Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Hi ORErs, the body on my truck is about to go to the scrappy (not worth repairing all the pillars and putting a new roof and floor on etc ), so I found another body which is pretty mint.
Main question is what's the best way to protect it before I put it back on?
Should I steam clean inside and out, then degrease/dry/underseal in and out?
Should I use chassis paint/por15/engineers etch primer etc (over top of existing paint)?
What products have you used that stand the bashing/drowning/hits we give them?
Had opinions from lots of non pros so keen to hear what the real experts say.
Cheers
Main question is what's the best way to protect it before I put it back on?
Should I steam clean inside and out, then degrease/dry/underseal in and out?
Should I use chassis paint/por15/engineers etch primer etc (over top of existing paint)?
What products have you used that stand the bashing/drowning/hits we give them?
Had opinions from lots of non pros so keen to hear what the real experts say.
Cheers
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Interested to hear as well. Be good to have you out with us again
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
most important thing to do is to remove the rust that is there mate, what is a little spot today is a big hole tomorrow putting $100+ a litre por15 over the top of paint is a waste of money por15 has to adhere directly to metal and you have to apply all their rust converter prep before hand
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Mattman wrote:Interested to hear as well. Be good to have you out with us again
Yeah matt always fun, you got your new toy?
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
derk wrote:most important thing to do is to remove the rust that is there mate, what is a little spot today is a big hole tomorrow putting $100+ a litre por15 over the top of paint is a waste of money por15 has to adhere directly to metal and you have to apply all their rust converter prep before hand
Cheers derk. It's got no rust at all in it at mo, I'm wanting to protect it as much as possible for the future so looking for recommendations
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
derk wrote:most important thing to do is to remove the rust that is there mate, what is a little spot today is a big hole tomorrow putting $100+ a litre por15 over the top of paint is a waste of money por15 has to adhere directly to metal and you have to apply all their rust converter prep before hand
POR-15 will go over existing painted areas as long as the existing surface is sound and the paint has been roughened up to help the POR-15 to adhere.
As with all surface coatings and painting the results only come through the time spent on the preparation before painting.
Another product to consider is Dinitrol underbody protection. Distributors in NZ are www.abe.co.nz and they have a good range of protection coatings etc.
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
^^^^
$100 a litre por15 is a bit extravagant to be splashing over already painted surfaces you can use $10-$15 paint or underseal for that
$100 a litre por15 is a bit extravagant to be splashing over already painted surfaces you can use $10-$15 paint or underseal for that
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Ralfie wrote:derk wrote:most important thing to do is to remove the rust that is there mate, what is a little spot today is a big hole tomorrow putting $100+ a litre por15 over the top of paint is a waste of money por15 has to adhere directly to metal and you have to apply all their rust converter prep before hand
POR-15 will go over existing painted areas as long as the existing surface is sound and the paint has been roughened up to help the POR-15 to adhere.
As with all surface coatings and painting the results only come through the time spent on the preparation before painting.
Another product to consider is Dinitrol underbody protection. Distributors in NZ are http://www.abe.co.nz and they have a good range of protection coatings etc.
Thanks Ralfie - any advice on surface prep and which of the products to use for what? No idea re body stuff, mechanics and electronics I can do never done panel and paint before
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
derk wrote:^^^^
$100 a litre por15 is a bit extravagant to be splashing over already painted surfaces you can use $10-$15 paint or underseal for that
Ok whats best to do prep wise before I go putting underseal everywhere? Bit green at this stuff want to do it right though cheers
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Dinitrol Wax underbody, Ultimate will be Zinc/ galvanising.
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Colinl wrote:Dinitrol Wax underbody, Ultimate will be Zinc/ galvanising.
Thanks Colinl, cant quite justify the galvanising so looking for other ideas
What sort of prep is required before the wax application? The shell has no carpet or hood lining etc, so can I use the wax on the internal floor/roof as well as inside the guards/pillars/doors etc? Can the wax be sprayed or is it brush only? Do you apply the wax as is and leave it or do you paint or apply something else over the top?
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Wax inside can get pretty messy.
Why not just spray on tub liner internaly + a can of cavity wax for doors & sills.
Dinitrol do some good products for underbody
Dinitrol ML Dries to a soft brown wax. good for a general cover everything, wax doesn't harden rubber seals etc.
Man use this on their new HX60 trucks, they cover literally everything from electrical looms, axles, ball joints, rails in this stuff.
I can pick at it with my nails and its like a thick squishy coating so should take stone chips well & easily repairable by spraying more one.
http://www.abe.co.nz/productitems.php?i ... e97ba20db2
http://www.abe.co.nz/edit/ftpuploads/69 ... %20TDS.pdf
Just degrease, rust free & spray on with a spray gun.
Why not just spray on tub liner internaly + a can of cavity wax for doors & sills.
Dinitrol do some good products for underbody
Dinitrol ML Dries to a soft brown wax. good for a general cover everything, wax doesn't harden rubber seals etc.
