The old way is to feed rope in through the spark plug hole then wind piston to top using rope to hold valves shut

I have a 4.1 rear and 2 4.1 high pinion fronts but Im in the capitol

The comon fix for worn rover dissy's is a GM HEI adapted into the rover.
Gives a good fat spark, available with or without mechanical advance

Hi T
have you still got the FWH's, if so what make are they
J Top

Hi NZ
I would be concerned about 2.5mm wall tube on an exo cage on a heavy truck, ie your avatar. It may dent easily meaning a messy cut and repair, and don't some hoops have to be 1 piece.

It is still in the hook because it is bent so it won't come out.
It has sheared at the the weak point, the start of the thread

I have two rated front and one rear hook PLUS my nissan factory hook and I know which one gets used the most.
Al[/quote]

That would be the front ones in a Nissan wouldn't it ?

I would fit an Auto Trans Cooler and a BIG BORE exhaust.
Any Auto with a Tow Bar should have a trans cooler.
The 3.1 Isuzu is prone to cracking heads so a Big Bore will help get the heat away

Which engine and which transmission ?

Al
I have never snapped 1 of those hooks because the bolts have always snapped first when load testing. The back bolt stretches and snaps and the the front bolt shears.
I refrain from personal attacks on forums but I struggle to understand your attitude.
J Top

That style of hook, as well as the one shown in the pics at the start of this thread' create a leverage over the mount bolts by their offset design. This causes bolt failure before there is any chance of the hook straightening. The supacheap 4500kg hook snapped when I tested it as did the Black Rat ...

The Rover V8s eat camshafts, and as the lobes wear away the hydrolic
lash adjusters run out of travel. The tappets are non adjustable.
The oilpump housings wear and are slow to gain oil pressure leaving parts to run dry on startup
J Top

The axle splines are different sizes but the 50, 80, 410 can interchange nuggets and c/w & pinions. 50 4.88 :1 80 4.55 :1 410 4.1 :1 A common thing in the 70s & 80s was to use BMC A60 rear diffs as they were dime a doz, had close to matching ratios and it didn't matter if you welded one up. John ...

The trick used to be a shrink ring round the CV. There is something about BMC1100 CVs being adapted to fit as well


For the missing/cutting out on a bump, try bypassing the ign switch, they can corrode on the contacts

J Top

I was told by the local auto shop to bypass the rad cooler alltogether as they have small pipes and can block up with the debris carried in the oil.
J Top

I have seen pics of an 80 with an LT1. It had a disc bolted to the rear output flange on the transfer, between the flange and the D/S, and the sensor bolted to the transfer
J Top

Hi Turoa
I know of 1 which could be a good price and is local, call me
J Top

My father trialed 1 of these when they were new. The trick then was to bore it out to take outboard pistons, this increased capacity to about 630cc He also had an Escourt LSD adapted into the rear diff head, but whilst the big bore made quite a power increase I was never sure how much improvement he ...

no personal experience, but I have heard of them twisting axle splines
between the locking mech and the side gear which prevents axle removal and requires cutting open the back of the diff housing and cutting the axle to remove the diff head. This is with a 350 chev
J Top

The cams don't seem to wear. How well it has been serviced relates directly to how long the engine componants last. Remove the tappet cover and put the rocker on the back of the cam, then check for play.
They will go for a long time, just adjust the clearances

Badly worn rockers and shafts can cause TD42s to smoke
As can the restrictive factory exhaust
J Top

Hard top

Where are you. there is a white NT 413 in wgtn for $2800, looks ok.
It has nothing to do with me, just saw it on the side of the road for sale
J Top

There is a full rebuild kit available, it comes with a new tapered bush and shaft etc. Last price, 5 years ago was about $130
J Top

The spiders can weld themselves to the spider pins if too much wheel spinning with the C/D open
I have fitted a 5 port air valve to a RR to get away from the poor OE switch. A 3 port won't dump and will hold the diff in.
The Air Valve gave the most positive engagement I have seen in a Fido
J Top

If your back springs are too flat the D/S is too straight which will contribute to early C/B failure
J Top

If it is a Turbol it will increase it's performance ? {sick joke }, use 2.5" with a straight through muffler. The rumour is it may also save your cyl head
J Top

Its probably easier. but not easy, to change out the whole front diff assy.
I have dumped 2 or 3 of them as they have no resale.
Wacko may have 1
J Top

There are different sizes, ratios and cvs for the different models and engines. The 3.0 V6 manual, 2.8 and 3.5 all have the 8" c/w whereas the 2.5 and the 3.0 auto have the 7.5" All the gen 2s have a high pinion front diff. The 8" is considered unbreakable upto 33" tyres. You can't get a high pinion ...

Hi Aaron
this is a common L/C problem, it has to do with spring wrap, worn pinion brgs allowing the pinion to wind into the C/W till it jams, or d/shaft UJ bind more common on the earlier 40s with the smaller UJs.
Yes the 60 & 40 diffs interchange as long as they are a fully floating type
J Top