WOF

[85County]

Well i have made choice to come home. been in aussie for 7 years and the laws over here are becoming more and more anti Kiwi, nor is it the lucky country any-more.

But i have been gone for longer than that, living and working in some of the worlds shit holes.

i intend to bring my 85 110 4bd1 with me. its actually quite cheep to do.

but my concerns at the mods and what is acceptable in NZ as opposed to the effectively no rules in SA.

boogie is gone
no sway bar
126ltr fule tank
LPG fumigation
front dislocation cones

TJM original bull-bar,
winch
duel battery's
solar panels and roof rack
lockers

and sitting on 33" 12.5 R15 BFGs. now im up for new rubber, so if i have to slot down to 10.5 ko2s that would not be bad, just can i keep the R15 or do i have to go back to R16?

all help would be appreciated.

[85County]

oh and a couple of picks

[mercutio]

check out this document gives you a brief outline of when you need to get a lvv cert.

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

[UBZ]

Only issue I see is the front dislocation cones . Springs have to be retained or held by mounts at full droop on the hoist .

They might also pull you up on any aftermarket steering components .
and possibly require new brake hoses , pads and rotors .

I would go with factory rims and tyre size ie 235/85/16

also make sure it is really really clean

[85County]

Only issue I see is the front dislocation cones . Springs have to be retained or held by mounts at full droop on the hoist .

They might also pull you up on any aftermarket steering components .
and possibly require new brake hoses , pads and rotors .

I would go with factory rims and tyre size ie 235/85/16

also make sure it is really really clean

Hay big thanks.

brake hoses are new and braided, and longer

i can pull out the cones and just drop in the std length shocks up front.

she is 1985, wheels were thin and Bar treads. or could i get away with the modern or latter model wheels and rubber?

any thoughts on the bullbar, i read that it cannot be to far forward, mine is std for the year but there is a lot of air in between

[Mudde1]

Have a look here. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/importing-a-vehicle/ All you need to know. Vehicle will be an MC class vehicle. Look carefully at the section on emission standards and frontal impact standards. Could be a complex process getting it road legal.

[coxsy]

why would they make it hard to drive it here if he's had for a more the five years,it s his truck,

[BlakeNZ]

there is several of those australian army type land rovers already in NZ, mate. (with the Isuzu diesel conversion etc) so I'm sure it will be do-able.
Your modern tires won't be an issue.

[85County]

there is several of those australian army type land rovers already in NZ, mate. (with the Isuzu diesel conversion etc) so I'm sure it will be do-able.
Your modern tires won't be an issue.

ok what's the story on them?? the grapevine over here is that Grays came a bit of a cropper on bring these in to NZ??

[85County]

Have a look here. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/importing-a-vehicle/ All you need to know. Vehicle will be an MC class vehicle. Look carefully at the section on emission standards and frontal impact standards. Could be a complex process getting it road legal.

thanks its a 1985/ oct. so apart from seat belts seems nothing applys

[DieselBoy]

Have a look here. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/importing-a-vehicle/ All you need to know. Vehicle will be an MC class vehicle. Look carefully at the section on emission standards and frontal impact standards. Could be a complex process getting it road legal.

thanks its a 1985/ oct. so apart from seat belts seems nothing applys

Correct

They will put it up on a hoist, have a poke around looking at all WOF related items, bushes, bearings, ball joints, rust, brakes, brake hoses, suspension, lights, wipers, seat belts all the usual stuff.

As UBZ said, they get a bit funny about us L.R folk and our dislocation cones, they don't seem to understand that the point of the cone is to hold the spring captive so it can't fall out. They freak out when the hoist goes up and all four of your springs come loose at one

The other thing you mentioned is the braided brake hoses. Few years back they got funny about those and pretty much band them altogether. They might not like that.

My advice is get it really clean and pretty, especially underneath with half a dozen cans of black paint. Make it look like a really nice truck, as standard as possible because they aren't going to have another stock truck there to compare it to. Make it low key, not screaming lifted modified Defender on 33's!!!! Then take it in for inspection and just do what ever they want.

Can lend you set of stock rims and 750 16's and a set of standard springs if they picky!!

[Ralfie]

Only issue I see is the front dislocation cones . Springs have to be retained or held by mounts at full droop on the hoist .

They might also pull you up on any aftermarket steering components .
and possibly require new brake hoses , pads and rotors .

