If you get stuck you can modify a non locking diff housing to a locking housing. I think it involves grinding and welding though.

Thr drivers side looks normal, but the passenger side is the one I would be worried about. It could just be a bent housing.

I bought an old mid 90's 2 post for cheap, converted it from 3 phase to single phase with an all up cost of $1000. It works well but the issue I have is the arms are too short meaning I can't space the posts wide enough for a wide vehicle. I have to climb out the back door on wide vehicles as I can ...

I've been looking at them as well. The only real note I have is you'll need a radiator larger than the intercooler you would use in an air to air situation as there are now 2 heat transfer processes so you loose efficiency. They are more complex but its often easier getting 2 x 3/4" lines out of the ...

Snapped crank, sounds like a dual mass flywheel would help here.

The OBD should be on under the dash but it probably wont work, well it didnt work for me. The terminal outputs were not the same as the OBD2 standard, my vehicle is a 1997 2.5 V6 (old shape). Check out this link http://www.suzuki-forums.com/2g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/39751-2002-vitara-engine-2 ...

Probably a good time to get this out there. If a bearing cap on a diff is stuffed, it is not a simple case of grabbing one off another diff and bolting it on. They are generally bolted on and bored so are a matched set. I have managed to get a swapped one working but that required a lot of measuring ...

I see that on a lot of diesels, I assume that it's for noise reduction.

It's rooted, if it's running well now it wont be doing so for long. I'd pull it out and replace it with a good one, that'll be cheaper and easier than rebuilding on the assumption the bearings need replacing.

Replace the TPS. It might have been working fine when tested it just like it works fine most of the time when you drive it.

I'd be looking closely at the reliability of anything that comes from FCA (Fiat Chrysler Automobiles). They usually sit at the bottom of reliability charts but if your happy with that I suspect that it would probably preform well and be well priced.

I'd also make sure that right caliper isn't dragging or the left caliper is not seized. That uneven pad wear and problem worse when turning sounds like uneven brake force. Does the vehicle pull to one side when braking?

Solid axle hilux is my pick. Sane as 80 series bit with a M21x1.5 thread.

Nice truck. I tweaked the boost in mine by placing 4.9mm spacers under the waste gate actuator to give 15psi and wound the fuel up. It goes way better now... be careful not to over fuel it though as it can get expensive.

If the vehicle is over 14 years old you can remove the airbags and get a cert.

Are you adding 5% to your mileage due to the larger tyres?
Nice truck! How are the floor mats coping?

What about something like this?
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki-o ... -case.html

Usually means fluid is low in the reservoir. When you accelerate the fluid goes in one direction and when you brake it goes in the other and this makes the light flash dependent on acceleration or braking.

Thanks Gentlemen, I was planning to head down to the mainland and didn't want to get stuck out in the cold without it starting.

Sig, was there much difference after the intercooler was fitted? I suspect you wound up the fuel?

I'm thinking of intercooling my 80 and was wondering about the removal of the intake air heater. Has anyone ever had this come on in colder weather? I don't want to pull it off and find myself unable to start in cold weather. I can relocate it just before the intake manifold so it's after the ...

Common rail diesel linked to a VNT turbo is a top notch combo in my opinion. It's really efficient and delivers a really good torque curve. Specific power figures are making big gains with each new engine. The only engine with a better torque curve is an electric motor, they're still a few years ...

Parallel to series switch on the batteries? Charge at 12V and run at 48V?
Or use one of these http://www.powerbox.com.au/dc-dc-conver ... ll-sd.html

I did a calc on a NP Pajero petrol vs diesel and taking into account interest on the purchase price difference, resale, maintenance, RUC etc it worked out $700 savings every 10000km. The diesel was a lot more expensive the the petrol $25k vs $18k. Dunno what the difference in the jeeps is like.

How did you get on?

As Jafa said don't touch the pinion and set the back lash and preload up to factory specs. Side bush information. Later model but same front diff. It stops oil leaking and aligns the cv much better. http://www.suzuki-forums.com/2g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/37371-front-dif-loose-drive-shaft.html ...

Fairly easy, you only need to set the backlash. Don't touch the pinion depth. You will need 26 spline cv's and a RHS cv support bush, if it's late model with the vacuum diff disconnect it's a bit more fiddly but doable. Drill a hole through the diff head for the air supply but think about where it ...

My Chinese air locker compressor failed after 2 years, the outlet valve rusted off. I cut a new one from shim steel and it works fine.

Sorry, 245/75/R16.

It's a nice simple mod as you can use the factory offset rims and not have to worry too much about guard rubbing. 245's are not as good on sand though...

Other than bottoming out and the extra weight the lwb's are good, there is a lot more space and an extra 2 doors. I would look at a manual gearbox if you want the 1.6, I've been out with an auto 1.6 a few times and its just not torquey enough for the transmission gearing.