I just run the 457mm one of these http://www.chase.co.nz/category/105/Louvred-Centre-Tube on mine now, tho it is a little tractor sounding at lower rpm.
If ya want something a little quieter, I ran one of these http://www.chase.co.nz/part/582/0/RD41266 for ages, seem to handle the diesel vibrations no worries, and did sound a lot better than the hot dog does.

I need the odometer drive gears (or complete unit) for a diesel D21, tho I'm guessing a petrol will be the same. Or a complete dash I guess, but nothing else has to work on it.
Mine....um....fell out a while ago and I need to get it fixed to get the pinky removed.

Yup, if it feels like it's wagging it's tail it'll be rear arm bushes...common as.

The stock Terrano camber setup is wrong, it makes all the left fronts wear out the outer shoulder. Around here anyway. Post up your alignment measurements if you have them... Rancho 5000's will last 200+k, and still work ok....well....at least mine did. There's many things that cause 'scolloping ...

tweake wrote:with turbo's, as big as you can fit in there.

What this guy says. Turbo's like zero backpressure.

Who did ya see in whangarei? Go see Craig at firestone if ya haven't, he may be able to point you in the right direction.
Otherwise if ya coming this way, the tyre doctor is good, we use them too.

What variety of nuts are you after? There's a few different types...

tomsoffroad wrote:All the barwork is attached to the chassis Trev I've allowed enough clearence for the body to move around it.

How do you get the engine/radiator etc out? (or am I missing something?)

For off road/race stuff the camber bolts tend to work loose, I've had to weld a few in place. I'd die grind, fit a couple of heavy washers, set it then spot weld the washers in place to hold it.
Definitely don't fit 2 bolts on each side...

I run a M&H from STA autoparts on My Ford V8, good sound and cheap too. I used it as one of the boys at work has a Toyota V8 drifter with one on it, and it sounds mean as too.

The stock alloys are 15X7 @ 10p for the d21 and 15 or 16X7 @ about 35p or so for the r50...which one have you got?

It'd be pretty much like a tractor I think, simply rely on the rear to keep it all upright.

True, but Surfs (I think) use shank nuts with no taper, like some 100 series and Lexus. That's the one's I'm talking about, generally the oe one's have a taper at the bottom of the shank. Like this http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDAwWDQwMA==/z/v~wAAOxyUrZSs5C7/$_12.JPG Some may not tho...I guess I haven ...

Yeh, bnt or autolign, if ya get nolathane, you can burn/cut out the old one's, then the new one's just push in.

I know this seems obvious, but make sure you have the correct wheel nuts. Not sure what is stock on the Navara, but steel rims all use taper nuts. You do realize that most of those stock factory mag nuts, while not ideal, have a small taper at the bottom, and do work fine in steel rims? A lot of ...

otherwise if you are anywhere near Onehunga try Herb Morgan Tyres as have found them very good and know there stuff. Yeh, Fred and the boys are good. I can beat your 15 years Jono , I been doing it for 21 now, plus a few weeks here and there before that. But what is really important is to find ...

The only expensiv-ish parts on your list are those trailing arm bushes.
I'll see if i can find ya some prices...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Regal-Belott-Le ... 5d493cf952

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M18-x1-x1-5-or- ... 2a2d33d46e

There ya go, get yr own, not that expensive really.

No, not that.
Anyone that's genuinely interested in it I'll tell ya what it was for.
Or if you really must know, pm me.

Jeeezus, they let anyone in here don't they???
All good fulla. You 4x4ing now?

Take it back to them, they should fix it for you.
If not and you're anywhere near Manukau, pm me and I'll tell ya where to come to.

I'm looking at selling My old Terrano. Currently pink stickered, will need a bit of work/cert etc to get legal again. Reg on hold Lots of mods, Diesel turbo with intercooler etc fitted...look here; m 3" suspension lift, 2" body lift, 33"Nankangs (still plenty of life in 'em) on 10" steelies, near ...

Ask the tyre guys, they'll blame the suspension, ask the suspension guys and they'll blame the tyres. Having had a finger in both games, I think tyre design is the biggest culprit, some tyres are more prone to it than others (I challenge anyone to show me a Dunlop AT2 that isn't scolloped) and so ...

Just a wee note on the kl71 thing, We've been advised by the Kumho guys that you MUST run 45psi on the road to get decent mileage. No more, no less.

You're right, the nissan one's are .5mm bigger. There's a couple of options, you could simply drill/ream the holes bigger, or some aftermarket nuts are slightly undersized, so may work. Or We put inserts in them so you can use a standard taper nut, but it's usually too expensive for this sorta swap ...

Most 8's are -19 to -24. 10's are -44.
Adaptors are the go.

Cool, cheers guys.

I know it's been done, anyone point me in the right direction? Links for adaptors, what fits and doesn't etc etc I can make it all Myself if need be, but i'd rather not if I can get a kit, or the right stuff to start with. And it's a mates one so it'll all be done for free, or less... Cheers. btw, I ...

I've run Rancho's in my nissan since I've owned it (13 odd years). The first set have just been replaced (around 6 months ago now), and it has been treated like an offroader (jumps etc) on more than a few occasions. I wouldn't use anything else.

I have in my diesel . Never had any issues. 200000+ k's on it since I've owned it, and most of those with a k&n in it. These guys seem to be ok m for example...dunno if you plan to find anything dustier tho I changed mine because everytime I got water in the airbox it would cut out with the stock ...