Diesel engine options & conversion costs

[Flyingpony]

My Land Rover Series 2a is fitted with a petrol Holden 186. I'm thinking about changing it to diesel so she can be more water fording compliant and when I fit triple tanks, have less explosive fuel under my seat.

Besides the outlay for an engine, what kind of money are we talking about here to get the conversion done?

Are there any diesel engines which virtually bolt right up to my existing engine conversion?

I know many Landy's have LD28 in them, what about the RD28 sister engine? Is the RD28/LD28 any good or gutless? From a brief search, the RD28 is half the price of an LD28.

Which model engine would be a good fit against the standard drive train and have similar power output of a Holden 186?

This is a simplistic car, so the diesel engine will have to run without any fancy electronic black boxes. Glowplugs can be manually controlled, so that leaves just the fuel injection system, I suppose.

Do indicate if you know the engine to be biodiesel compliant

Many thanks.

[Windsock]

My Land Rover Series 2a is fitted with a petrol Holden 186. I'm thinking about changing it to diesel so she can be more water fording compliant and when I fit triple tanks, have less explosive fuel under my seat.

Besides the outlay for an engine, what kind of money are we talking about here to get the conversion done?

This is an old school land rover engine conversion. Used to do these in the 80's, and did one 18months ago on my 110 for old times sake and for the simplicity you are looking for.

Adapter plates for series to Nissan LD engines are getting very hard to find without getting an old series conversion and wrecking for parts. I got my one from the old fella in Paeroa that used to cast them in the 80's and had one sitting in the back of his shed. It was the last one. Expect to pay anywhere around $300-600 at the wreckers should you be lucky to find one. Best bet is the former suggestion, find an old LD28 in a series on TM and wreck it for the parts required - costs vary considerably.

LD28s usually go for between $300-600 on TM and I wouldn't pay anymore than that unless it has receipted overhaul work on it.

Engine mounts are very little hassle to make as the chassis mounts are virtually in-line with the engine mounts. Radiator is no problem either as most of the inlets and outlets line up also.

Watch the sump! Sometimes you can pick up LD28s with mid or rear sump bowls and these are better. With trimming the front sump bowl will work and this is what I have. I am aiming to replace this one day with a rear sump bowl one day.

Wiring was my problem and I got someone to do that for me so it was one less hassle for me. All up I think I paid about $1000 for the conversion materials - engine included. I did all the work myself.

Are there any diesel engines which virtually bolt right up to my existing engine conversion?

I know many Landy's have LD28 in them, what about the RD28 sister engine? Is the RD28/LD28 any good or gutless? From a brief search, the RD28 is half the price of an LD28.

I got my current LD28 for $100 in the car so got the loom and all the other bits I needed as well. Lucky find and one that only pops up now and then. LD28 - 95hp at 4400rpm, redline in the Laurel car is 5000rpm, and 125ftlb at 2300rpm. Very flat torque curve. 2800cc is approx equivalent to 171 cu in so would be a step back from the 186 cu in. I am happy with what I have under the bonnet and have no issues with getting to where I need to go - I don't need a mortage or an overdraft to run it - 12l/100km. I would like more horsepower from time to time but it is my daily drive and I have no problems driving long distance in it either so - gutless or whatever - well, that is a relative term and is up to the driver.

LD28 is a chain driven OHC and is very simple mechanically, no mysteries. Injector pumps are getting long in the tooth these days and will most likely need new seals and recalibrating with the low sulpher fuels. Injector pumps are belt driven and these need careful attention from time to time. Cover of the belt is mounted such that water and mud can get in so this needs to be watched for wear from time to time but has not been an issue on my one and I cross a lot of water.

I have heard that the RD28 is slightly weaker and has the usual alloy head problems. The LD28 is all steel and is the one to go for if you have the option. RD28s are usually turbo'ed whereas putting a turbo on an LD28 is a bit of an issue but can be done using the manifold off the L28 from a 280Z.

Which model engine would be a good fit against the standard drive train and have similar power output of a Holden 186?

This is a simplistic car, so the diesel engine will have to run without any fancy electronic black boxes. Glowplugs can be manually controlled, so that leaves just the fuel injection system, I suppose.

Do indicate if you know the engine to be biodiesel compliant

Many thanks.

LD28s have no black boxes which is one of the key reasons I chose it over anything else - that and the fact I got it for $100 I also got 2 spare motors - one for $400 (runner) and the other for $250 (parts) I think.

The LD28s require certain maintenance that'll keep them running sweet - but in this they are no different from any other motor - they are however fairly reliable and robust and generally keep ticking over all day.

Biodiesel is an interesting fuel to make and is a term mis-used by many. I assume you are talking about distilled vege oils with the glycerols removed leaving the esters

Viton is a material often quoted as being resistent to it but Bosch - Zexel (the makers of the Nissan LD28 injector pump (IP)) do not explicitly make viton seals - if they do it is not stated on any of their product info sheets. Individual viton seals can be picked up from various manufacturers (mostly states side and Europe) if you know the sizes but the main top cover seal and the main shaft seal are not readily available in viton and need to be custom ordered - very pricey. I have just recently had my IP resealed and recalibrated and the seals came from Japan - genuine Bosch - Zexel parts. I would assume they are compliant with the various blends of mineral diesel and biodiesel available in Japan and Europe as I would not imagine a manufacturing plant making seals for different countries - would they? The Bocsh Zexel VE pump used on the LD28 shares many parts with the same VE pumps used on VWs in Europe and the America's.

As far as running the LD28 on biodiesel it'll go bang just like mineral diesel and the IP is the only component that'll suffer if not equipped with either new seals or viton.

All the best.

[Flyingpony]

Awesome post Windsock. Many thanks!

[vvega]

Awesome post Windsock. Many thanks!

agreed
very comprehensive and probably should do in the tech section .. so that its always there