Digging up an old thread here but I'm with you Fitzy! Doing this job in under an hour seems completely unreasonable! I've just done a front and I reckon I have way more than an hour in doing the shave side of things (also did a lot of bracing and diff guard at the same time). I'll do the rear ...

Oh yeah that sounds a bit drastic.

I say chop EVERYTHING behind the B-Pillar off and remove the firewall. Move the engine back to make the front drive shaft longer and then rebuild the back end in full truggy mode (including PTO driven God winch) and go racing!

You'll be able to bolt on the Prado box with all factory parts. The sideways offset likely won't worry your driveshaft since your vertical offset is probably more than your horizontal offset and the drive shaft only cares about max compound angle. You'll likely find it make maybe 10% difference and ...

Holy heck I've moved house twice since that last update! I really have very little to update. Have finished a Uni degree. I'm now a Mechatronics engineer. Employed as a Mechanical engineer at Invert robotics. invertrobotics.com. I have a fiancee. We own a house. I have a garage! So I guess stuff is ...

looking good mate!
We must be due a "full truck" photo eh?

Mate the amount of stuff you have to get remade is heartbreaking. And I make most of my own stuff twice.

I did enjoy the speed camera traps you laid though!

Hope your progress and health are going well.

you going to run each axle set of bags on one circuit? not too worried about all the air from one bag shifting to the other or will you run a swaybar? I guess it may be an advantage for flex to let the air shift but I'd be a little worried about stability TBH Once had a drive of a single cab ute ...

Sorry for an almost pointless reply, but just wanted to thanks for the update. It's nice to read stuff on here from time to time. So much better than FB.

Just down load an app and the photos all work again.
Great for reading all those old threads.
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/deta ... jjgj?hl=en

And what you have all been waiting for (or maybe just me), it can support it's own weight. It's sitting a little lower than ride height will be.

But I still could not fit my shocks in. :evil: So I had to notch my already narrowed chassis. Heart breaking. But its done. notched chassis.jpeg Now I could finally have my shock in a reasonable position without smashing it on anything. notched chassis shock clearance.jpeg So then I made up a crush ...

Had even notched the bump can to make them sit nice and flush against that rear cage stay. bump can mount inside .jpeg The old Saf suspension kept the tyres below the deck level (the bar in the pick). The new chassis/4 link did not :? . articulation past deck height 1.jpeg So to solve my shock and ...

Next it was time to see where the tops of the shocks could actually fit. I had a plan, but it didn't go a nice as I would have hoped. rhs shock mount full droop.png I ended up trying to walk a very fine line between enough clearance from the chassis on the inside at one articulation, and enough ...

I did weld a strap around the front bush housings. arms front strap.jpeg Painted (in the free-est colour I had, would have preferred black). Here they are hanging to dry, with a standard Saf arm hanging up for comparison. arms saf comparison.jpeg Safe to say the weld-in threaded bungs wont be coming ...

Then had to cut some holes for the shock mounting points. First method was a bit rough. arms drilling holes.jpeg Next method was better but not beautiful. arms milling holes.jpeg Then was time to weld in the shock mounts. arms tigging shock mounts.jpeg arms tigging shock mounts 2.jpeg Then basically ...

It's been a while.
Tiny bits of progress have been happening.
I guess the next step was welding them up.

Here's what I started with. Then started putting it all together.

looks awesome mate.

So, two years down the track, did anyone do this? How did it go?

EDIT: I see some of this thread is only a few months old, still, any updates?

Awesome progress.
As usual good work and write up (and as usual nothing has changed on mine).
Keep it up mate.

Looking good mate. Cheers. for the update. Nice to see what it was I did for you as well. Hope you get a chance to get out for a play in the near future.
Tomorrow is the first day of my uni break so you might actually get to see some finished (ish) pics of what you did for me soon.

As Smurf said. It needs to be LN or YN 60.
The 106 chassis wont work super easy due to the wheel base difference. 112" for the 106 and about 104" (from memory) for the surf.

Darinz has one in his winch/class 6 truck I think, pretty sure he rates it. Don't know how much he is on here these days. Might pay to hit him up on Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/darin.neeley?fref=ts

Yeah the M90 is pretty commonly used on the Lexus. I don't know of anyone running more than about 6 or 7 pound with them though. I think the volumetric efficiency goes to shit after that and your intake temps sky rocket. But I'm no guru, so don't quote me. Except for me.............. :lol: :lol ...

Yeah the M90 is pretty commonly used on the Lexus. I don't know of anyone running more than about 6 or 7 pound with them though. I think the volumetric efficiency goes to shit after that and your intake temps sky rocket. But I'm no guru, so don't quote me.

Well, first of all, my assumptions. 1) Both the engine and the supercharger are 100% efficient at their respective sucking and pushing. 2) You want to know the answer at 6000rpm (I haven't done any volumetric efficiency stuff so not sure RPM matters yet, but I need something to work with) 3 ...

Looking good mate.

Need to get my arse in gear and get a truck I can drive as well.

How did your flash water pump go? Notice any difference?

Ha. Kind of. I'm doing Mechtronics engineering, which means I get to do some of the cool Mechanical papers, but I also do some Electrical and Programing papers. Flip side of that is I miss some of the mechanical papers. We are doing a paper at the moment which covered UJ's in about three minutes. I ...

I know the car. Sounds exciting. I can see how you might make the air shock compromise on a super light vehicle such as that.

Looking awesome Geko, keep it up.

For those that dont know a double carden takes out the eliptical motion at the joint that causes the fast slow that we feel as drive line vibrations allowing us to point the diff up at the transfer case and deal with most of the drive shaft angle at the double carden joint (you still need a few ...