petefj40's build/mods

[petefj40]

Hi guys.
As I'm a little excited about a couple of new mods happening to my 40 i had to share it with you.
I wish i had the knowledge, time and the tools to do the work (like most of you) myself, but i don't. So I've asked Ric at 4WD Accessories to do it. He's come up with a few good ideas. I'm glad i have his help and time.

Things that are getting done.
-Stock fuel tank removed. Custom alloy one being fitted in the rear. That will make space for two things:
-1.Rear diff stabilizer. So i don't shear any more pinions.
-2.Air compressor tank. Not sure on size yet. As big as will fit anyway.
-Hooking up original aircon pump to motor to be used as an air compressor. (I like that idea)
-Rancho in car shock adjusters. I already have the adjustable shocks. Why not go all the way.
-Custom made airbox (I should have one).
-Swapping the sump pan for one that has the drop at the back instead of the front. As the one on it has a section cut out to make space for the front diff. Wasn't a good idea, but that's how it was done.
-Might be going for rear disc brakes, as the diff housing has been bashed near the wheel bearing housing, causing the diff oil to leak into the wheel bearing. I'll see if the flat spot can be made into a circle again. Not happy about that.
-last thing. A rail to be made up for the soft top at the rear.

All the fabrication work is done by Corey Taylor. He has some damn good ideas and has been a great help getting my 40 together. With Both Corey and Ric on the job I'm confident I'll end up with an even better 40 than I had already.

SO! That's about all the mods to be done so far.
I'll post pictures of the progress.

Pete.

[Sadam_Husain]

Might be going for rear disc brakes, as the diff housing has been bashed near the wheel bearing housing, causing the diff oil to leak into the wheel bearing. I'll see if the flat spot can be made into a circle again. Not happy about that.

I've got an old 40 series full floating diff housing sitting behind the shed if you want it and can find some way of getting it down there.

[petefj40]

Might be going for rear disc brakes, as the diff housing has been bashed near the wheel bearing housing, causing the diff oil to leak into the wheel bearing. I'll see if the flat spot can be made into a circle again. Not happy about that.

I've got an old 40 series full floating diff housing sitting behind the shed if you want it and can find some way of getting it down there.

Hey thanks for the thought! I might take you up on that offer yet. I'll get back to you. Cheers!!

[petefj40]

Opps. I forgot to mention. The biggest mod being dome is an 60 series 5 speed box replacing the 4 speed. But before that gets installed the box/transfer case is getting new bearing. I thought there was something i missed.

[wopass]

[quote="petefj40"]Hi guys.

-1.Rear diff stabilizer. So i don't shear any more pinions.


this is the new bar i made to prevent axle wrap(smashing pinions and bending springs) dunno how good it is yet as i havent given it a hard time

[petefj40]

Looks good wopass!! Do you have any other higher res pix of the job?? I'd like to see more if that's cool?
Where mines going to be anchored is on the cross member between the chassis rails. Now the tank is out of the way it should be easy. Can't wait to give it heaps once the job's done. With the 33's on I'm hoping to get the front wheels in the air. As well as smokin them hard out. I'll be youtubing the video. Watch this space.
My twin brother has a farm near Westmelton. He's into his V8's more than I am. He's planning on building a burnout pad next to the barn this year. I have 14 worn out 18 inch tyres behind my garage just waiting for this pad.

[petefj40]

First progressive pictures.

[rangimotors]

not trying to spam your build thread but the coolest part of those pictures is the bad ass hammer in the last pic

[petefj40]

not trying to spam your build thread but the coolest part of those pictures is the bad ass hammer in the last pic

Each to there own. The 3 inch system gets me more excited than a hammer does. But that's just me.

[rangimotors]

yes indeed i think its pretty cool that even though you had a big bad ass truck built your still looking for new ways to improve it, well done and keep it up. I look forward to seeing it out and about again soon.

ps. there is something about hammers everyone should have a big F-off one in there garage

[wjw]

not trying to spam your build thread but the coolest part of those pictures is the bad ass hammer in the last pic

Thats Ricks "Special" hammer

While doing all that, Why not do a Spring over at the same time?

