Apologies, didn't realize it was a TD42-T pump that you had upgraded. In that case 20% increase over the standard turbo pump would be within the capacity of the factory turbo setup. So you ought to have plenty of scope for improvements with a turbo upgrade also.

I would encourage you to find out precisely what pump mods were done, as something seems a little amiss. Standard GQ pump uses 10mm plunger and from memory runs 57cc's of fuel per 1000 shots. Most 12mm plunger upgrades should be in the 100+ cc's relm. I know nothing of Landcruisers (other than what ...

Make sure its actually from decent hunting lines. There are plenty around that claim to be, yet some unfortunately are not. I've judged a number of them in hunting tests that I wouldn't even bother feeding! There are however, some crackers around.

What pump mods?

The winch and shafts etc are located inboard of the LHS chassis rail, so if you use an airbag compatible winch bar and then modify it to fit the PTO winch drum, it will physically fit fine. How it will alter the performance of the bar in the event of an impact though, is an unknown. If the spare ...

If the GU gearbox has the blanking plate on the LHS for the output, then yes.

shortylux wrote:

Clint wrote:Are you going to sacrifice any virgins on it?

I certainly hope to!

You live in Rotorua now don't you? So you might have difficulty finding some.

Great build thread however!

Anyone run his guards? I want to get our vented ones moulded Ummm, yeah you guys do...or did. Steve made the original glass guards for that truck and then the kevlar / carbon fibre ones for it. Plus the glass ones for my truck that I sold to you years ago. Plus the original glass bonnet we got with ...

Its 0.74

I didn't think anyone had advocated the use of aftermarket parts when rebuilding TD42's? I'd say it's fairly common knowledge that Nissan OEM components are quality and are more than adequate if things are kept sensible. It's just a shame the OEM parts are so damn expensive! I recall one TD42 ...

I disagree mate, UFI and one or two other experimenters are discovering crank issues with 12mm pumps and fairly modified td05 18/20g's, usually within 25-30psi. This is nothing against the stability or quality of the std td42 crank...it's purely the output of the turbo and pump mods that are being ...

Not that I'm aware of, but I know of 4 in AU over the last 18 months. Most are high psi setups (I.e. 35-40psi), with 13mm or 14mm pumps, so the forces involved are ridiculous! 200kw seems to be a consistent figure where reliability just goes out the window, unless you're prepared to spend big ...

I suspect the cranks are an imbalance issue, exacerbated by the high psi set ups. They're still governed around 5,500rpm. Peak torque remains about 3,800rpm from memory.

They are all typically failing at No. 5 or No. 6.

Not that I'm aware of, but I know of 4 in AU over the last 18 months. Most are high psi setups (I.e. 35-40psi), with 13mm or 14mm pumps, so the forces involved are ridiculous! 200kw seems to be a consistent figure where reliability just goes out the window, unless you're prepared to spend big ...

Standard non-turbo GQ pumps are 10mm. From Series II turbo GQ and GU pumps are 11mm etc. Electric helper pumps mitigate some of the injection pump cavitation issues. But you’re still using standard fuel lines which should really be upgraded also. As others have said, the cranks are not bullet-proof. ...

Fuel stop solenoid in the pump?

Tidy effort as usual Daemon, especially the bar work! thanks mate, what you up to these days? Am doing a stint in the Hawkes Bay at the mo. Sold my old truck to a mate after it lunched the engine and bought a D22 Navara. The Nav is more suitable for what I'm doing now, but I do miss the old girl ...

Tidy effort as usual Daemon, especially the bar work!

Fan hubs can be split and extra silicon fluid added. Simple job, just takes longer to unbolt the fan and hub from the engine than it does to freshen it up with extra fluid.

There is alot of diesel knock noise there, timing is likely to be out. Did you set it with a dial gauge?

Bendix Metal Kings. They don't work f*ck-all until they're hot, and then they're gold.

Mud Hog wrote:Hi were abouts did you get your panhard rods from? They look gruntier than the efs ones I am about to buy.
Thanks Simon

They look like Tough Dog units.....but they usually come with genuine Nissan bushes already in place.

Cool...I will get that sorted....I presume they can just be sourced from a Nissan dealer? And...."Rear brake proportioning valve"..???? HUH?? I will get Corey to look at it Bushes direct from Nissan. Do a search, I've posted the part numbers for them on here previously. Proportioniing valve is the ...

The red nolathane bushes in the panhard rods aren't very good and will chop out with use and give the "Nissan Death Wobble". Chuck some genuine Nissan rubber bushes at it soon. What susp lift has it got? Lift the bracket for the rear brake proportioning valve if the lift is more than 2".

Hopefully it lasts a little longer than it did at the Condo 750.

Daemon, Just give the side of the hub a tap with a rubber mallet, it will come off in your hand. Once the hub is off, you will see the end of the shaft, with a circlip holding on the hub engagement gear onto the splined shaft. Remove circlip, slid off the gear and there are washers underneath. The ...

Twin entry, twin waste-gated CT26 turbos with 6 bolt exhuast housings are fine. The single waste-gated ones are prone to cracking through the exhaust housings.

Whatever you use, replace the ceramic exh wheel with steel wheel and shaft.

Right-angle drill and Ezi-outs.

Then replace all your manifold studs with new ones fron Nissan.

hey all Just discovered that my turbo has packed a sad and crapped out . There is enough play in shaft that the compresser wheel has been spining agasnt the housing. Its a ct26 off a 3gste celica. Have been looking on trademe and have come across a Tdo5 with a 20g wheel(?). Would this be a good ...

Justin,
Inconsistent speedo reading is usually due to cracked soldering on the back of the cluster. Its gets brittle with age.