disc brake on lux axles under a zuk

[Rotazuk]

Gidday

Well in prep for the second round of the fun trials up here in akl I though I should sort a few things out . Noticed a powersteering fluid leak when I put the zuk on the trailer the other day and the pump was starting to make funny noises . Found one of the connections lose , so sorted that and filled it up again . Seems ok .

Anyway then i thought while its out I will look at the hand brake , it has not had one for some time . Crawled under and , as suspected , not much adjustment left . Ok , so I pulled a wheel and removed a drum .



And thats after I dug out some of the mud . This is not entirely unexpected , it has been neglected the last few outting as it was not running well . At first glance I thought sweet the shoes are not too bad , then I looked again



Hmmm , what to do . The chances of me getting that lot cleaned up and new brake shoes on with out breaking something or exposing a leak from the cylinder is nil , so I stuck the drum back on and put it back in the shed for tomorrow . Its got freshly o/h'ed front brakes that are sweet .

Im not that rough , really . Its just I have all the bits I need now to convert it to disc rear so will do that next week some time . I have Mitsi calipers , some brand new disc's and a set of brackets of Steve . The zuk ran disc's alround on its old 413 axles with Cresida read disc's so hope the master cyl will be up to it .

Now i have to trim the axle flange to fit the disc over , "is that right" ? ( free chocolate fish to who guesses were the "is that right" phrase comes from ) and open up the centre of the disc to go over the flange also ?

Will post a few pic's as it goes . Also I may have to mount the caliper on the front side of the axle , I can't see any major reason why I can't do this , can anyone else ?

Chris

[SupraLux]

Now i have to trim the axle flange to fit the disc over , "is that right" ? ( free chocolate fish to who guesses were the "is that right" phrase comes from ) and open up the centre of the disc to go over the flange also ?

Hi Chris, yes thats right - take around 5-6mm off each from memory - although when you do the disc rotor take just enough off to make it a snug fit, that keeps things centred.

When you bolt the calipers to the brackets you will need a 5mm spacer (I think from memory its a pair of M10 bolts that hold the caliper on so 2 M12 nuts are about perfect spacers if you have nothing else - its what I tend to use) to align the caliper on the disc properly.

Good luck, post pics

Steve

[De-Ranged]

I'm guessing your using solid disks from an early hilux with the mitzi calipers
if so machine the axle flange till you hit the tin gaurd on the inside, its not normally mounted true so I find you'll normally need another mm or two
the inside mounting hole of the disk will only need machined if you are mounting them on a surf axle, if yours is a non-ifs axle it should slot on and fit perfictly
as for the mounting plate to hold the caliper, I can't be certain with the gallant calipers I've been playing with the nissan ones and they are 7.5mm offset from the bearing housing/axle bolt tabs
If you want I have some brake plates drilled to fit the housing that havn't been machined to fit the calipers yet

Cheers Reece

[Rotazuk]

yep they are 85 ish hilux axles so sounds like the disc's will fit over , sweet . just have to pull the axles out and trim them up , will put the new diff in while I am at it .
Glad I did not wast the time fixing the old drum brakes , 30 mins into yesterday and its parked on teh side of the track . All for a fuel pump eh , left spare at home .

Will post pic's when I do it but will not be for a few days

Cheers
Chris

[meatc]

Hey. I am planning the same sort of mod to my toy. Need to get it a bit closer to runing first though

Any way been looking around and a lot of the US suzuki guys are finding they need bigger master cylinders and use a firebird one. Then tonight I found the link below. It uses a subaru master cylinder which is as close to a bolt on conversion as you are ever likely to get and goes form 7/8th (suzuki) bore to 1 1/8th (subaru bore)

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,57063.0.html

Not sure if this will help or even if it is really necessary but worth a thought.

