Building Te-Rino

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stovanovich
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:37 pm

fh2014 wrote:Yea you can fit the 180 old or new no worries but I don't think the 200, didn't lax have to drop his to get c200 lsd in ?


Also are you swapping that hitachi ht12 turbo out for the garret tb25? Let's know how that goes as my research has shown that the turbos aren't much different at all. Both .48s and journal bearing. Hopefully the garrett flows better or moves more air


Hmm yeah dead keen on doing the R200 swap instead, guess I'll have to track down the diff drop just a shame the shipping is just soo expensive for a simple piece of kit (anybody found them in NZ?)

Yeah swapping em out soon as seals are getting bad in my turbo so figured what the hell since I had the Garrett around for free. My understanding is that they can handle the higher PSI better and since I'm pushing between 17-18 PSI it can only help, just a case of rejigging it to suit my top-mount intercooler.
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Build Thread: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=42742
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fh2014
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby fh2014 » Mon Sep 21, 2015 9:57 pm

found lax's bit about the r200 in the front.

mentions the dif fouling the sump, not sure if thats just on the install or if thats always.

lax2wlg wrote:Ok some interesting notes on front diff setup.

I've set it up using 4.875 gears from the C200 rear diff & C200 LSD.

To install the 4.8 pinion I used the sleeve from the R200A front pinion then got a small depth spacer machined. This allowed me to get the mesh pattern within factory specs. I used the good old freezer method to seat the pinion bearing.



The C200 LSD centre would not accept the short side stub axle retaining bolt (prob because it was from a RWD application). Talked to slide who suggested extracting the threaded insert from the open R200 and seating it into the LSD side gear. Worked great.



We'll see how it goes. Worst case scenario I'll go to slightly taller V6 gears in both ends.



The hardest part about installing diff drop bushings is getting the old ones out! The factory bushing sleeves can be re-used, and just need to be turned or ground slightly. These bring it down a solid 10-15mm, enough to prevent the R200 case from fouling the sump. And in terms of keeping CV angles safe, a little goes a long way.



Next stage - installation. This WILL be a whore of a job since its such a tight fit, but will definately be worth it.

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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Wed Sep 23, 2015 9:38 am

fh2014 wrote:found lax's bit about the r200 in the front.

mentions the dif fouling the sump, not sure if thats just on the install or if thats always.



Might have to give the "Bible" thread another read I guess as it's been a while :lol:

Anyway, got some more pictures from one of the mates I was away with on the weekend of the flex with the 33s, they pretty much clearing all fine now, just a tiny bit of rubbing in the inner guards of rear & on the rear of flares in the front. Rear could be fixed by extending bumpstops about 5-10mm, front is easy, just gonna trim that a tiny bit more.
Will probably change the rims eventually for better clearance but as it sits currently they working just fine!

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That reminds me, changed rear springs out a few weeks back for some heavier duty ones which have really firmed up the ride. Bunch of work going into the front end at the moment too (new Balljoints, bushings etc all round) Thank goodness for Rockauto!
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby Ratline » Sat Sep 26, 2015 8:50 pm

hey man do you have any specs to make a snorkel I have a 1990 datsun 4x4 and a my mate has a rano we both want to build snorkels any help would be much appreciated

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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby lax2wlg » Sun Sep 27, 2015 5:39 am

Yeah so regarding the R200 swap, only the VG30 models had that as a front diff, so in order to fit the 8" R200 to a diesel model, you need to either lift the engine up or drop the diff, or modify the sump.

I got my diff drop bushes from 4x4parts.com.

It's only a tiny amount of extra clearance that is needed, technically you could move the engine up slightly with some spacers, I looked into it and there's plenty of thread on the engine mount rubbers to make it work.

The diff drop is good though. 13mm doesn't sound like much but it means that at full droop, with the power down, the inner CVs are only operating at about 22 degrees. and because they are not a tripod type cv, but rather a ball and cage double offset joint designed for a V6, with about 3 inches of built in plunge, they are are more than up to the task of standing up to the TD27 in rock terrain.

