1988 according to my signature. Bought as project/ basis for a build but that's not happening now. The bad: previous owner(s): was on west coast - body rust in the usual places possibly more, none structural afaik. bodged electrics, and I've added a bit more bodge. hazards don't work. intermittenent ...

Good to know. Common failure. I think it's a zener diode that fails, which seems to be unobtanium now...

This forum needs a "like" feature.

Kakahi is also a cool little spot.

Unfortunately the nature of forums.

7 seat high roof TD42 manual I'll be parting with if that's the kind of thing you're into

Yeah well. Didn't find the short. But ran new wiring.

As title...does anyone know if there's a common failure point on this wiring?

The haynes shows that the RH is directly earthed, but the LH is earthed through a "dip/dim module"... any clues where I might find that?

Ah, correction to my initial post. It is the turbo engine. Was reading about the harmonic balance delete. What is the real benefit? From what I have read, just removing the balance belt, would: a) possibly increase engine vibration but b) reduce resistance for the motor That's pretty much the gist ...

Looks pretty tidy. Those engines benefit from deleting harmonic balance shaft, EGR, and adding turbo!

1999 LN167

Drivers door and front guard. Mint would be good but minor repair OK.
Wanted around whangarei, can travel within reason or pay shipping.

Placeholder Thread for a writeup. Basically, got the donk out and swapped the 32 year old OEM clutch (riding rivets :shock: ) for a nicely paddled and very bitey 4-terrain. But have since lost tail and cluster lights, and wipers. So into the column and relays today to hunt the evil electrical ...

Couldn't tell ya, I have no such senders on the TD42.
I'll have a nose through the manual and see if it mentions.

Presumably one tells hot and one tells cold, could be for intercooler/turbo/EGT sensor, or the lower one a water level alarm or...?
No loose wires/plugs there that look like they fit?

Nice Job man. Shame it was wasted on a toyota

I've got a nissan that needs that kind of love...you're inspiring!

Just a massive thanks to BlakeNZ. Took the time to go and have a look and wouldn't even accept a box of beers for the effort. Top bloke.

Deciding on a 2 Post hoist. Jeez wish I had your problems :D A pit/ramp pit will be a whole lot cheaper and easier and may even fit where you are. You'll need a good foundation for a hoist. I wouldn't expect you could bolt it to the average garage floor. Second hand 3ph gear I would generally expect ...

hey that's close to me, can check it out. Might take a patrol mate with me, who knows these rigs. The description sounds pretty honest, and obviously hasn't put you off, so what exactly do you want checked? Test drive, motor, cooling system, suspension? I doubt it is totally flogged out , given ...

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars ... /284750813

Anyone here close?
Price is a bit above the odds, but vehicle is basically what I'm looking for. Would have to fly down and drive back, so wouldn't mind if someone could give it the once over before I do...

ZD is a nono.
QD not bad. More of a car engine than proper 4x one.
Pretty hard to go past the old TDs.

12.7 is low and may be drawing down too much current, causing voltage drop tripping out the cutoff.
Primary side should be 14.4 when running.

Hilux or L200, maybe Narvas or Mazda Bs
Ideally tray will accomodate full sheets of ply/GIB but we can frame up a wellside.
Rough OK within reason, WOF/Reg required.

FWIW I run a K&N washable/oiled filter in mine. Spend a lot of time on gravel, and manage to pick up all kinds of road grime sludgy crap as well. When performance (such as it is ) drops off I generally give it oil and filters.

What's the IP? Once this gets too technical I need to seek professional help but it's worth trying a few obvious things first :D Injector pump. Is one banjo bolt on the fuel feed into it, spring and mesh filter underneath. Easy enough to get to. Need fairly fine hook/pick to pull the screen out ...

If it's auto, I blame the box.

If not. How many KM since: Air cleaner? Injectors?
Check rubber lines/connections for vacuum leaks
There's also a secondary gauze filter atop the IP. Remove and clean.

One of the many reasons I avoid Autos.

Definitely keep it in lower gear. And If you can fit a trans-cooler, that's even better.

Y60. Based 40km North of Whangarei but will obviously pay shipping.

Grille and clips, L+R corner lights, LH quarter guard.

Any one with parts? or I'll just go trademe, or lube up and go see Dave

Screwdrivers, hex wrenches, circlip pliers.
Kero/petrol wash and grease to re-lube.

Yup sounds like sticking hub. In the olden times you would have to reverse off them. 93 shouldn't be an issue though. Tearing them down isn't hard and if they haven't been done since 93, probably overdue.

My wagon isn't fast enough to need a speedo :/

I know you discount backlash, but check it. Jack the back, 4th gear, have your apprentice turn it forward, then back. Look for slop in the uni's, loose hangers, if it's in diff then it'll have to be felt through the hub.

Sounds like time to start adding 2T to your fill ups - will keep the seals lubed and swollen. I also run Lucas upper cylinder cleaner/lube every few tanks.

The above is good advice, except they tend to rust on seams, not so easy to drill! There is a drain/bung/breather behind carpet on passenger side footwell (also exhaust manifold side) which you can poke wires through if you're precious about drilling. I can't remember if you have to remove the ...