Project Pajero

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Project Pajero

Postby NJV6 » Wed May 03, 2006 8:42 pm

Here is the start of a story, suiting a SWB Pajero to my needs.

**Feel free to ask or offer advice**

I had narrowed down my choices for a 4WD to a SWB 3.0 Prado or a SWB Pajero, Petrol or Diesel. After having a decent drive, I decided on the Paj, then it was to find one I was after. Either a 2.8Tdi of 3.5 Quad cam V6, both had to be in 5 speed. After a bit of a search I came across a 3.5 5 speed in Nelson so after a few phone calls and a meet in Chch I drove the vehicle home.



1st day after getting it, it was dripping coolant onto the concrete (It came with a warranty) Turns out all that was wrong was a faulty radiator cap that was not letting coolant return to the radiator after expanding.

1st 4WD trip was a week or so later, on some bald 31x10.5's AT's in snow up the blue mountains in November! (Thats where 2 sets of chains came in handy), Halfway through this trip it wouldn't idle & kept stalling, turned out that was a faulty idle stepper motor, a common fault. About 3/4's of the way through the trip the clutch started slipping!

About now I was sure I had a lemon but it did run so sweetly and everything stacked up on it including certification of its kay's so I got a new clutch. ($1100 - parts, a Warranty doesn't cover clutches)
Last edited by NJV6 on Thu Aug 11, 2011 8:11 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Postby NJV6 » Wed May 03, 2006 8:51 pm

Tyres

SO I had to do something about tyres, I wanted to run 33's but I felt 12.5 was just wide enough for the conditions I use the vehicle in. So I tried some 285/75 with cruiser offset and they rubbed at the front on full lock without chains on - I needed a tyre that would not rub with chains on. I could do a body lift if necessary to fit the chains.

I then discovered BFG did a Mud terrain in 33 x 10.5 which was just what I wanted so bought them that day & put them on the factory 7 inch rims. I got a half worn 255/85 off trade me for $25 as a suitable spare.

Image

Was well impressed with them and being std offset I can run chains without rubbing, the front just nicks the mudflap.
Last edited by NJV6 on Fri Nov 23, 2007 10:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby NJV6 » Wed May 03, 2006 9:06 pm

Suspension

It came with adjustable KYB's factory which either after 80k were stuffed or were just no good to begin with but the ride is incredibly hard on soft springs.

I am still on these :oops: Am researching a suitable adjustable rancho currently.

Off roading with the tirfor in the back and loaded for a weekend the bump stops got a bit of a workout so in went some slightly heavier cobra springs which also gave about a 1 inch lift. After returning the first set which didn't have the right cut at the top & created a thump sound I am happy with the springs. Pajero's do tend to be a bit 'nose down' anyway so a little torsion adjustment had it sitting right.

No doubting the front could do with more travel; everything helps especially on a lifted vehicle! A little (lot) of upper bump stop trimming meant I had regained the up travel I had lost by lifting the vehicle.

It was now I discarded the rear anti roll bar & it rests nicely in the shed. Handling was still predicitable but not as sharp as it was originally (especially on narrow 33's).
I had read about the 'articulator' that was made in Australia that went in the front sway bar which had a removeable pin, I decided I had to have one as the handling is appaling without the front sway bar on & it rides much more comfortable & more wheel travel off road.

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Articulator with the pin removed, allows the left side to rotate independantly to the right hand side.

On full rear articulation I feel the hand brake cable is too short & restricting it, also there is more to be had with a more suitable shock that willl allow more droop without dropping the spring out.
Last edited by NJV6 on Fri Nov 23, 2007 10:43 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Postby NJV6 » Wed May 03, 2006 9:16 pm

Odd's and End's

A SWB Pajero doesn't really need a rear heater so I pulled it and all the hoses from underneath out to create a storage place - I hope to at some stage put the battery in there, it is the ideal size. While I had all the seats out I modified the heater outlets to the feet so it actually worked - it had that many different ways air could go it never made it to the floor!

About now I made a shelf for the rear enabling storage + the use of the rear seats - there is very little room behind the seats. This incorporates a power outlet to power a light for camping.
Image

I installed a CB radio into the dash below the radio & upgraded to a cd player, componet speaker system (blah blah!).

Image
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Postby NJV6 » Wed May 03, 2006 9:22 pm

Body lift

I had 25mm blocks and bolts in the shed so decided to put this in. After I had it in (real easy in a Paj) I adjusted the front bumper and was taking the gas to the transfer case gear lever to bend it to get it into low box I thought why the hell am I putting this in and so a week later took it back out :oops: :oops: After all the tyres I wanted to run fitted no problem!
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Postby NJV6 » Wed May 03, 2006 9:29 pm

Winch

It came time for the local 24 challenge & I had no winch. Another member had had a pajero but had since sold it, he had a custom bar with a 8274 Hi mount on it, so it made sence that it bolted up to mine which it duly did, the 8274 proving a great winch for a lighter(?) vehicle.