Only failure I had with that setup and a super packed front LSD was breaking an outer cage. But I was really asking for it on a track in rally woods called 'Diff breaker'

Got about 2/3 way through a section reserved for dedicated off road buggies with 35-37 inch plus tyres.

The big H233 rear end was bellied on a rock, so I was asking the front to pull the entire vehicle up and off a rock at an incline of about 40 degreess. At the time I had the steering at about half lock to avoid panel damage. Outer CV joint let go. Took about 25 minutes to install the replacement CV assembly I had in my trail spares, with hand tools.

Will go back to a C200 in the future for better rear diff clearance, plus dual cases and long travel IFS, Patrol CVs for a narrow 35 inch tyre, and a supercharger for torque below 1000rpm.

Christ this addiction is so sick.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:22 am

Ratline wrote:hey man do you have any specs to make a snorkel I have a 1990 datsun 4x4 and a my mate has a rano we both want to build snorkels any help would be much appreciated

Not really mate, just measured the angles 3 times each then bought the bits I needed for it, my memory it was a 90deg, a 60 deg & a 45deg, then just needed the straight bits to fill the gaps.

lax2wlg wrote:...they are not a tripod type cv, but rather a ball and cage double offset joint designed for a V6, with about 3 inches of built in plunge, they are are more than up to the task of standing up to the TD27 in rock terrain.

Yeah thinking I might do similar to what Simon has done and perhaps keep the r180 at this stage and simply swap the CVs & drive flanges over (at least at this stage) the rear LSD works damn well by itself for now and the only real reason I would want to go to R200 is for some traction aid there too. More thinking here required methinks.

lax2wlg wrote:Christ this addiction is so sick.
Aint that the truth :lol:

In other news, I have acquired some dual electric fans from a Nissan Maxima so plan soon is to get them installed and working on both a thermal switch & a master switch for water crossing. Talking to the guys over at NPORA it sounded like these are a straight bolt up to the V6 Radiators and upon grabbing it, it looks like a straight bolt up for us diesel boys too.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Tue Oct 20, 2015 2:41 pm

So electric fan mod is on hold until I can get my hands on a spare water pump in case I mess it all up whilst cutting off the fan hub. Actually pondering just putting one half of the dual fan on the front to help push a little extra air through whilst keeping the mechanical fan too... ponder ponder.

Anyway finished the on board air side of things now, decent sized compressor all mounted up and working well. Hose comes up beneath rear seats along with power for switch. Scored the tank for free as it had a buggered motor so stripped all that off and away we went.
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Also took her out for a good play on a club trip over the weekend up woodhill finding myself in a little mudhole to really give the winch / bar a good testing, off again for the long weekend this weekend so few long nights of maintenance work ahead this week :D
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:22 am

Changed my Overdue compression rod bushes. I highly recommend doing this if you haven't already, even if the bushes look good there is a high chance their not good in the place you can't see. Once I pulled mine out I found that the sleeve had worn through down to the actual rod itself :oops: Luckily I had managed to escape it actually wearing on the rod itself so glad i changed it when I did. The process for this is as follows if you can't figure it out for yourself.

Required: 24 & 19mm Spanner, 22mm Socket, ratchet & breaker bar.

1) Remove 24mm nut from back of rod (chassis side)
2) Remove the 2 bolts holding rod to LCA: 19mm on head of bolt and 22mm socket on nut, you will likely need a breaker bar to crack this (and a friend holding spanner on the top helps too)
3) Remove old bushes and pull rod out, if the sleeve looks like mine did then you'll need to get creative with how you get it off as it has likely seized on. I used combination of vice grips & hacksaw to get it done.
4) install new bushes with sleeve & reverse the process. I used Moog parts again as I have for majority of my front end parts due to their quality.