[86-surf]

not trying to spam your build thread but the coolest part of those pictures is the bad ass hammer in the last pic

Thats Ricks "Special" hammer

While doing all that, Why not do a Spring over at the same time?

I was thinking the same thing.

[petefj40]

not trying to spam your build thread but the coolest part of those pictures is the bad ass hammer in the last pic

Thats Ricks "Special" hammer

While doing all that, Why not do a Spring over at the same time?

I was thinking the same thing.

Good question guys.
I have seriously thought about it. It comes down to, what i use it for mostly. And that is. First as an everyday run about. So I jump in and out of it heaps. (love it when the doors are off) Higher off the ground would be a pain (for an old bastard like me). I drive up to Nelson often so I want it to handle as good as a brick can handle. Again. Being top heavy wouldn't help it round corners. Lastly, I've seen the angle the UJ's are on with a Spring over. The amount of stress I'll be putting them under with 400 horses? No thanks.
I'm happy with just updating the leaf springs. The amount of off roading I do in a year in it doesn't warrant a Sring over. But hey, It would look so cool though!

[petefj40]

Changing the subject a little.
Just found a new sump for my 40's LS1. It's new. Made for a Carmaro. Has the drop at the back. Ex Aussy. $1200NZ. Includes new dip stick, pick ups and baffles. It'll be fitted by Kevin Geary. But it's the last thing to be installed. But finally, I don't have to worry about the motor loosing oil pressure anymore.

[H2OLOVA]

i cant believe you'd spend 1200 bucks on a sump . surely it would be waaayyyy cheaper to fab up a new one

and if your gonna swap out the gearbox then its only a few more bolts to take off the sump etc.

[skid]

i cant believe you'd spend 1200 bucks on a sump . surely it would be waaayyyy cheaper to fab up a new one

my whole complete bolt into the 40 and turn the key dirty ol 350 chev was 2 thirds that price.

holy crap pete

do you wanna give some of that money you're throwing around away, coz you could always throw some my way

do want any middle aged balding kids DADDY

[petefj40]

i cant believe you'd spend 1200 bucks on a sump . surely it would be waaayyyy cheaper to fab up a new one

and if your gonna swap out the gearbox then its only a few more bolts to take off the sump etc.

I hear ya. But i spent over $6.5k just buying the motor. Another $1.2k is insurance for me that a sump will last the life of the engine. After all. It was built for it. The one on it was fabricated and didn't cut it. I'm not going to take that risk again.

[petefj40]

i cant believe you'd spend 1200 bucks on a sump . surely it would be waaayyyy cheaper to fab up a new one

my whole complete bolt into the 40 and turn the key dirty ol 350 chev was 2 thirds that price.

holy crap pete

do you wanna give some of that money you're throwing around away, coz you could always throw some my way

do want any middle aged balding kids DADDY

I know what you mean. There are way cheaper ways skid, point taken. But mine is street legal bro.
When I first paid the $16k for the re-power. My attitude was, "do it once, do it RIGHT!" Little did I know. (take that which every way you like) I didn't think I'd have to pay all the extra to get it done to the quality I wanted. it's slowly getting there.

I'm just lucky i can afford it I guess. But I don't think I'm throwing money way. Cause I'm getting want i wanted.

[petefj40]

i cant believe you'd spend 1200 bucks on a sump . surely it would be waaayyyy cheaper to fab up a new one

my whole complete bolt into the 40 and turn the key dirty ol 350 chev was 2 thirds that price.

holy crap pete

do you wanna give some of that money you're throwing around away, coz you could always throw some my way

do want any middle aged balding kids DADDY

I know what you mean. There are way cheaper ways skid, point taken. But mine is street legal bro.
When I first paid the $16k for the re-power. My attitude was, "do it once, do it RIGHT!" Little did I know. (take that which every way you like) I didn't think I'd have to pay all the extra to get it done to the quality I wanted. it's slowly getting there.