Man use this on their new HX60 trucks, they cover literally everything from electrical looms, axles, ball joints, rails in this stuff.
I can pick at it with my nails and its like a thick squishy coating so should take stone chips well & easily repairable by spraying more one.
http://www.abe.co.nz/productitems.php?i ... e97ba20db2
http://www.abe.co.nz/edit/ftpuploads/69 ... %20TDS.pdf
Just degrease, rust free & spray on with a spray gun.
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Have a squiz at this.
http://funrover.com/guides/how-to-use-d ... and-rover/
Note this level of treatment in only required for land rovers
I hear of some owners bolting zinc blocks to their vehicle since they like spend so much time in salt water ha ha
http://funrover.com/guides/how-to-use-d ... and-rover/
Note this level of treatment in only required for land rovers
I hear of some owners bolting zinc blocks to their vehicle since they like spend so much time in salt water ha ha
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Colinl wrote:Have a squiz at this.
http://funrover.com/guides/how-to-use-d ... and-rover/
Note this level of treatment in only required for land rovers
I hear of some owners bolting zinc blocks to their vehicle since they like spend so much time in salt water ha ha
Awesome just what I needed thanks a heap Colinl
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
See this thread
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=38409&p=405080&hilit=+rust#p405080
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=38409&p=405080&hilit=+rust#p405080
88SWB GQ TD Turbo, 35's, lockers
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Check out Lanotec. Not that cheap but could work.
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Craydiver wrote:See this thread
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=38409&p=405080&hilit=+rust#p405080
thanks - good to get the right advice from a metal expert no rusty bits in it at all so i'll use the chemy stuff to protect it
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
tycho wrote:Check out Lanotec. Not that cheap but could work.
thanks looking at all the options now
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
OK after some light reading I found this real-world test:
http://www.classicsmonthly.com/2012/11/05/cavity-waxes-on-test/ & http://www.auson.se/sites/default/files/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk.pdf
and this sciency test:
http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/32/PG-BH13-001.pdf
looking like either the Noxudol 700 or the Bilt-Hamber Dynax-S50 is the go cavity wax wise - inside the pillars, doors, body panels and everywhere else I can get to where the waterblaster won't go. Both used in UK where salty roads are a regular thing so gotta be a good thing for those who like teaching their 4wds to swim...*cough*
As far as underbody & chassis goes OVER EXISTING PAINT, the Dinitrol 4941 or the Bilt-Hamber Dynax-UB seems to get the nod, after a suitable hot pressure wash with degreaser and prep via a wire brush etc, then rust converter (RC900 Dinitrol or Hydrate-80 B-H). Dinitrol is available here as pointed out above (cheers had a good chat to them today), B-H ex UK.
If it was a bare-metal underbody/chassis job (bead blasted or whatever) then I'd be using this stuff: http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-paint/c28117/
For inside, I'm thinking some paint stripper then then the epoxy mastic above, then a topcoat, although the paint is perfect...
Thanks for your help everyone will give this body beating thingy a go ha
http://www.classicsmonthly.com/2012/11/05/cavity-waxes-on-test/ & http://www.auson.se/sites/default/files/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk.pdf
and this sciency test:
http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/32/PG-BH13-001.pdf
looking like either the Noxudol 700 or the Bilt-Hamber Dynax-S50 is the go cavity wax wise - inside the pillars, doors, body panels and everywhere else I can get to where the waterblaster won't go. Both used in UK where salty roads are a regular thing so gotta be a good thing for those who like teaching their 4wds to swim...*cough*
As far as underbody & chassis goes OVER EXISTING PAINT, the Dinitrol 4941 or the Bilt-Hamber Dynax-UB seems to get the nod, after a suitable hot pressure wash with degreaser and prep via a wire brush etc, then rust converter (RC900 Dinitrol or Hydrate-80 B-H). Dinitrol is available here as pointed out above (cheers had a good chat to them today), B-H ex UK.
If it was a bare-metal underbody/chassis job (bead blasted or whatever) then I'd be using this stuff: http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-paint/c28117/
For inside, I'm thinking some paint stripper then then the epoxy mastic above, then a topcoat, although the paint is perfect...
Thanks for your help everyone will give this body beating thingy a go ha
Last edited by zed on Thu Aug 27, 2015 2:09 am, edited 4 times in total.
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
zed wrote:Mattman wrote:Interested to hear as well. Be good to have you out with us again
Yeah matt always fun, you got your new toy?
Not yet - you got much left to get your truck running again?
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Mattman wrote:zed wrote:Mattman wrote:Interested to hear as well. Be good to have you out with us again
Yeah matt always fun, you got your new toy?
Not yet - you got much left to get your truck running again?
Ok how long till you get it?. It's running now has been for ages. Have been teaching my son to drive his one up in the hills where we play
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Nice one
Decided I definitely need to sell my current truck before picking up another one! Can't afford two trucks haha.