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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby Crash bandicoot » Thu Oct 22, 2015 2:57 pm

DO the electric fan mod, cable tie the garden hose to the alternator bracket and run it on the shaft as you cut, i simply removed the radiator and unbolted the fan, cut away the viscous hub with a 4 inch grinder then used a 1.5mm stainless cutting disc to go through the pump shaft itself, my thinking the thinner the disc the less friction , less heat, but with the garden hose on it i could still touch it straight after cutting, so no issue there, they are hardend steel shafts, so the normal saber saw hack saw wont even dent it as such.

i then drill and tapped the top water outlet on the engine for a thermo static switch wired the fans per normal with the addition of a spdt switch middle position is off for water crossings down via thermo switch and up for on full time.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Thu Oct 22, 2015 3:09 pm

Crash bandicoot wrote:DO the electric fan mod, cable tie the garden hose to the alternator bracket and run it on the shaft as you cut, i simply removed the radiator and unbolted the fan, cut away the viscous hub with a 4 inch grinder then used a 1.5mm stainless cutting disc to go through the pump shaft itself, my thinking the thinner the disc the less friction , less heat, but with the garden hose on it i could still touch it straight after cutting, so no issue there, they are hardend steel shafts, so the normal saber saw hack saw wont even dent it as such.

i then drill and tapped the top water outlet on the engine for a thermo static switch wired the fans per normal with the addition of a spdt switch middle position is off for water crossings down via thermo switch and up for on full time.


Oh yeah I still plan on doing it for sure! Thinking a good spot for the switch would be where my aftermarket watertemp gauge is already plumbed in too.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby lax2wlg » Thu Oct 22, 2015 4:28 pm

Whats the benefit of the electric fan mod vs the cost of upgrading alternator etc?
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby Crash bandicoot » Thu Oct 22, 2015 5:22 pm

lax2wlg wrote:Whats the benefit of the electric fan mod vs the cost of upgrading alternator etc?


for me it didnt matter being an ETI engine as it has the big out put anyway, but the electric fans shift a shit load more air at low speed then the viscous which when off roading is where it counts, earlier terrano's not to sure about alternator output wise, but with 770cca batteries vs the time the fans are on i doubt you'd be stressing it anytime soon.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby lax2wlg » Thu Oct 22, 2015 5:56 pm

Mmmm Yeah I need more convincing.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Thu Oct 22, 2015 10:12 pm

Crash bandicoot wrote:
lax2wlg wrote:Whats the benefit of the electric fan mod vs the cost of upgrading alternator etc?


for me it didnt matter being an ETI engine as it has the big out put anyway, but the electric fans shift a shit load more air at low speed then the viscous which when off roading is where it counts, earlier terrano's not to sure about alternator output wise, but with 770cca batteries vs the time the fans are on i doubt you'd be stressing it anytime soon.


The Standard WD21 Altys are 70amp (or at least mine is) I do like the amount of air the maxima fans pull (had them test wired up to my spare battery in the shed) and the load isn't actually too bad (I've heard falcon fans can suck the juice though, as the americans use similar for their "Taurus fan mod"
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby lax2wlg » Thu Oct 22, 2015 11:24 pm

Mines 50amp. So is the replacement one I put in when the old one died. My spare one is 50amp too.

I would be keen to switch to a 100-150amp General Motors alt, but I have yet to find a vacuum pump that could be integrated into the system.

I don't really see how the e-fan offers better airflow at low speeds. I find the factory viscous fan, if the clutch is on good condition and it is properly shrouded, is extremely efficient. Personally I would rather retrofit a bigger radiator. Not that overheating is something that us Nissan guys have to worry about. It's an extremely heat tolerant engine.

Plus, when you need to pull the rad out to clean it and power wash after a day mudding, imagine all the extra c¥¥nting around if an electric fan pack was attached to it.

That's just me tho. I'm into minimal electrical accessories. Shit I even use a handheld radio instead of a 12v one.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:18 am

lax2wlg wrote:Mines 50amp. So is the replacement one I put in when the old one died. My spare one is 50amp too.
...
That's just me tho. I'm into minimal electrical accessories. Shit I even use a handheld radio instead of a 12v one.