I will be watching the rest of your build with interest. Oh and what mitsi calipers are you using

Dan

[Rotazuk]

Ok so had a bit of a play tonight with the brakes , I am committed now as the old drum brakes came out in several pieces . most of the springs were broken and those that weren't are now

The disc's do not need machining out in the centre hub , they are too big already so will have to machine the axle face to hold the disc central .





Pulled the axle out , the bearing housing came out with it . On a zuk axle the bearing fits into the axle itself and the backing plate of the brake holds it in .



This is the only way around the calipers will fit , the hand brake cable will have to run under tha axle , not good but too bad .



I have tapped out the studs from the bearing housing and pulled the circlip out from around the bearing retainer and started to gring off the retainer as the bearing is shot , really shot .



Steve you say cut of the backing plate etc , I guess this separates from the bearing housing once the bearings and axle is out , is this the case ? Or do you trim around the housing , I doubt this as you would have nowhere to bolt the caliper mount to as it has to go on the outside of the bearing housing as it does not fit over the axle .

Well see if I get the bearing off tomorrow then I will pull the other side out , now that it is back in the carport , I can't get both sides out at once so had to drop that side on a trolley jack and drive it back in for the night . Worked a treat but may be difficult to get it back out to put the axle back in

Cheers
Chris

[De-Ranged]

Steve was talking about how to do it if you don't pull the bearing, if you are pulling the bearing (now that you've ground the locking ring) the plate will come off when the axle bearing drops down... you can machine them with the bearings still on

once you have the ring ground down belt it with a could chissle, to snap it off... oh a good tip when your grinding them out, your getting close when the bottom of the cut turns blue oh and I use a grinding disk not a cutting disk the grinding disk is slower meaning your less likly to cut the axle

If you don't have a press find a big block of hardwood screw the backing plate back on with a couple of bolts and wrap a rag or two round it grab the bastard lift it above your head and slam the axle down onto the block of wood pushing the plate down the axle.... a couple of these and you should slid the bearing off backing plate and all

Cheers Reece

[Rotazuk]

Ok , well i got the bearing keepers ground off and pressed the bearings out at my old work . They would not budge with a hammer or the block of wood as De ranged suggested , back to eating more weeties for breaky I think .



The axles are up at an engineers getting the flange cut down as my lathe is a bit weedy also and can only take zuk axles .
I took the seal off the backing plate and then bashed it with a big mallet until the bearing housing came out , just about gave up but it came out in the end .



Does anyone know if you can get new rubber seals for the bearing housing ? Is it worth putting them back on , I think so . Do they come with the bearings ?


Cheers for the link on the suby cylinder , I have one in the shed that was going on if I had issues when I went to dics on the zuk axles but never needed it . WIll be interesting to see if I need it with the lux axles .

Cheers
chris

[De-Ranged]

All the bearings I've used from BNT come with the seals as a kit

Cheers Reece, De-Ranged Engineering
027 541 8794

[SupraLux]

Reece has pretty much answered all the questions that started with "Steve, how do you...?" So all I'll say is keep up the good work Yes the rear wheel bearing kits I sell have the big dust seal in them too... Should have the bearing, the axle tube (inner) seal, the big dust seal and the retainer ring. Put the bearing on the shaft, then the retainer ring, then use a big length of steam pipe the right size to push on the retainer ring and thump the snot out of it till everything is seated and you can get the circlip back on - this is the official method used by my local Toyota agency

Steve (not Reece)

[De-Ranged]

Thanks for that Steve I needed a laugh

[Heath]

Is that a metric snot or one of those imperial / witworth type snots? I assume the toyota steam pipe is chromed with gold trim, is used only once before it is thrown away and is used only by the most expensive guy in the shop otherwise they cant justify their costs.

Heath

[Rotazuk]

Ok , well I got the axles back from the machine shop , you are pretty close if you just trim to the tin guard on the back as De-ranged said .



Then I had to go out and buy a new bearing installation tool , seen inbetween the two axles here , as mine only fits suzuki axles . The first bearing was a cow to put on as I was hammering the "Tool" , on the second one it dawned on me to just slide the pipe up and down the axle . This went on with half the effort and no damage to the axle .