I would go with factory rims and tyre size ie 235/85/16

also make sure it is really really clean

Hay big thanks.

brake hoses are new and braided, and longer

i can pull out the cones and just drop in the std length shocks up front.

she is 1985, wheels were thin and Bar treads. or could i get away with the modern or latter model wheels and rubber?

any thoughts on the bullbar, i read that it cannot be to far forward, mine is std for the year but there is a lot of air in between

Vehicle will need to go through compliance and also certification for the modifications.

Braided brake hoses are OK as long as they are sheathed (have cover over the braided hose) and with proper crimped fittings.
Relocation/dislocation cones are also OK, plenty of vehicles have them and have passed certification.

Regards your basic list, I don't see anything in there that is likely to cause a problem, including current tyre size and bulbar.

Biggest thing is to ensure that it is not rusty, especially in chassis, bulkhead and doors.

[85County]

well the brake lines are not sheathed, so.

i am not a fan of lift, not needed with what i do, having said that a 85 110 is lower than a puma ( and heaver)

i had already red the " non std shock mounts. so the twin shocks will have to go, that's a given

std shocks will fix the dislocation

will do a blast though the Simpson next year when the place opens again, that's good for a sand blasting job underneath, then hit it with the black cans.



question, i have removed the rear sway bar. is this an issue?

[Ralfie]

well the brake lines are not sheathed, so.

i am not a fan of lift, not needed with what i do, having said that a 85 110 is lower than a puma ( and heaver)

i had already red the " non std shock mounts. so the twin shocks will have to go, that's a given

std shocks will fix the dislocation

will do a blast though the Simpson next year when the place opens again, that's good for a sand blasting job underneath, then hit it with the black cans.



question, i have removed the rear sway bar. is this an issue?

Non standard suspension parts are OK, they just need to be certified, along with the twin shock mounts.

There are vehicles here that have been certified for road use that use long travel plus 5 inch shocks, revised shock mounts, twin shocks.
Even wheel spacers are legal if certified, generally they need to be hub centric though.

If brake hoses are unsheathed then its only a small cost to get replacements that comply. Either from suppliers or they can be custom made here for around $120 each (last time I priced some up).

Regards sway bar, given age of vehicle, sway bars were probably optional back then so as long as it drives, handles OK, then it will pass with out it. I took mine off and have had no problems with 50mm lift springs and shocks.

[85County]

thanks guys

ok my current thinking is strip a lot of the goodies out.

two reasons, she will be on the boat for 4 days, i want to arrive get her back and strait to the testing station, all paper work in hand

the other reason, she has been built they way i like her But more importantly she has been built for here. like mamaku ranges for example are what south Australian call mountains. there is no Kaimai or Hast Pass or any thing resembling same.

so she wallows and sways on the road, she is really soft and has never seen mud, twin shocks are for hours of corrugated roads at speed. i have seen a toymotor burn out because of a shock the got to hot. i can not imagine such conditions in NZ

in short i do not know what sort of set-up i will need, hence my other Rubber thread. but i do know that my current set-up will be a bit uncomfortable on any twisty roads.

so i am interested in what springs native 110 are running. i have the std isuzu front with are softer than the mill ones, rear i have the 280/ 415 compound puma springs

[DieselBoy]

Disco Rears up front, standard 110 in the rear with 50mm spacers, no sway bars, Single EFS shocks, rear shock droppers, extended front bump stops.

I did 30,000km round Aus in 4months with it last year, Cape, Simpson, Tanamai, Canning, Gibb River, Strezelecky etc and a billion corrugated dirt roads in between.

The truck weighed in at 3050kg fully loaded to the brim, 6 wheels, tools, spares, food, 90L water, 165L of Diesel and three people. We had to take it easy on the dirt compared to the mad Aussy buggers, the would be way more loaded, with a trailer and do 100k's on the corrugated dirt roads. Sometimes I dropped to 20kph for hundreds of km on end as the suspension wouldn't take it!! Saying that, the shocks survived although the rears would fade pretty quick if pushed

I was going for soft and flexi to soak up the corrugations. That worked fine traveling slowly, but if you wanted to go fast, it was to soft, and any decent undulation or pot hole etc would see the bump stops getting pounded.