Weird... Maybe I'm running a patrol one then. Anyway, I definitely have a 70Amp Alternator that i thought was factory so guess that's just a nice little bonus for me :D

See me being a techie, I'm completely the opposite, if it's useful and not a big drain then I like it!
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:02 pm

So I have had the girl parked up for the last 2 weeks since attending the Ahuroa Volunteer Firefighter fundraising safari and used this time to finally swap the Garrett from my mates parts R50 into the truck. Everything bolts up fine as far as lines etc are concerned only part that was different to factory turbo was where the inlet & outlet are so had to get creative with some extra silicone bends. But she's all connected up and ready to go, also got another Bighorn intercooler that was in better shape than mine so swapped that on too.

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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby Crash bandicoot » Fri Nov 27, 2015 10:12 pm

you should be able to roatate the compressor housing to make the outlet face vertical and make the silicone U bend redundant.
same goes for the inlet flange
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Fri Nov 27, 2015 10:39 pm

Crash bandicoot wrote:you should be able to roatate the compressor housing to make the outlet face vertical and make the silicone U bend redundant.
same goes for the inlet flange


:oops: Didn't even think of that. It actually bolts up nicely without having to change intercooler flange though as is so all happy over here. Next will be to hook boost tap back up but just need her running again for a wheel alignment tomorrow.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby BlakeNZ » Sat Nov 28, 2015 5:10 am

one of the issues that occurs (specifically on an internal wastegate turbo) when you rotate housings for better alignment (the centre core needs to stay in the same orienatation so the oil drain is at the bottom) is that the wastegate actuator is attached to the compressor cover at one end , and attached to the wastegate flap on the turbine housing, so you need to find an alternative anchor point for the diaphragm end of the actuator for it all to work as intended.
Hey, thanks for the updates on your rig.

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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby Crash bandicoot » Sat Nov 28, 2015 5:39 pm

We are only turning the compressor housing, garrets allow for this for different fit ments , cartridge and wastegate stay in the same place. Just need unbolting to effect the rotation of the housing then bolt back on.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Mon Nov 30, 2015 10:17 am

Anyway, it's a moot point now anyway :lol: on the Garrett though, took it in to work today for a good test run and there's a very noticeable difference there! With no boost tap & wastegate still attached she boosts about 13 - 14 standard (and spools up to that far quicker than the old hitachi did) gonna hook the tap back up this week to get us back up to the 17+ I had on previous. Crash, any suggestions from you for optimal boost level of these Turbos?
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby Crash bandicoot » Mon Nov 30, 2015 9:21 pm

stovanovich wrote:Anyway, it's a moot point now anyway :lol: on the Garrett though, took it in to work today for a good test run and there's a very noticeable difference there! With no boost tap & wastegate still attached she boosts about 13 - 14 standard (and spools up to that far quicker than the old hitachi did) gonna hook the tap back up this week to get us back up to the 17+ I had on previous. Crash, any suggestions from you for optimal boost level of these Turbos?



yeah, ya power is going to start lower in the rev range now but that's not a bad thing, just means hooking the next gear a bit earlier.

if you havent done the plunger mod on the pump you may run outta fuel before the turbo can spool up to 25 odd psi so a 1/4 turn on the full load screw should see it hit 20 psi, but watch the temps.

they'll push 25 psi for short periods safley, if you have 13mm plunger, but that's pretty much show off mode if ya want to harrarss some one in a folden falcodore....
I dont recommend it if its raining. :mrgreen:

I usually run mine around 18-20 psi daily, note though, if the ole TD is a bit tired she may get a bit more blow by, nothing to be too concerned about if ya got a oil catch can with a drain back to the sump.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Sun Jan 10, 2016 4:05 pm

So been a bit quiet on here of late out playing in the truck around the show. New turbo working great hits a comfortable 18-20psi mark which is more than enough to get the BFGs going.

