Hi i am installing some Auber gauges in my 100 series TD and want to know if it matters which battery to run power from to the gauges? My understanding is that they are 24v starting and 12v running???

Cheers

B

I have a Marks Adaptors dual program electronic ratio box for when you fit big tires and need to correct your speedometer. It's he MFK1180 and I've never had it fitted just got it with my landcruiser when I bought it, but it had been used before. Unsure on condition but should be fine. Here's a link ...

It's got a similar sort of harmonic vibe at those revs when not under load. Put it under load and it's not as pronounced. It's a harmonic vibration produced by the rotating parts of the engine vibrating at a particular frequency at a certain rpm. Thanks, thought it might be the harmonic balancer ...

Got an annoying noise from my 1HDT sounds like this except between 2000-2200 rpm, been like this for years.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Gvu6JBMBJNs

Any ideas?

Cheers.

hachi_roku wrote:My rage exhaust system points downward, ive fitted a few systems of both the rage and xforce and quality the rage is better with a better muffler if your wanting a freeflow quieter system.. if you dont care about the noise the xforce is fine.

X2 mine points downward. Very good quality unit..

Hi guys,

I'm gonna try to replace both my rear brake calipers on my 80 this weekend if the weather permits..Is this a difficult job? I've got a haynes manual to follow.. If I replace just one caliper at a time, then do I only need to bleed that one, or does the whole system need bleeding?

if it sounds like a supercharger type noise.. power steering p0ump is my guess.. :wink: Hmm, doesn't sound like a supercharger. Have a listen to this video I uploaded, have to listen very carefully, noise happens with throttle.... https://youtu.be/NP1GcJ2Au64 Is quite subtle, but noisier most of ...

ChurchurDan wrote:Alternator or bearing whine doesn't normally go away. Are the belts in good condition and tight?

Yes, it doesn't sound like a belt squeal.. edited might, might be happening during driving just cant hear it yet..

My engine has a subtle whine like noise on startup :( , warm or cold. Noise gets louder when accelerator is pressed (around 900-1200 rpm) but goes away after pressing the accelerator a few times. Can't hear it inside the cab.. cant tell if it's occuring during normal driving. It sounds like its ...

b

Up

B

B

As title states after 4 305s, maybe 285s.., preferably muddies but anything considered... I'm wanting to spend around $250ish per corner..


Cheers.

wjw wrote:
tbh compared to the price of a rebuild, I'm not sure I want to risk shortening it.

Agreed, I'm leaving it at 5000ish ks.

So everyone does different intervals. I might just stick to oil + filter every 5000kms, this seems to be the general consensus over the internet as well. Keeps the big ends in better shape to if replacing it regularly.

I have been changing the oil and oil filter in my 80 series every 5000kms, and just bought the next lot today to do in the weekend. Ive been using mobil delvac MX and ryco filter for the last few changes, and its good, oil still looks fine. How often does everyone else do their changes? Is every ...

crazydragon wrote:How much did that set you back if you don't mind me asking?

About $1300 from memory, put it in myself.

a80crewza, Did your RAGE system came with a dump pipe or was the system bolted onto the factory dump pipe?

There were 2 options, one with and one without the dump pipe. I bought the one with the dump pipe, so bolted on to the back of the turbo.

I've got a 3" Rage system from autobend (can also get from 4wdbits.co.nz) on my 80 series, and went through the process of deciding about a dump pipe, but the majority of people I asked said it will be better to buy the kit with the dump pipe. And if the price you payed was for the dump pipe ...

Got a set of 4 on factory 80 series alloys for sale. Near new tires (13-14mm tread), one has slight guard rub damage but otherwise good cond. $1600 ono

I've got some near new Kumho KL71s, 315/75R16s on factory 80 series alloys, 0 offset. In Christchurch.

Thanks Lchundy, gives me an idea of offset to look for anyway, might have to buy a rim and get it customized.

I'll upload pic for you soon. It's not just offset with these trucks you also need caliper clearance because there so big. Which is why you'll notice most after market rims for 100series are big diameter blingy looking things Cheers, yeah not keen on big blingy ones.. would like to stick to 16" or ...

Lchundy wrote:I found a set of 16x9 forged oz wheels for mine and run 285 75 16s
Think the offset is +48
Never seen another set thou

Is your truck lifted? Any issues with rubbing? Whats the brand of them and do you have a pic with them on

Read this over, i went through the same decision: viewtopic.php?f=37&t=35790

Might have mine for sale soon.. manual, triple lockers

Hi, I'm wanting to change the rims to something a little nicer, but finding it hard to track down what will fit these trucks. I know they are 16x8 and +60 offset (which seems to be the problem). Has anyone changed their rims on their 100, to aftermarket ones with i bit less offset (say +30)? I also ...

may not be quite as simple as handing over 500 bucks for a new lvvta plate your truck will have to pass the brake test if your running larger diameter tyres and sometimes that's not quite as easy as it seems especially if your 80 series is an earlier one with the smaller brakes, a new wof guy and a ...