Mine was doing the same, slow and clicking. It was corroded contacts on the starter solenoid. New solenoid (can not get replacement contacts), clean armature, seal drain hole and still going strong.

I have got both ( Both manuals). The 3.5 is fantastic at higher speeds where the quad cam comes into its own. It really takes off at 4000 rpm. I consider the 3.0 produces better torque for offroad and can idle over rough stuff better. The 3.5 spins the wheels easily when taking off in mud or sand ...

Mine was doing that. Turned out to be a broken roller bearing on the inside of the hub. Have to take the hub right off to get to it.

I cut 10mm x 20mm from floor where the gear lever rubbed and also moved the whole centre console back 10mm.

I did mine. Cost about $125 for cam belt and $40 for a new water pump. Quite easy to work on compared to the 3.5 motor.

Still a little bit left. Takes 60 litres I think. Just usually takes 55 ltrs to fill it up. The fuel light isn't usually on.

I get about 400 k's to 55 litres. Mine is heavy with sidebars, bullbar, winch and rear shelves with recovery gear.

Try Outer Limits
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=23638

Trade Me often have workshop manuals ie Listing #: 460669880

I had a grinding from my front right hub. Turned out the roller bearings on the inside of the wheel bearing (where the axle goes in to the inside of the hub) were absolutely stuffed. Need to take the whole hub off and grind / cut out the bearing.

I have a 3 Ltr with the Marks 2.85 gears. I'm running 33's with a 40 mm body lift. 5th gear in low ratio tops out at about 50km. Great for crawling downhill in first. Also good when winching as you don't overrun the winch. The 3 ltr is a free spinner so won't bend valves if the cam belt snaps. The 3 ...

From memory the seals were quite cheap - it was the cost of pulling the pump out that hurt.

Yes, Our 2.8 had the same. Would start ok, then conk out after a few minutes. Embarrassing having to coast to the side of the road in heavy traffic. It is the seals in the fuel pump. Apparently the seals leak and suck oil into the fuel mixture. Let it sit for a while and away you go. Was quoted huge ...

Was the money paid to the club (as per contract)???

A GDI with hook mounted as described.



You can see my hook here.
I will take another photo tomorrow.

You are quite right, the factory hook is not suitable for recoveries. I will not snatch anyone without a proper hook setup, I'll winch them instead. I have seen the damage a broken tiedown and strop can do. I have cut off both factory tie downs and have a piece of angle iron bolted (with rated bolts ...

Putting the shocks on the hard position made it a bit better but after one particular corner with no sway bar I almost ended up in the oncoming traffic. Fergy, The first thing I would do is put some rated tow hooks on. I chopped the tie down hook off the front and put a L bracket onto the chasis ...

I tried removing the front sway bar but found it dangerous on road. Some say they don't notice any difference with it off. It lurched half way round a corner with heaps of body roll. If you had to make a sudden adjustment I reckon it would have rolled. I then ran swaybar disconnects on the front ...

I put a 40mmbody lift in. I didn't have to bend the Hi/low gear lever as I did on my other paj with a 50mm body lift. Just a small trim on the driveshaft tunnel. I run 33's offroad on beadlocked 15X8 rims. I found the best suspension mod was removing the rear swaybar. Gave heaps more articulation ...

Thanks, Appreciate that.

Hi Long time follower on ORE, ie NJV6's builds and met Overkills brother in the Aka's when he had the SAS paj. Also met/seen a few locals on the tracks. I have a 94 NJ 3L on 33's, bullbar, 9000 warn, sidebars, rear chasis lift and 2.85 gears. Currently have a few mechanical issues and this pajero ...