Watch me take this 3 tonne object to the tipping point, get out and sculpt my guns by lifting it back and forward. What did he expect to happen.

Part time. They are very similar to a suzuki escudo, but have a leaf rear end and are arugably not as well built. Pretty rockin' colour though......

Neither your current or old vehicle has/had a centre diff - it's simply not suitable for driving on hard surfaces in 4wd, and will wind up the diffs as mentioned and fark something, or at least give the diffs, bearings, t case and driveshafts a hard time... You may get away with it open road driving ...

how much?

I second that - how much?

Driven till it stopped is probably the key. There is a fair chance the head is damaged/ softened, and you run the risk of damage to the rings, block, and so on. I bought one that had been 'semi-cooked' (the spark plug leads ends were molten plastic around the plugs, it must have got a little warm ...

i run tubes with my 35 simexs for harder stuff easy to repair tyre if puncured in feild pop off rim and pull through a tubless valve fix it when you home, i also run tubeless in my 33 bighorns but use these for different trips good club stuff, as sadam said all about your personal preferance truck ...

It is unlikely that the difference between the two radiators is caused by two extra doors and a longer chassis. Given that the bumpers, lights, grille, guards, bonnets, diffs, suspension arms and stuff are interchangeable (V6 models excluded), it is doubtful that it's the issue. It is more likely ...

I guess it also comes down to which is easier to solve should you get more than one flat on a trip. Hard to repair a tube in the bush, but re-seating a tubeless is possible with a bit of mucking around.

drive it ... wrote: Any of you dudes that have tried both ways, whats best?

Lol!

I was reading something the other day about a dude in the states building a 60 series Cruiser, and he had seated the tyres on the rims with a silicone sealant..... Sounded a little crazy, but could be a great alternative to either continually popping beads as you have mentioned, or puncturing tubes ...

Wow, watching that was four minutes of my life i'll never get back again... What were they thinking?

Beethoven, tux with a cowboy hat and a pile of crap to drive over (not to mention the hill)

The golden years really have passed for japanese 4wds if this is it.

I think you'll find that like any auto vehicle with a 1600 engine, it will feel quite underpowered and lethargic, especially if you are used to something a little gruntier. Offroad, the auto is not a bad option but I would not want one personally for on-road driving. Best option would be to take one ...

As per title - looking for a (uncracked) 3B head....

Cheers.

it all depends on the price, what you expect to get out of it, and how handy you are with mechanicals. I have a 91 3 door that has done 265k and still runs very well. I bought it with a blown head gasket for 1300 and while it's not an oil painting, it still goes hard offroad. I don't see it making ...

Pretty big, 30/9.5/15s fit on no sweat, you could definately get 31s on or maybe bigger, they'll just look very balloonish. the determining factors are more tyre clearance and grunt to push them along. 30's with a 2 inch lift on a 16v escudo is a good all round solution.

Suzuki, it's the one that's not poos. It's all personal choice, but there is still buttloads of Vitara/Escudos on the road (which is a testament to the build quality, some of them are over 20 years old now...) and there's of course a heap of spares kicking around. There is a good reason they are ...

I tend to set mine by ear and then test-drive them. I gradually advance then until they only just pink under high load at low revs, then retard them just enough to stop the pinking. They vary from engine to engine but all seem to end up between 7 and 11 degrees BTDC. Choice, thanks Ineil. At 8 deg ...

meece4x4 wrote:lol so YOUR Zooky suda come and introduced yaself
btw Im still trying to dry the mistresses carpets out

Yeah should have, I only clicked you were on here once I saw your post when I got home. I had heaps of fun, so I'll definitely be coming back for more...

Went out with the Whangarei 4wd Club for the first time on Saturday, had a great time and met some good guys. Tried out the snorkel, held up fine with water over the front section of the bonnet, so more sealed than the doors anyway. The new Dunlop Grantrek MT1's I bought last week seemed pretty ...

sibainmud wrote:Hey Guys,

I got some 15x8 Zuk rims lying around. They are a bit beaten up, but cheap. Let me know if anybody keen.

Cheers.

Discribe "cheap"....

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/auction-289369220.htm

I've been following this thread and have bought a pair of rear shocks supposedly from a VL Commy. However, when I got them, they measure 650mm fully extended, compared to the 500mm or so from the factory zook ones... I've put them in as a trial, to see what they'd do, and they provide a ridiculous ...

skid wrote:
I believe you are confused

we are talking about NZ 4x4 Action magazine

you seem to be talking about the ozzy 4wd action mag

http://www.4x4action.co.nz

Yeah, shame! Well in that case, I'd have to say I've never even heard of it till now...

I've only had a 4WD for a couple of months, but I have bought a few issues of the mag, and it's brilliant. I can't believe that it comes with a DVD each month as well, it'd cost a heap just to produce the DVD... let alone the phonebook sized slab of glossy paper... I've just bought the NZ4WD ...

No obvious answer really, go easier on the gas pedal? carry a jerry can? Build a drop tank that'll have the bottom smashed out on the first trip? The factory tank is sufficent for some pretty decent trips, whereabouts do you want to go where you can't get fuel?

According to the owners manual: 42 L (11.1/9.2 US/Imp gal) ....2 DOOR 55 L (14.5/12.1 US/Imp gal).... 4 DOOR 13 litres is a big difference. I'd say at a guess it'd be only because of the longer boot, so it's unlikely to fit. The mount points are probably even the same, just spread further apart ...

I did this exact same thing with an MR2 that I owned. Put a flat washer on each end of the bolt and tighten as before- make sure your camber is 100% right where you want it and take your time. THEN- get someone to tack the washers into place over your oval hole to set the camber for good Eureka ...

Thanks for the link Zooky. Positive camber all sorted!! Don't know why I didn't think of it. Saved myself some hard earnt beer $$$$ Now even have some negative camber which doesn't worry me. Not the daily driver and won't be clocking up huge kms, that's what we bought a transporter for Sweet as. So ...

Oh yeah, found this too, if you were good in the workshop this would help with the spring-bowing issue....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bentparts/427316480/