Image

A year later he asked for the Hi Mount back so now my XD9000 sits on the bar.
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Postby JTop » Thu May 04, 2006 12:16 am

Have you done a ball joint flip yet?, this increases wheel drop whilst reducing the droop on the top wishbone which inturn stands the upright more vertical, reducing CV angles and saving CV boots.
I had incar adjustable ranchos in mine and was unimpressed, I have red that they are a leaf spring shock and dont have the damping required for low friction coils.
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Postby SupraLux » Thu May 04, 2006 8:39 am

JTop wrote:Have you done a ball joint flip yet?, this increases wheel drop whilst reducing the droop on the top wishbone which inturn stands the upright more vertical, reducing CV angles and saving CV boots.


and will make the wheel alignment process a little easier on a lifted truck.

JTop wrote:I had incar adjustable ranchos in mine and was unimpressed, I have red that they are a leaf spring shock and dont have the damping required for low friction coils.
J Top


Hey! Thats "cart spring" shocks please, use the correct ORE terminology :lol:

I've used and fitted Ranchos in several different trucks with no major issues, although interestingly enough I have a friend taking them out of his 80-series because he feels they are too harsh regardless of setting. I haven't looked at it yet, but might have to investigate that one. Could be that the Rancho is not the right shock...

The big thing with the Ranchos is that a lot of guys fitting them don't care... if they can get 12.5" of travel in a shock, they are happy with a slightly harsher ride... not everyone will put up with that tho. Ranchos new shocks have 15" of travel! Got 4 coming in from the US shortly for a play... I think they would have to go on coils, cos leafs will struggle to push that travel without fancy-pantys shackles.

An alternative might be the Bilstein 5125... possibly going to import those later in the year... still looking into it. Shouldn't be much more expensive than the Ranchos. To fit something with nice long travel in the back of the Paj you will probably need some new shock mounts anyway so it shouldn't matter which shock you use, as long as it works properly... imho :P

Nice writeup btw... been needing something like that to keep me going

Steve

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Postby NJV6 » Thu May 04, 2006 9:50 am

JTop wrote:Have you done a ball joint flip yet?, this increases wheel drop whilst reducing the droop on the top wishbone which inturn stands the upright more vertical, reducing CV angles and saving CV boots.
I had incar adjustable ranchos in mine and was unimpressed, I have red that they are a leaf spring shock and dont have the damping required for low friction coils.
J Top


No I haven't done a ball joint flip as of yet - It is in the cards. Does it need certified?

I have had experience with Rancho's on both a LR defender 90 & a SWB Prado and apart from destroying 3 on the LR (standard suspension) I likes the 'adjustableness'. Its interesting to hear your thoughts
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Postby NJV6 » Thu May 04, 2006 9:57 am

SupraLux wrote:The big thing with the Ranchos is that a lot of guys fitting them don't care... if they can get 12.5" of travel in a shock, they are happy with a slightly harsher ride... not everyone will put up with that tho. Ranchos new shocks have 15" of travel! Got 4 coming in from the US shortly for a play... I think they would have to go on coils, cos leafs will struggle to push that travel without fancy-pantys shackles.


I am after ride quality as much as anything. The std ones are anything but. Anyone got suggestions? With the factory KYB's out of the back I struggle to pull them out by hand.

SupraLux wrote:
To fit something with nice long travel in the back of the Paj you will probably need some new shock mounts anyway so it shouldn't matter which shock you use, as long as it works properly...


Good comment. I could then get an eye to eye mount....

SupraLux wrote:
Nice writeup btw... been needing something like that to keep me going


Thats good, I'll add to it tonight!
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Postby NJV6 » Thu May 04, 2006 9:30 pm

Diff Swap

Low range gearing is not a pajero's strong point, It simply won't go slow enough. There are 2 diff ratios for the later models with larger diffs - 4.636 & 4.9's. The transfer case is 1.9 to 1, which is the downfall gearing wise.

After a bit of research I found 2.8 Turbo Diesel LWB's had the 4.9 diffs, the SWB ones having the same 4.636 as mine. Next was to try and find a NZ new one as it had the factory air diff lock, which are a very reliable & strong unit. ARB or any lockers for that matter are not available for the Rear of this model, so to get a diff lock requires finding a factory one.
Image

A 1999 late model rolled one came up for sale in Wellington so I duly bought the whole vehicle.

