Bought a set of 8in beadlock rims with simex 35 10.5 15 tyres on.
Taken these tyres off to fit new set of simex 35 11.5 15's.
Put tyre on but could not get the ring to bolt up to to the rim.
Had all the bolts in - tightened evenly all around the rim but still had a gap of around 4 - 5 mm between ring and rim.
Tried using a huge engineers clamp to tighten ring down but absolutely no way the ring would go any closer.
Even blew the tyre up to bead the other side of the tyre thinking it may straighten the tyre wall or whatever, but no difference.
Can categorically state there is no way on earth the ring and rim would ever meet.
Can anyone recommend the next step, a 4mm spacer ring (if there is such a thing) or are rings available with a wider internal step to allow for a thicker tyre wall ?
Anyone else had this problem ?
cheers
BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
Beadlock rims are normal built to suit bead thickness
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pzj70,35's,Lockers,Winch and some stickers for added flex.
^^Soon to be on safari axles and 5.13's, 37's linked front and rear^^
Ln60 project (money pit) <-- Sold
Pzj77 Turbo/auto,33's .
Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
Like ^^ said. check bead thickness are same, seems strange 2 simex be that different.
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- mudlva
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Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
my bead lock rims dont clamp tight to the rim because its clamping the bead of the tyre, which it what it should do.
make sure all bolts are even in torque, which on M6 is not alot, and after 30-60 minutes off-roading do a random check on half dozen bolts per wheel, if still nice and tight, all good
make sure all bolts are even in torque, which on M6 is not alot, and after 30-60 minutes off-roading do a random check on half dozen bolts per wheel, if still nice and tight, all good
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Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
Just a quick thought.........
Did you look to see if the original tyres had the lock ring clamped tight to the rim ??
Did you look to see if the original tyres had the lock ring clamped tight to the rim ??
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Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
Have a look at your original tyres you may find they have had the beads trimmed
I've heard of people trimming the flare at the base of the bead off, this is just soft rubber and is there to provide a better seal to the seat of a normal rim... on most beadlocks the seal is created by the clamping of the outer ring so this isn't really needed
If you do decide to trim the beads then I suggest a bead of silicon for the inner face of the clamped bead just to help it seal
I've heard of people trimming the flare at the base of the bead off, this is just soft rubber and is there to provide a better seal to the seat of a normal rim... on most beadlocks the seal is created by the clamping of the outer ring so this isn't really needed
If you do decide to trim the beads then I suggest a bead of silicon for the inner face of the clamped bead just to help it seal
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Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
Had this discussion last night at club meeting. 10.5 --11.5 simex are indeed 4mm different bead thickness. Trimming lip wont help. I would go with mudlva's idea. It's free for starters
Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
You can get profile cut spacer rings made.
We've used them at work before to fix opposite problem, ie bead loose in clamp...
Take a rim into a engineering place that can profile cut and see what they say...
However, My last set of bead locks always had a small gap, I never worried about it...
We've used them at work before to fix opposite problem, ie bead loose in clamp...
Take a rim into a engineering place that can profile cut and see what they say...
However, My last set of bead locks always had a small gap, I never worried about it...
It's just more fun in a lada !!
Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
rotordogg wrote:...
However, My last set of bead locks always had a small gap, I never worried about it...
Not having the 2 surfaces of the bead lock firmly clamped together is a massive weakening of the structure, and DANGEROUS.
When properly assembled there is shear force on the M6 bolts, when not properly assembled (ie a gap) there is a bending force on the M6 bolts, ie several orders of magnitude weaker.
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Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
4WDbits wrote:rotordogg wrote:...
However, My last set of bead locks always had a small gap, I never worried about it...
Not having the 2 surfaces of the bead lock firmly clamped together is a massive weakening of the structure, and DANGEROUS.
When properly assembled there is shear force on the M6 bolts, when not properly assembled (ie a gap) there is a bending force on the M6 bolts, ie several orders of magnitude weaker.
granted but ive beaten the crap out of mine with no issue.
not road legel though
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Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
4WDbits wrote:Not having the 2 surfaces of the bead lock firmly clamped together is a massive weakening of the structure, and DANGEROUS.
When properly assembled there is shear force on the M6 bolts, when not properly assembled (ie a gap) there is a bending force on the M6 bolts, ie several orders of magnitude weaker.
Interesting and very valid point.
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viewtopic.php?f=18&t=33527&hilit=checker%2A
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=33527&hilit=checker%2A
Re: BEADLOCK RIMS FITTING PROBLEM
'DERANGED' hit the nail on the head - trimming the tyre.
Checked the old tyres and they have been trimmed/grind.
Used a flapper disk to skim 2 - 3 mm off bead.
Bead now 18mm thick same as removed tyres.
Bolted up ring - went round 4 times tightening bolts bit at a time and jobs done.
Was careful enough to ensure grinding was nice and even all around so problem solved !
Cheers
Checked the old tyres and they have been trimmed/grind.
Used a flapper disk to skim 2 - 3 mm off bead.
Bead now 18mm thick same as removed tyres.
Bolted up ring - went round 4 times tightening bolts bit at a time and jobs done.
Was careful enough to ensure grinding was nice and even all around so problem solved !
Cheers
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