1uzfe conversion cost

[andytoomer]

Hi all
First time caller here.
I am after a ballpark figure for putting a 1uzfe into my 95 manual surf. Current engine has a cracked head apparently (it did get quite hot late one night) but is not using water, getting hot, or showing any other symtoms of illness except it takes a while to start.

I have been advised by a mechanic mate to drop a V8 in it.

So i need some info on the 1uzfe versus the factory 3 l turbo.

Firstly what are the rough prices for a) fixing current engine and b)converting to V8 power. Parts, labour, cert etc

What are 1uzs like on fuel? etc etc

Should I go manual or auto?
Cheers in advance team.

[jonossiksilvia]

Hi Welcome

There are a lot of topics on here about fixing your motor and how to reduce the chances of it happening again as well as adding more power.
There is also alot and i mean alot of topics on here and on google about the 1uz route.

Fixing current motor will be the cheaper option and easier.

1uz swaps can be as low as $5000 if you do a shit load yourself but if sending somewhere for a mechanic to do it, its gonna go up big time.

hope this helps a little

[philux]

What makes you think its got a cracked head if it only got hot? if it has it will be showing some symptoms. Lexus v8 is cool but in reality it will probably still be cheaper and less labour to fix the donk thats in there.

[derk]

as per post further up once you start adding up all the small shit $5k to do a 1UZ-FE swap would be a pretty thrifty start price assuming your doing it all your self

Ballpark:
engine $1k-1.5k, bellhousing, flywheel and/or adaptor kit if going manual $1k-$3k, clutch $300 for a cheapy or $800+ for a good clamping one so you smoke the tyres up instead of the flywheel , loom link computer and tuning $1.5k-$3k, exhausts, radiator, hoses, mounts, filters, airbox, adaptors,nuts, bolts, brackets, welding, beer, pizza, blah blah $1.5k-$2.5k, engine swap and brake test lvvta certification $500, additional compliance shit to do to get it to pass certification $500.... like all good things it starts adding up, some people get away with managing to find lots of shit around the shed and do the whole lot for next to nothing but for the rest of the world its never quite as cheap I'd be budgeting between $5k-$10k realistically, probably more economic to flog your one off and buy one already converted for $8k that owes them $15k


All ballpark figures crunch the numbers yourself and see what you come up with

[micahb]

With half the money itd cost paying someone else to do conversion, you could fix your current 1kz and future proof it and get it going a shit load sweeter.
Looking at about 10k give or take drive in drive out for 1uz conversion.

[Jerry]

I have a 1uz adaptor plate for sale
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =709417550


If its a cracked 1kz head genuine heads are cheap from Toyota may be a cheaper option to just replace it

ECU's cause issues as well as the stop valve on the diesel pump, has the head been tested?

[nzlux]

With half the money itd cost paying someone else to do conversion, you could fix your current 1kz and future proof it and get it going a shit load sweeter.
Looking at about 10k give or take drive in drive out for 1uz conversion.

Totally agree

For $5k I had my toyota 3L fully reconditioned, new pistons, rings, head and radiator, and I did none of it myself. It is such a different truck to drive now (still no turbo but way more power than a worn out engine)

[Mattman]

If you get a complete motor in good condition with uncut loom and ecu and trans you could do an auto conversion for less than 5k if you did it all yourself.

Most conversions end up having to alter driveshafts and a decent cooling system and a good exhaust and certification quickly burns the $$$.

As mentioned a drive in/out conversion will easily be 10k for a quality build.

Matt

[williamhamilton]

As above the price guides are all pretty good and you will always find a range. I have a few 1UZ motors sitting in the shed at the moment (all for sale if anyone wants one ) BUT before you decide to move to the lovely V8 side of life get an idea on the repair costs for your current motor.

It is worth getting some tests done to make sure head is cracked.. even take it off and drop off at your local engine rebuilder if you are keen enough.

Where in the country are you?

[andytoomer]

Cheers for the reponse fellas.

So the head has been tested and it has no compression hence its very hard to start, I don't get why, if the head is cracked, its not using water or heating up again.
The cost of a conversion is a bit prohibitive at the mo so what options do I look at now?. I'm told with a new head it might still be a bastard to start since it has been a tad hot!!!!

[lexlux]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 486741.htm
if your still going 1uz its cheaper to buy one allready done .

[Andygoodbloke]

Cheers for the reponse fellas.

So the head has been tested and it has no compression hence its very hard to start, I don't get why, if the head is cracked, its not using water or heating up again.
The cost of a conversion is a bit prohibitive at the mo so what options do I look at now?. I'm told with a new head it might still be a bastard to start since it has been a tad hot!!!!

Like many others, it would be cheaper to leave the vehicle's engine in, and fix it. If you want a V8 petrol 4wd, buy one once yours is fixed. Toyota diesels tend to get a tad hot and crack heads. (buy a Nissan and replace the gearbox instead ha ha) Where the crack is depends on the symptoms, for example if cracked between the water jacket and oil galleries you get oil and water mix problems, but if cracked on the top of the cylinder it wouldn't run as the 4 strokes being 1 inlet, 2 compression, 3 power, 4 exhaust, won't work with no compression. In the UK you can buy test strips to put in the radiator water which detects exhaust gas, if leaking there. Don't forget to recondition the cooling system to ensure the new heads doesn't suffer the same fate

[lexulance]

I have done the 1uz conversion myself, all up it cost me $6k, honestly, I wish in some ways I hadn't, they don't like water, doesn't matter how well you think you have them water proofed it still gets in, yes they sound cool and are fun to drive, but, as with any theory if you want power you must pay for it, they drink like a rugby team , I have mine running lean as I have a link in it I can change the programming easily, its in an 83 hilux, there isn't much left that is standard lux though, the best open road economy I get is 6.5km/l that's it. that's my two cents

[BlakeNZ]

there is a crowd in wellington who do a drive in drive out "head fix(replacement head)" for $3800 i'm told.
I suggest you fix what you have, Put a 3" dump pipe and exhaust on, install an EGT gauge, and drive for a while to see if you love the truck.

[BGOSNZ]

Cheers for the reponse fellas.

So the head has been tested and it has no compression hence its very hard to start, I don't get why, if the head is cracked, its not using water or heating up again.
The cost of a conversion is a bit prohibitive at the mo so what options do I look at now?. I'm told with a new head it might still be a bastard to start since it has been a tad hot!!!!

I know I am months late with this but in case it is now growing weeds

If you have no compression it could be a blown gasket - blown between cylinders. It could also be a stuffed valve or two.

To eliminate or identify the head add some oil down the spark plug hole, if the compression improves it is the rings more than the head.

To have no compression at all on all cyls is quite serious - check for a hedgehog blocking your snorkel.