good supply of air on the truck and always have at least 1 spare tube in the back so worce case senario its no different to doing a punture on the side of the track if I find I have to stick a tube in to keep a tyre up, and after 20-30 puntures the past couple of years I've learnt to do tube swaps pretty quick without having to take the wheel off the truck
Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
Sadam_Husain wrote: ... and after 20-30 puntures the past couple of years I've learnt to do tube swaps pretty quick without having to take the wheel off the truck
wow nice
- snotgoblin
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
Does anyone on here use those "Second Air" beadlocks? I think they were branded Staun? 2 advantages that I can think of are; WOF-able and they "lock" both beads.
Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
I run the second air on my W/C zuk, never dropped a bead (4-6psi at times) but they do go flat over a few weeks. Run them at 50psi rather than the recommended 40 and still get crap in the bead. Not strictly road legal either in that you have to mod the rim to fit them, you need a second valve hole so should be certed
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
Sadam_Husain wrote: paticularly with inside beads popping and being less reliable than with tubes.
I occasionally pushed the tyre off the inner bead when trialling tubeless with bead locks. It was pretty simple to lift the weight off the wheel (high-lift or strop on cage), push the inner bead up against the inside of the bead seat and then use the air to re-seat it. If it was hard to get it to seal we would put a ratchet tie down around the tread.
Would be less fun if you were flatty side down in a mud hole and couldn't easily get a jack under the truck, but no worse than trying to change a wheel in the same situation...
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- MNC
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
snotgoblin wrote:Does anyone on here use those "Second Air" beadlocks? I think they were branded Staun? 2 advantages that I can think of are; WOF-able and they "lock" both beads.
I think Niblik had these but had the same problem with tube punctures??? Best to get that from the horse mouth rather than via a Chinese whisper.
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
MNC wrote:snotgoblin wrote:Does anyone on here use those "Second Air" beadlocks? I think they were branded Staun? 2 advantages that I can think of are; WOF-able and they "lock" both beads.
I think Niblik had these but had the same problem with tube punctures??? Best to get that from the horse mouth rather than via a Chinese whisper.
**following said in best yoshi whisper**
not quite chap.. i've had nothing in the way of punctures or anything. had a stick in the bead once but found my internal air wasnt at full pressure.. corrected that and all goodly..
swear by internal airs... can run tyre at 0 psi and not damage rim as the internal air system sits proud of the rim, locks both beads too yeah..
problem i see with normal tubes is that to get the tyre to keep its bead, ya need pressure in the tube.. ya lower said pressure to allow tyre to bag and now the tubes not doin anything.. seems counter productive..
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
i was running 35creepys tubeless on 15x10 beadlocks,they kept going down but really randomly took them into Kats they found to much sealant between the rim and lock ring they cleaned them up and i never had an issue after that
BJ70 13bt creepys,beadlocks n not a straight panel
Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
snotgoblin wrote:Does anyone on here use those "Second Air" beadlocks? I think they were branded Staun? 2 advantages that I can think of are; WOF-able and they "lock" both beads.
Hi all, I run the second air Micky T rims, 8" on my V8 cruiser, no probs at all since ditching the 10 inch rims, when these were on I spin the tyre on the rims regular with low pressure.
On my safari (used for fun ruff stuff)I had the same prob, since shifted to mechanical beadlocks on 8 " rims with tractor tubes n dump valves, again no probs since.
The problem is the 10 " rims, most of the comp trucks use 7 or 8" rims!
I have a set of 4 stauns, suitable for 15 x 8" rims if anyone interested pm me.
Cheers
StuB
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Re: Anyone gone tubeless with beadlocks?
Sadam_Husain wrote:thanks for the feedback, I know a lot of people have changed to tubeless and was interested to see if anyone using them had anything negative to say about them and paticularly with inside beads popping and being less reliable than with tubes. I've got a good supply of air on the truck and always have at least 1 spare tube in the back so worce case senario its no different to doing a punture on the side of the track if I find I have to stick a tube in to keep a tyre up, and after 20-30 puntures the past couple of years I've learnt to do tube swaps pretty quick without having to take the wheel off the truck
Was told by a MAXXIS dealer not to use TUBES in TREPADORs or CREEPY's they seem to hole them rapidly. Beadlocks the only way to go without tubes.
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