Image

For a start it was an expensive diff lock but this is getting cheaper as i sell parts! The swap itself wasn't to hard, bar a couple of complications, the 1994 long side cv would not bolt up to the 1999 diff/axle housing, it was out by a couple of mm.

Image

To do the front requires the removal of all steering arms, both hubs & cv's & a crossmember.

Image
Image

I have not had a decent run with these yet as I still have no brakes... It should be 5% lower, not much but better than nothing and goes some way to getting the on road spark back that it has on 31's. 33's, I estimate to be 8.5% bigger in diameter. It still only has a 36.8:1 1st Low.

:D
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Postby Mattman » Mon May 08, 2006 7:40 pm

Nice writeup, great to read and good pics.

Cheers
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Postby NJV6 » Mon May 08, 2006 9:38 pm

*More pic's added*

I thought I better give it a look over and check bolts before my trip yesterday, and it paid off because the diff bung was only finger tight :oops: But during the day we didn't discover any untoward thumps or clunks underneath, in fact I must have got the bolts right.

I got the compressor and ECU etc fitted for the diff lock but due to the placement the air line was not long enough & didn't have any lying about.

Image
The compressor is quite small and is on the right in the photo.

The handbrake saga continues, i wanted to use the LWB ones as I feel the SWB ones are too short but the LWB ones are just a bit long. I put the left one in the right keeper and vice versa and wove them around underneath and seemed to stay out of harms way pretty well. I did notice that since they were not full of mud like mine - they worked quite a lot better!

The gearing - well it certainly helped on the road and I'm sure i noticed it off road as well, being able to potter about in 3rd low where i'm not sure I would have before.
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Postby NJV6 » Wed May 17, 2006 2:18 pm

Lighting

The Paj had very good standard light but in the never ending quest to see further down the road when returning from an expedition or competing in the 24 hour challenge I wanted more light.

Image

So on went some Narva 'Artic blue' 100W jobbies, with 1 spot light and 1 broad beam. Well chuffed, they produce a really nice light but still doesn't help me to see through tussocks over the bonnet.
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Postby NJV6 » Wed May 17, 2006 2:31 pm

Air compressor

I'm not a huge fan of letting tyres down cos you only have to pump them up again but there are times when it really is helpful. When a ARB compressor came up on trade me I duly bought it and installed it. Seems to work well and after getting a couple of fittings everything was right.

To do so meant moving the carbon canister (some emissions crap) to the other side of the engine bay so i could nicely mount the compressor.

Image
Image
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Postby NJV6 » Wed May 17, 2006 2:51 pm

Snorkel

A trip I am leading to the west coast including Barn bay includes the Cascade & Hope rivers, and so being decent rivers it was decided to get a snorkel.

After being told $250 to install it, I did it myself! The template was good,
Image
and I then took to the panel for the main hole with a 76mm hole saw. As it wasn't a metal one it lasted 10 secs or so then used the angle grinder with a cutting disc :oops: which is kind of a little scary. However I ended up with a perfect hole, mounted the snorkel and made a small scratch on the paint where the bolt holts were to go, as a pilot, because the template was slightly different or I hadn't lined it up correctly.
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Painted all the holes with anti rust & siliconed up all the joins and holes and it was fitted, the fit and finish of Safari Snorkels is very good.
Image
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Postby JTop » Wed May 17, 2006 6:20 pm

Hi NJ
Good write up. Put a cap on the air fitting on the ARB or dirt will cut the seals and it will leak.
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Postby NJV6 » Thu May 25, 2006 8:34 pm

Next update,

Diff lock works brilliantly, sometimes a little slow to go in, but i may just be impatient :) Certainly enabled me to climb uneven stuff with much more ease.
Just got back from 3 days over on the west coast, Got 3 new dings from Copper creek track, and the tiny creek, after 6 hours of heavy rain, when time to head out had water come splashing in the side window :shock: I was pleased on a number of occasions on having the snorkel, many puddles on the track over there are bonnet height.

There is a couple of signs of muddy water in the airbox & a tiny leak, so going to check all snorkel connections again and other running repairs saw the air compressor start to smoke, but it turned out it was the wiring to the relay not being up to the task!

