Hi Crash
The chart makes it easier to work systemically thru diagnosis.
Much appreciated
Cheers

I think that I have had 2 issues simultaneously TPS was miles out of adjustment and voltage still not fully within specs ... but this has fixed the gear shift points and OD lockup clutch problem, but I still have full line pressure and no overrun clutch on Drive tested "Revolution sensor" OK "TPS ...

Thanks Darin. What was the price Nissan gave you as the only new ones I have been able to track down are on EBay and are $350 AU. It might be best if I grab someone else's TPS and try it first in case it is a faulty speed sensor or wiring . Was reluctant to buy 2nd hand in case that unit was also ...

Decided that it was most likely still a TPS problem and looking at them there appears to be more than 1 relay in it which could be giving trouble. My auto sparky said there are no after market ones made and will need to get a genuine one from Nissan. Rang Nissan and they said the TPS is not seperate ...

Cool !
Thanks

Thanks for that. Not quite sure how I check that with the mulitmeter. Interestingly when I checked the fault codes on it today I was only getting fault 3 - ( faulty throttle position sensor ). Fault 7 - ( speed sensor error ) seemed to be OK. Might have been a poor connection but ........ I am ...

Finally got a chance to do some testing. TPS was still at factory settings ( yellow paint on adjuster ). Readings were a mile out but managed to get them in the ball park by rotating TPS fully. 0.43 -> 3.85 ( recommended 0.5 -> 4.5 ). Gears now shift when they should and lockup on OD also comes on ...

Awesome ... thanks ChurchurDan :D Ha ha ... I found that manual online about midnight last night ... haven't had a chance to work through it though. Interesting that the other speed sensor comes from the instrument cluster as I had my rev counter repaired and thinking about it this problem occurred ...

Awesome ! Thanks for your help and comments "Crash" :D :D I will try " hard resetting " as you described ( might as well do the easiest first ) but if that fails will need to identify the 2 speed sensors. The two I saw above the trans shift lever sound like they might be for the " 4wd/2wd signal on ...

Thanks for your comments guys ... :D What "Crash" says seems to make sense, but what was throwing me off the track was the fact of the overrun not working on "D" but OK on the other gears. I assume the 2 sensors you are talking about are the ones on the left side of the auto just above the shift ...

I have a couple of weird auto problems with my 91 Safari 24v 4.2 Diesel RE4RO3A auto 1. It's reluctant to upshift into 2nd gear and needs a lot of revs to do so. When it does shift it does so very harshly ( not good ). Problem still exists if manually shifting the T bar from 1st to 2nd but I can ...

I tried it for a short period with the factory resistor disconnected before reconnecting it. Soon after that the over run clutch on Drive stopped working ( free wheels ) but works on the other gears including overdrive. I suspect it is electrical .... any thoughts. Where is the solenoid for the over ...

Yep ! ... found it straight away Thanks for that Crash .... it was literally right under my nose bolted to the RH inner guard beside the brake master cylinder. I just have to resolve another issue first that I have as the lockup clutch does not engage unless under hard throttle and I can't get the ...

Is this mod applicable for my 92 GQ RE4RO3A or is it for later model GU's as I don't appear to have a resister
Thanks

that sounds like a challenge dude .........have we got some pussy tracks for you ..........give us a yell when your keen to prove us wrong in rallywoods id like to see that

OH ! .... I do love stirring

I agree with Darin that reducing your travel with the bump stops is not a good idea. My criteria was to keep it low and increase the flex in the front end. I did the same as Darin using a 50mm spring lift and 80 series shocks with a 60mm shock tower extension. (Made my shock towers longer as you ...

Man ! those cross pins are solid. I'me surprised that broke. The 4 small pins in my LOKKA shore off when I broke a front hub. 4WD systems and our NZ importer will tell you that the pins will only shear off if the setup clearances are out of spec BUT .... my diff is MINT with no wear and all ...

He lives in Auckland. Somebody really needs to make contact with him to have a drive and get a better description of the fault. I am picking there could be more than one issue here.

Thanks for that info Jeremy
All sorted

I reckon you have got the lift blocks in the right place as you need the original mounting collar on top of the rubber to limit side movement ... BUT those lift blocks are FAR to small a diameter. They need to be at least as big as the collar on top of the rubber mount otherwise there is far to much ...

Neat photo guys.
Congratulations and best wishes

Thanks for that Jeremy .... Will pm Dumbass is the clutch the same as a normal winches freespool.. in essence? I haven't seen it myself but apparently it is. All or part of the standard hub is replaced with this other one that replaces the standard rotating action to that of a push/pull one to ...

I also have a customer (not the same fella i feel) that is after sdomething similar as well, so any info will be much appreciated Hi Euan ..... am just posting this for Peter R It's amazing what a little friendly "teams winch challenge" does for getting the motivation rekindled for doing some of ...

My mate has been trying to track down a replacement item for the clutch on a GQ PTO winch which he saw advertised on TradeMe some time ago . It is a machined housing that replaces all or part of the standard engagement hub and converts the standard action to just a simple push/pull action which can ...

That is an extremely simplistic statement as far as suspension geometry is concerned, but for most this correct. When you get to working out rear arms, you have way more to consider than length, I agree Rokhound. It is not that simple and there are lots of variables. The whole question that has ...

if your engine sits behind your front axle then it is a mid mount longer wheel base for climbing and decending for sure is awesum!! longer wheel base reduces your ramp over coxy ask any LWB driver who gets bellied on stuff how that works and this vehicle will not suffer from ramp over problems so ...

For what it's worth I bought a DTS kit from Tauranga diesel and installed it myself. Good help and advice from the boys at Tauranga diesel. Absolutely awesome kit and performance. Very easy self install with the only fiddly bit being the 3" exhaust which are built for the LWB trucks so had to modify ...

Hey ! ... Thanks guys for all your good comments. I don't know if it was good luck or good management but I am very pleased with how it came up. .. A lot of the local Suzuki owners are nervous seeing it coming down the road toward them ... Still need to finish the grill as there is a gap on each ...

. Well it took a while to get around to it but finally had a chance on Sunday arvo to do a bit more. Still have to tidy the grill up and put some side bars on and bits and pieces but the basics are done. Will do something about the back at some stage but want to push the rear axle back 4 or 5 ...

Safari Swb wrote:what brand springs are you running and are you happy with them?? seems to be so many opinions on different brands of springs

OME springs and shocks.
They have been OK except the back left spring has sacked out abit.

Yeah plenty of different experiences and opinions on here about that sort of stuff