Decided I definitely need to sell my current truck before picking up another one! Can't afford two trucks haha.
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Mattman wrote:Nice one
Decided I definitely need to sell my current truck before picking up another one! Can't afford two trucks haha.
Lol...mine must have been breeding...got three atm...
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Hey Zed.
Looks like it's you've got the homework done on which products are good. I've been out of the industry for a few years now so I won't offer an opinion on which particular brands/ products on the market currently are considered the best.
Just two things you may want to consider that I don't think anyone's mentioned yet.
I'd be very wary of steam cleaning as the steam has a way of finding it's way into every nook, cranny and double skinned area on the vehicle. I've seen a lot of vehicles doomed to an early grave by overly enthusiastic steam cleaning. Mainly Jap imports that the chaps at MAF have steam cleaned to death to get rid of foreign nasties, but also a few DIY restorations where the owner thinks they've done everything possible to rust proof their vehicle but have left moisture in the seams after steam cleaning and then sealed it in with paint/ wax whatever to do it's corrosive best. I'd only recommend steam cleaning a body shell if you can be really sure of getting it completely bone dry afterwards - A few days in baking hot summer sun or in a bake oven.
Whichever product you decide to use inside the shell (Dinitrol, cavity wax etc) make sure it doesn't block up the drainage channels in the sills etc. Before painting I'd go around all the drainage channels and open up any the have been bashed flat. After doing the painting /waxing whichever you decide to do, I'd go around all the drainage channels and make sure they're clear. Also drain tubes, particularly the ones that run from sliding rear windows - they have a nasty habit of dislodging or blocking up and leaving water sitting in the window runner channel or dripping into the sills.
Cheers
Looks like it's you've got the homework done on which products are good. I've been out of the industry for a few years now so I won't offer an opinion on which particular brands/ products on the market currently are considered the best.
Just two things you may want to consider that I don't think anyone's mentioned yet.
I'd be very wary of steam cleaning as the steam has a way of finding it's way into every nook, cranny and double skinned area on the vehicle. I've seen a lot of vehicles doomed to an early grave by overly enthusiastic steam cleaning. Mainly Jap imports that the chaps at MAF have steam cleaned to death to get rid of foreign nasties, but also a few DIY restorations where the owner thinks they've done everything possible to rust proof their vehicle but have left moisture in the seams after steam cleaning and then sealed it in with paint/ wax whatever to do it's corrosive best. I'd only recommend steam cleaning a body shell if you can be really sure of getting it completely bone dry afterwards - A few days in baking hot summer sun or in a bake oven.
Whichever product you decide to use inside the shell (Dinitrol, cavity wax etc) make sure it doesn't block up the drainage channels in the sills etc. Before painting I'd go around all the drainage channels and open up any the have been bashed flat. After doing the painting /waxing whichever you decide to do, I'd go around all the drainage channels and make sure they're clear. Also drain tubes, particularly the ones that run from sliding rear windows - they have a nasty habit of dislodging or blocking up and leaving water sitting in the window runner channel or dripping into the sills.
Cheers
Re: Advice needed rustproofing/undersealing
Gyxx wrote:Hey Zed.
Looks like it's you've got the homework done on which products are good. I've been out of the industry for a few years now so I won't offer an opinion on which particular brands/ products on the market currently are considered the best.
Just two things you may want to consider that I don't think anyone's mentioned yet.
I'd be very wary of steam cleaning as the steam has a way of finding it's way into every nook, cranny and double skinned area on the vehicle. I've seen a lot of vehicles doomed to an early grave by overly enthusiastic steam cleaning. Mainly Jap imports that the chaps at MAF have steam cleaned to death to get rid of foreign nasties, but also a few DIY restorations where the owner thinks they've done everything possible to rust proof their vehicle but have left moisture in the seams after steam cleaning and then sealed it in with paint/ wax whatever to do it's corrosive best. I'd only recommend steam cleaning a body shell if you can be really sure of getting it completely bone dry afterwards - A few days in baking hot summer sun or in a bake oven.
Whichever product you decide to use inside the shell (Dinitrol, cavity wax etc) make sure it doesn't block up the drainage channels in the sills etc. Before painting I'd go around all the drainage channels and open up any the have been bashed flat. After doing the painting /waxing whichever you decide to do, I'd go around all the drainage channels and make sure they're clear. Also drain tubes, particularly the ones that run from sliding rear windows - they have a nasty habit of dislodging or blocking up and leaving water sitting in the window runner channel or dripping into the sills.
Cheers
Excellent advice thanks...hadn't thought about how long the water from a steam clean would hang around. Do really want to hit the underside though as it was a leaky diesel and there's oil and trans fluid everywhere...which hopefully means the underside is rust free!
I've cleaned out and checked most of the drain holes but good call on the sliders...will make sure they are flushed out first as I wasnt planning on a full strip down (glass out etc)
Cheers
IFS all the way...go the mark 1 Pajero!
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