Good to hear! I do like it when a plan comes together! Mind you, I have to fiddle when electrics start acting up - very much trial and error!
Regards,
John.

Those look good. I'm a great believer in 205/16 for offroad purposes - find they ride and work better than 215/15 types. Ride better on road too!
Regards,
John

Here we go!!
Regards,
John.

Haven't actually searched but, I presume that's Mark Baxter you're talking about? He does have a rough idea of what he's talking about!
Regards,
John

What you got planned for tomorrow???
Regards,
John

If memory serves, it's circlip, bearing, bracket. Nothing tight fitting, and the bracket just sits there, very much like the retainer plate on a back axle shaft.
Regards,
John

Afraid that bracket is a separate item, held in place by the bearing that seats in the diff. If you take the shaft out of the diff, you'll see clearly how it's held in place. An easy change, if you've got another!! Can it be welded?
Regards,
John

Good news is ALWAYS welcome!!
Regards,
John

You have my sympathy with having a bad back!! I got sciatica (slipped disc) back in the early 70's from getting in and out of minis, and it's been with me off and on since then. Can be fine one minute then, 'click' it's gone again and lasts for a month or so. I'm also a carer for my wife, which ...

And how's yours coming on?
Regards,
John

Surely someone's bought this? Sounds a good'un!
Regards,
John

Anyone bought this yet?
Regards,
John

Not really pointless - we've all been there!! Though, to remove the front diff it really is better to remove the driveshafts and CV joints first. This is one of those areas where it's best to follow the manual! Can you not weld the bracket up after unbolting from the block? Or is it the one that ...

And, of course, we need you to keep us informed with photos! Does sound interesting though!
Regards,
John

Got this sorted yet? I'm always interested to hear how people resolve different issues.
Regards,

I agree with Calvin. On the presumption that the original worked at one time, replace like for like.
Regards,
John

Now to cause confusion! Mine has a straightforward plug with four wires that plugs into the flasher unit. Can only fit one way round. Have you got the correct relay? It's on the bulkhead just to the left of the dash centre, and you have to fiddle a bit to get at it. It's held by a 10mm (or 8MM) nut ...

Safe bet that it's all sorted and you're raring to go on the next outing??
Regards,
John

Obviously a good day out, with proper people. One word though - TYRES! Bet that's what broke everything for you!!
Regards,

Whatever you might think of the final paint job (and from here it looks fine) I reckon you've done a good job there. Just don't land those tyres on the ground with max revs!!
Regards,
John

They are interesting vehicles, aren't they? And I overdosed mine with a mixture of Waxoil, engine oil and gearbox oil in the sills. STINKS like hell now!! Headache time after five minutes!!
Regards,
John

While the bumpstop cup is off, straight bolt off/on, make sure you clean and paint the chassis section behind it. They rust well there!
Regards,

If the tyres will negate the need for a lift, that's the way to go. Lot less stress caused by components working outside design angles. Do the arches have to extend to cover the tyres? Try some old conveyor belt rubber cut to size, if you can get it!!
Regards,
John.

Don't forget the photos! I enjoy seeing what others have done, variations on a theme make Niva ownership interesting.
Regards,
John

You've had enough time - how's it coming on?
Regards,

Upper ball joint spacers are a good idea, although I've never used them. I spaced the upper arm out by about 3mm on each mounting bolt (2 per side) then ground down the lip of the upper bumpstop mount to ensure the arm had sufficient clearance. Allows the cup to drain too! Bumpstop itself cut down ...

Always good to hear of different ways of doing things. Keep it coming!
Regards,

Remember that if you're fitting wedge spacers under the spring seat, you MUST either remove the sway bar, or fit the end below the spring seat. It you don't, the trackrod end will foul and catch on the bar end under full lock / articulation, and the steering will stick in that position! Look at www ...

Use the standard mounting points, then weld a plate to the floor above the tubes and drill straight up through to fit an extra bolt. Then, fit a flat bar to the ball mount that runs forward under the exhaust box to the chassis member in front of it and drill / bolt up through there as well.
Regards,

I'd love to get details of these factory locker equipped Nivas. As far as I know, they've never been fitted with lockers in the axles as standard, only the usual transfer box lock.
Hope I'm wrong!
Regards,