But the Paj is at the dealer getting a major oil leak fixed, on the road trip over there, on arrival I noticed oil all over the underside and up the back and the dipstick down to a 1/3rd. It was full 400km earlier. It is washing down the back of the motor from high up, off the gearbox and then anti rusting the entire underside! Not sure where it is coming from but possibly a cam cover. A close eye was kept on it on the way home in case of worsening, but 1 and a half litres got me home ok.
If anything major needs to be taken off then it'll be a cambelt job as well (97000km) J Top - you had any experience with leaky DOHC's?
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Postby JTop » Thu May 25, 2006 8:49 pm

No, but the rubber tappet cover gaskets do go brittle and leak.
If you are going in that far, check the s/plugs because they should do 100000kms as well and you have to strip a lot to do one bank.
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Postby NJV6 » Thu May 25, 2006 10:46 pm

Yes, I plan to do plugs & water pump when doing cam belt. Cheers
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Postby NJV6 » Tue Aug 22, 2006 5:47 pm

Update

well time for an update, I've had major drama's getting a simple oil leek and cambelt done. It is still at the garage & went in for its change about 2 months ago. Came out and was just a tad noisy and still leaked oil.

In the meantime I managed to break the diff lock I had not long installed
Image

Image

I have put it back together and still works fine as an open diff. Just rather disappointed in the outcome for all that work. We have put the breakage down to not enough air pressure being run to either keep the diff fully locked or get it fullly locked.
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Postby NJV6 » Tue Aug 22, 2006 6:02 pm

Ball joint flip

After needing new upper control arm bushes & having the arms off I took the opportunity to do a ball joint flip. I drilled out the holes to take 10mm bolts and also bought low profile bump stop bolts and trimmed some more off.

Image
Image

It is now a bit 'knock knee'd' front on looks like \ / so in need of some more shim's I think. Any idea on how many I'd need JTop?

Image
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Postby NJV6 » Tue Aug 22, 2006 6:31 pm

Bull Bar

This bar was the one that did me well for some months,
Image
originally with a 8274 then after decideing how wonderful an 8274 on a Paj was, the owner wanted it back and I din't like the weight of it with the IFS. So with a few mod's I had my XD9000 on it. The original bar was for a JTop with out the flared guards so left the front corners a bit exposed & after a reecnt trip to Haast i did push the side in a little so wanted some side bars.
After a couple of afternoons in the workshop we came up with this and am quite chuffed.
Image

It is basically finished & as soon I get the Paj back form surgery it'll go on. Just still to do are side bars & sliders & pins for the centre of the bar to wrap rope around.
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Postby JTop » Tue Aug 22, 2006 10:17 pm

Cut the excess bolts off and apply some black paint or you may be up for certification.
Usually if you lift it some more the camber corrects itself, I have my alignments done local by racecar prepers rather than boys fresh out of school at tyre franchises
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Postby NJV6 » Tue Aug 22, 2006 10:25 pm

I left the bolts long so I could put a spacer in there...... but yes good point, I will paint them black. The camber would correct itself if I lift it some more but for now it's high enough.... I'd rather utilise the extra down travel. I'll have a yak to some down here and see who recommends who for alignments.

*Edit*

Have decided not to put spacers in there, would have made the alignment waaay out requiring new bolts and a heap of shims. I put 2 in each bolt and brought things back to normal.
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Postby Big » Tue Sep 05, 2006 10:36 pm

Nice right up..currently thinking of a project myself but with a 1UZ in it..hehe i like the power.I like the mods you have done so will keep an eye on wut ya doing so i can impliment it as well when the time comes..

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Postby NJV6 » Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:30 pm

Time for an update

Free Wheeling Hubs

I had always wanted to do this now that my cv's were not running flat any of the time. Having said that I have never had a cv boot split on me.

So some AISIN ones came up for sale and $170 later they were on my Paj

Image

I now have to join the Hilux/Pootrol brigade and hope out when the track starts....

I guess that is better than what I have been doing at that point - opening the bonnet and swapping air lines so the front diff connects. One of these solinoids was faulty and caused the dreaded flashing light syndrome http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=88819

Image

At $185 a pair it was getting $$ but the one I wrecked had 1 good one on it so I used that.
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Postby NJV6 » Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:35 pm

One random day.... I tried on some 35x10.5x15 Simex Centipedes. The scary thing is they actually fit and went round. But I couldn't really turn without it trying to tear the flares off. These Simex's are on Toyota rims and would fit better on Mitsi rims. The enormous side lugs would rub on the upper inner guard on the back at full articulation. So they came off again!

Image

It did look the shiz thou....
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Postby Steve_t647 » Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:49 pm

Hmm that is dangerous, I recon when you next need a set of rubber you will think back to that day... :D

Looks good are you thinking of getting another locker? and having more pressure to hold the locker in (I think they are sprung out as an poen diff and air pressure to hold locked).

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Postby NJV6 » Mon Aug 27, 2007 4:02 pm

Steve_t647 wrote:Looks good are you thinking of getting another locker? and having more pressure to hold the locker in (I think they are sprung out as an poen diff and air pressure to hold locked).


I will get another locker but have never seen one for sale. There are no aftermarket ones available but they tell me ARB's one is very close to being ready. 8)
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