I'm just lucky i can afford it I guess. But I don't think I'm throwing money way. Cause I'm getting want i wanted.

[skid]

Cause I'm getting want i wanted.

you're getting what a lot of people want

[petefj40]

Cause I'm getting want i wanted.

you're getting what a lot of people want

And I feel lucky for that skid.

So far the build is up to approx $25k. It might reach over $30k. But for what I'll have at the end of it? I think it'll be worth it. Hell. i was at Pete Munro's the other month. Saw this 40 being built from the ground up. I think that builds budget was close to $90k. But then, for what that guy will get at the end of it, I still think it will be money well spent. Wish I could afford that kind of a budget! The 40 will be the shit!!
Some guys that have seen it will know the 40 I'm talking about. It makes mine look like a piece of crap.

[wopass]

Looks good wopass!! Do you have any other higher res pix of the job?? I'd like to see more if that's cool?
Where mines going to be anchored is on the cross member between the chassis rails.

something like that

[petefj40]

Looks good wopass!! Do you have any other higher res pix of the job?? I'd like to see more if that's cool?
Where mines going to be anchored is on the cross member between the chassis rails.

something like that

Cheers wopass! Looks great!
My setup will be very similar, only, it'll be shackled at the cross member not welded.
Awesome!

[wopass]

Looks good wopass!! Do you have any other higher res pix of the job?? I'd like to see more if that's cool?
Where mines going to be anchored is on the cross member between the chassis rails.

something like that

Cheers wopass! Looks great!
My setup will be very similar, only, it'll be shackled at the cross member not welded.
Awesome!

it is shackled at the cross member only the top bush tube is welded to the cross tube for the fixed point, then has a shackle to enable forward and rearward movement of the springs and has a srewed rod and eye which is floating to enable the rear axle to flex without any binding at all. dont know if its going to work yet or not...should do but will only find out when i give it a hard time at the next rally ...if it breaks....ill just make it even bigger and stronger

as my 40 has 36" wheels and does a bit more hard work the rear axle probably see's a lot more applied tourque than yours so i would imagine that your builder will have something cool in mind,having said that, you should show him the pix of mine to give him some cool ideas

[petefj40]

He will see the pix. (cheers) The builder has already told me he's read this thread. He's a good bloke and is open minded. Open to new ideas, has some good ones of his own.
When he's off roading. I think he thinks, if he hasn't broken anything, he hasn't gone hard enough. He loves getting lots of air so I'm told.

[muddy]

When you put the 5 speed box in, you'll find it's about 90mm longer than the 4 speed so will move the the transfer case rearwards, requiring a shorter rear D/S and longer front D/S. If you do a spring flip, it gains about the same amount so can keep the same rear D/S. Worked for me, sort of - I actually put in 60 series springs cos I had them, but the measurements work out the same.

[petefj40]

When you put the 5 speed box in, you'll find it's about 90mm longer than the 4 speed so will move the the transfer case rearwards, requiring a shorter rear D/S and longer front D/S. If you do a spring flip, it gains about the same amount so can keep the same rear D/S. Worked for me, sort of - I actually put in 60 series springs cos I had them, but the measurements work out the same.

Cheers. I was told about the different driveshaft lengths before buying the 5 speed. That's cool. I'll live with that. I couldn't live with a spring flip. (as I explained earlier) But thanks anyway.

[petefj40]

Here's a couple of pix of the factory aircon pump being fitted. Never thought I'd be putting that back in.
Cost.
$250 Air conditioning pump.

[petefj40]

This is the new 5 speed ready to go in on Wednesday.
Cost.
$1200 Second hand box n transfer case.
$1600 Rebuild box n transfer case. (new bears all the way through)
$2800 Total cost

[sig]

pete i,m very jealous