Doing a huge amount of parts numbers cross referencing between the 1991 TD27 transfer case (RE4R01E 47X15), the 1991 VG30E case (RE4R01E 45X24) and the 1994 VG30E auto gear box (RE4R01A 45X72). Seems the 1991 TD27T and VG30E units are very similar. Different bell housings and torque converters for ...

Yup Surfer x2, you're right. Different parts numbers, though the cases are the same, much of the other stuff is different. Damn, why didn't I check to do that initially! Guess that alters my strategy somewhat. Will have to research the V6 RE4R01A rebuild kit available here in Canada. See what soft ...

Bell housing Torque converter pump input shaft and I think the ratios are different too. Ah, bugger. And there was me thinking that just the bell housings would be different. Both are RE4R01A auto transmissions though. And I was planning on doing the rebuild my self, difference between spending ...

Greetings guys, haven't been on here in ages. basically 'cos nothing on my Terrano was broke. Yeah, but now it is. Auto transmission toasted it self yesterday, running crazy hot, fluid black and smoky and misting out the top of the filler tube, no 4th gear. So I got a RE4R01A auto tranny on a North ...

Thanks guys.

Glowing it three of four times without the "Choke"/hand throttle advanced really helps, but still a little smokey.

Gonna check out the glow plugs today. Got some spares anyway.

Hey just a thought when you say "choke*" are you meaning the the little black knob on the left side of the steering colum? If so you may be trying to start it with full throttle as that knob lift the idle up. Try starting it with out pulling the knob out and see how it goes Yeah, that's the one ...

Cameron wrote:does it start fine without using the cold start timing thing? perhaps glow it twice and use a little throttle as an alternative?

Alright, finishing work and -2C out. Will try and start after a couple of glows and see if she smokes like an old freight train!

Yes, the glow plugs are top of the list for an inspection/test this weekend. As for the oil, it does need a change, but I've been running Chevron DELO 400 fully synthetic 5W40 since I got the truck 18 months ago. May be I should look at a 0W30 for cold climate running.

So, the EGR delete, turbo boost increase (to 16 psi), PCV atmosphere venting, and intercooler install is finally complete! My 1991 Terrano TD27t runs like a dream now - way more guts when you put the peddle to the metal! And no black exhaust smoke at idle in hot weather either (probably via the PCV ...

Anyone know a simple way to remove the anti-tamper sleeve on the fuel injector pump max speed adjusting screw? I can barely get my fingers down there, let alone a pair of pliers. Wish I'd done that when the intake manifold was off!

Thanks bud, that kinda makes intuitive sense. Hot in the top, cools, sinks and out the bottom.

Just wanted confirmation before I started cutting the hoses to add the circulation heater!

Still can't figure it out - Nissan TD27t and Pathfinder/Terrano factory manuals no effing help whatsoever.

Let me re-phrase the question . . .

Which is the return heater hose - the upper or lower one coming through the firewall from the heater core?

Thanks,
Mark

Dumb question I know, but on a Terrano's TD27t motor, which of the two heater hoses from the thermostat housing is the return line and which delivers heated coolant to the heater? The one on the passenger side (vehicle left) or the one on the driver side (vehicle right)? Need to splice in a T ...

Pulled the two front left ones as they were the accessible ones, but just no room inside them to actually fit the heating element. Anyway, looking at different options before the snow flies here - possibly a recirculating pump running warmed coolant through the engine and/or stick-on heating ...

OK, after a bit more research, yes, those 35mm plugs access only the water jacket - exactly what's required for the block heater (coolant is heated, not oil). I've convinced my self that the black build-up is from the glycol. It's sticky in a glycol way, not in an oily way. The next question is ...

OK, to resuscitate an old thread of mine, its finally time to add a block heater to the Terrano. Knocked out one of the 35mm freeze plugs - guess you guys call them welch plugs - from the cylinder block (not the small ones on the head) to add a block heater similar to this . . . http ...

Well, its out. Had to grind off the stuck nut with the dremmel tool between the frame and the wheel arch. Took a while but the whole EGR system is out. Having a couple of blanking plates drilled and tapped for EGT probe and a vacuum line out made up at the moment. Thanks for all the advice here ...

Turbo out, and one of the exhaust end EGT nuts, but the other is rounding off! Hard place to get in there and cut it off too!

Thought about putting a blocking plate in, but kinda wanted the empty exhaust manifold EGR port to mount an EGT gauge. Besides, I have a stubborn habit of going the whole hog or not at all despite being still something of a novice mechanic! Anyway, just working on it after work in the autumn ...

Yup, that's on the to-do list as well, lol.

Thanks mate, great vid.

Will have a go at that tomorrow. Hopefully through the wheel arch will work for the exhaust side as well. Can but try

Well, relocated the line to a tee fitting off the manifold to fuel injector pump line. Gauge reading better now. Max stock boost 10 PSI, but safety valve appears to be blowing off at 12 PSI not 14. Wish it was adjustable! Oh well... gonna get rid of that anyway, just want to know my gauge is ...

Yeah, that was my suspicion that the actuator line (from turbo housing to waste gate actuator) was the issue. And yes, I've replaced the factory actuator line. It was had become pretty brittle and the boost contoller has to go on there anyways. Boost controller is now set to zero - stock boost. I'll ...

OK, got me an Autometer Sport-Comp mechanical boost gauge . Good robust high quality unit. Plumbed it in following all instructions, everything sealing well. I located the T-fitting for the gauge in the hose between the Turbo housing and the waste gate actuator as I thought this would give the most ...

Cheers mate, I'll give that a try.

But here in North America, trying to get anything metric or even BSP pipe thread can be a real PITA. Just have to remove the valve in the car park, take it in to the store, and re-install it when they have nothing that fits

Been off the forum for ages, but finally back as I'm getting my parts together for an intercooler install, turbo tweak, EGR delete, and PCV oil catcher. Sourcing a Mistral/Terrano II intercooler in Canada was a pain in the arse - carried one back in my luggage from the UK! Want to do this with ...

Lots of top notch info gentlemen, I appreciate it. Definitely got the R180a under there. Which brings me on to my next question . . . How easy is it to swap in an R200a? I've got the full hub-to-hub assembly including CV axles, R200a diff, the works. Just sat there in my old dead WD21 Pathfinder ...

Mate your better to stay with factory paper filter. I ran one in my truck, each oil change I get an oil analysis to see how the motor is going, with paper the oil test always come back fine, then I changed to K N, next time the guy rang me up and said what have you done, you have got 4 times as ...

Thanks mate

I'll get under there and tomorrow morning and take a squint at the diff. Too bloody cold to be rolling around in the snow right now though!

K&N replacement part number. I think I may have found it though. For the European-build Terrano II, some of which were marketed as the Ford Maverick (different to the 1990s Y60 (GQ) Patrol/Safari that was sold in Oz as the Ford Maverick. Does this look like it? http://www.knfilters.com/search ...