That set up works much better here. When you do get out and about, for 99.9% of your traveling your on Tar seal crawling along at 90kph stuck behind city folks freaking out at being on the open road, Tourists confused as to which side of the road they should be on and Milk tankers being monitored by big brother, electronically speed limited to 90kph, then when you do get off road a little bit, its all about ground clearance in ruts, crawling around slowly in low range and getting lots of traction, so soft and flexi with big tyres and lockers is king!!

Not WOF related, but they are super anti any kind of camping over here too. You can stay at a big camp ground, or at little DOC camp sites and anything other than that is frowned uppon. As a result, keeping your vehicle very low key and ordinary looking and being devious is a necessity if your into back country touring over here

[85County]

yes that all makes sence
i haven't done the strezelecky, do not even know what it is.

ok i run std front springs but being an isuzu they are harder to start with, front bump stops are std 1" lower to clear the isuzu sump ( this is the ADF perente setup) shocks are toymotor 60 series pattern this gives about 2" more travel. but will drop the spring out.

std 200-td5 rear springs are 330KG i run the puma's 280/415 which are longer open, behave much nicer, infact a big improvement. if i remember correctly the original springs with the Boogie set-up were only 240kg and swaybar. rear springs are ADF, thay look stock but have a bigger bore and 1 1/2 more travel.

as a result i have almost or un noticeable std ride hight but a lot more drop in my axles

even then she is a bit wallows about a bit. the twin shocks tamed this and also sorted out the shock fade to a point

i would guess you have about 1 meter of articulation cnr to cnr, where i have about 1250 but you have more ground clearance, about 1 1/2".

but it all make sense,.

NB dropping to the 15" rims in 8" meant that i would drop to 20 psi on the corrugated roads, for hours on end

thanks for your post informative

[LR90NZ]

i haven't done the strezelecky, do not even know what it is.

NB dropping to the 15" rims in 8" meant that i would drop to 20 psi on the corrugated roads, for hours on end

thanks for your post informative

Strzelecki Desert is in South Australia. The Strzelecki track runs roughly from Innamincka to Lyndhurst. Unfortunately now getting tar sealed and not so much the infamous dirt track it used to be.

Interested to know why you consider going to 15x8 inch rims and tyres are better for dropping tyre pressures on corrugated roads?

[lax2wlg]

It looks like a very cool rig. I especially like the galvanized body cappings. Correct me if I'm wrong but is the colour scheme Masai red?

When I was really young my parents had two 110 counties just like this, except with the 3.5. Also a Stage one V8. They were the 2nd owners of a company in Queenstown called NZ Nomad Safaris, which would do daily trips into mace town, skippers canyon and sefferstown. The running costs were quite high with all the river work, but the vehicles never ever let them down, even with 10 people on board. Our competitor was an Aussie guy called Outback tours, who ran three LC Troop Carriers. The subsequent owner bought him out and now has the biggest fleet of commercially used LRs in NZ. He cashed in bigtime on The Lord of the rings tourism boom.

So seeing this rig is very nostalgic. Good work.

[85County]

Venetian Red, according to a Google search.

in years gone by i would cut polish etc and she looked quite nice, but that's close to a decade ago and i was running out of paint ( to thin), plus the sun is quite hard over here.

most cars at around 10 years have no clear coat on the roof or bonnet.


reading the above advice, i decided to make the chassis look like new, bling bling. so a few cans of wattle rust kill in black, cans of degreaser and a water blaster.

4 car ramps makes it not so hard on the elbows.

1st clean ended up with 6 buckets of crap on the drive way, second clean only the 1. my eyes are full of crap but at lest the wet concrete is not to hot to lay on.

Now for the last few year i have been quite proud that MY "COUNTY" is rust fee. pride before the fall. that one little paint blister on the rear cross member has turned into this

not to hard a job, 150x50x2 galv and a bit of 2mm flat bar. the silly thing is i got a Length of RHS a few years ago and made up 3 sets. and gave/swapped them away, GGGRRR

[lax2wlg]

F**n mint mate.

[coxsy]

with all that crap out from underneath. load limit has raised a bit

[85County]

yeppa i was thinking of spring spacers, but not now, no need

[85County]

ok after a few days of mulling things over and getting prices.

a galv replacement from pommyland about 2K by the time i get it here.

second hand chassis and get that galvanised, again about 21/2K but a hell of a lot of work

so i have got the local sheet metal shop to cut out some cold roll for me, just the ends, i will fold and box in myself, make it a closed box and fill it with fish oil should do the trick.