Then just a trial fit of the axle , caliper , bracket and disc .





This shows that I need a 7mm packer to space out the caliper . All my 12mm nuts are 10mm think so i had to machine up a couple of spacers and welded them to the bracket and painted them up . I had to go and buy a parting tool for the lathe too , being cheep I got the one you have to shape . Then took a few goes to grind up a good tip , well good for me anyway , and as usual its on the very last of the last spacer you get it right , grr .



It looks like I will be able to get the caliper up teh right way and get the hand brake cable over the top of the axle , will go scavenge one from the wreckers in teh weekend and see how it fits . Get a few more coats of paint on , trim the brake lines a bit and its already to bolt up . Small issue thou , the caliper bracket only just fits on over the axle assy , well with a bfh behind it it does , this will mark the paint on install thou .

Cheers
Chris

[SupraLux]

It looks like I will be able to get the caliper up teh right way and get the hand brake cable over the top of the axle , will go scavenge one from the wreckers in teh weekend and see how it fits . Get a few more coats of paint on , trim the brake lines a bit and its already to bolt up . Small issue thou , the caliper bracket only just fits on over the axle assy , well with a bfh behind it it does , this will mark the paint on install thou .

I normally just 'flatten' the inner bumps on the bracket with an angle grinder before installing it, this fixes that wee problem. Bracket MKII will have this from the factory, as will it have the spacers - although the Galant calipers are becoming hard to find so maybe I'll design one for something else.... I'm still thinking that one through

Looking good tho, a little too pretty maybe, but nice to see it coming together... and your install tool looksjust like the Toyota one I mentioed above apart from they have two steel handles, one either side of the top of the pipe

Steve

[Rotazuk]

Maybe I start selling off the calipers , dime a dozen here at takanini pick a part . I rummbled through about four sets until I found one with almost new pads , althou they did charge me an extra $2 I think for them .

I would consider something else thou as the disc can take a lot bigger pad than the caliper has . Know idea what that has not already been discussed . Will easily stop the zuk thou .

Chris

[Rotazuk]

Well no pictures today , not much more to see . Got the other side caliper all mounted up and altered the brake line to suit . Bleed the brakes and all seems good ( so something has to go wrong ) . The pedal travel is good with the standard 413 master cylinder , the rear brakes don't lock up like they did withe the old suzuki axles and disc's alround ( may have something to do with zuk disc's on the front and creseda disc's on the rear ) . With the toyota 4pot calipers on the front and the misti sigle pot on the rear it seems ok , remember this does not run on the road and in 4wd front and rear bias is out the window anyway .

Went back to pick a part to get a misti hand brake cable and thought I woudl see how much work it will be to install . Well the good news is it fits right in to the old cable mounts , I was running honda CRX handbrake cables for the toyota drums . The only problem is they are about a foot too long , so off to autostop to get them shortened and I may have a working handbrake ( for the first time in a year or so ) for the 3rd fun trial this weekend . Now if I DNF this round ( 3 out of 3 ) there will be some parts for sale including a newly setup hilux axle

This little exersice has cost about $500 ,
Caliper mounts ~ $100 at the time - From Steve
Calipers $30 From pick a part
Wheels bearings $150 BNT
Machine Axle flange $45
Disc's $150 Autostop , need to scrounge wreckers next time
Handbrake cable $30 Pick a part .

Out of that thou I have a nice new rear end with easy to clean brakes and a good diff head ( well one that does not have pinion shaft marks in the carrier housing )


Cheers

Chris

[MNC]

Hi All, Does anyone have a template to make a similar bracket for mounting Saburu calipers to a Landcruiser 60 series full floating rear diff???

Cheers,

[Big]

here here..I'm looking for a 70 series disc setup..??BJ70..cheers

[turoa]

I made up some galant calipers to cruiser rear. the 4 bolt kind