I have done some work on the Electric Fans front without messing with the waterpump. As I have removed my aircon radiator I had a bit of space in front of radiator & transcooler to fit the maxima fans (which given the fan type I simply had to reverse the polarity to get decent air pushing through. The idea behind this was that if it turned out I wasn't getting enough cooling then I could simply refit my viscous fan as well. Ran her down central north island and over the kaimais without drama so I think she's finally at a good point now as far as cooling system is concerned. The Fans are dual switched through a thermo switch & Manual master rocker switch. All running through a relay of course.

Bad pic but there's some fans tucked in there:
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Secondly I finally got around to completing the rest of the R50 centre console swap which now features the R50 Auto Shifter. A bit of extra dicking around and scraped knuckles but got there in the end, haven't quite got all the lights side of it wired up but it goes through the gears just fine.

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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby fh2014 » Sun Jan 10, 2016 8:40 pm

Nice going ,

Id be concerned about running those fans backwards, but only if they are the curved blade type. straight blade type can be reversed safely I believe.

I am also doing the electric fan mod and managed to get my viscous coupling off the water pump today. What a nightmare, grinders, sabre saws, vices, pliers, hammers and pry bars. we kept it cool, hopefully doesn't leak because ill bet that is an expensive water pump.

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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Sun Jan 10, 2016 9:52 pm

Yeah Maxima ones are pretty straight, only a real subtle curve. I actually have a hunch which I'm waiting to test that a TD42 waterpump will bolt up, at a basic glance of one on a truck it looks like it might but I'm waiting to grab my mate's busted one to put them side by side for a better look. If so then this will make the whole job that much easier for others :lol:
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby Rusty » Mon Jan 11, 2016 10:37 pm

Very nice!

Quick question about the turbo, did it bolt up to the stock TD27t manifold? Or did you lift the entire assembly off the R50?

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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Wed Jan 13, 2016 7:30 am

Yep straight bolt up, manifold is identical on the R50 TD27
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Sun Jul 10, 2016 4:38 pm

So I've been very quiet on the forum of late, (New role at work at the start of the year which means a lot less time for internet shenanigans)

Here's the lowdown of the past few months:

Truck was going great all throughout the start of the year however on one particular run late March this happened:
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So not the ideal situation, but in this sport we love it does happen! Both driver & co-driver walked away unharmed, truck was also still in good shape (minus a dent in the door which was easily popped out again). However later that day we heard a loud bang from the front end (figured it must have been a CV giving out as there was a little clicking to that point)
Pulled the CVs to put the spares in and... nope CVs were fine... this could only mean something inside the diff.

We towed her out the rest of the way & thus began acquiring parts for the big project.
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Re: Building Te-Rino

Postby stovanovich » Sun Jul 10, 2016 4:55 pm

So I had landed a 4.8 front diff on Trade-me about a month or so prior to the above mentioned trip for a steal thinking that one day i'd start a project to swapping over from my 4.6s to 4.8s. Since the front diff had to come out anyway I figured now was as good a time as any, so after sourcing some 4.8 gears to go in the rear I began the swap.

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Sump plug from 4.6 front diff... Pretty sure it ain't supposed to look like that.

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4.6 front diff out... Looking pretty Hillbilly

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Re-Shimmed LSD & bolted the 4.8 gears on (with some help from big tools & smart minds)

Meanwhile whilst all this was going on I was getting a package a day in the courier, figured whilst everything was a part I might as well make the most of it:

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Super-Lift UCAs courtesy of Steevo @ Rugged Rocks
[img]New%20low%20profile%20bolt%20in%20front%20bump%20stops[/img]

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Gotta love the look of those UCAs!

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All Topped off with a set of Rancho 5112s (some of the longest extended length bolt in Rancho Options out there whilst still having decent compressed length too, couldn't justify going to the 9000s at this stage)

Put everything together & took her for a run with the club at a local gymkhana... yeah, those 4.8s seem to be working well!
So good to have four wheels spinning again.
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Te Rino
'92 Nissan Terrano | Intercooled TD27T | 33 x 10.5s
Build Thread: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=42742
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"Hubs In, Caps Off"

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