engine/trans lift

[matwelli]

Hi guys,

Just going thru the preliminary thinking on raising the engine/trans 2 inches or so, a few articles on http://www.4crawler.com got me started.

I would post this in the mitsy section, but as we only have 2-3 active owners of the old gen1's on this site I dont think I would get an answer.

web searching comes up with lots of info if only I owned a toyota. (no i dont want 15 posts on the joys of owning a toyota thanks anyway)

I guess some of the questions to be answered for here in NZ is what certing would be required if any. The body lift is do-able without a cert (2 inch max ?)
What about the two new engine mounts and the modified cross members (2 at the back of a paj)

The reasoning behind this whole exercise is an extra couple of inches clearance under the chassis in addition to lifting the suspension (as the truck is IFS I can only gain 2-3 inches of lift from the front, unless de-ranged get his IFS ideas working).

The transfer case armour is the lowest part on the truck (210 mm from the deck) and its the one part I regularly get hung up on

[De-Ranged]

know that feeling last trip I bent the transfer case gard bad enough to be resting on the case !

Not a problem now tho

As for the lift be carfull as the drive shaft sliders are part of the oilseal on your gearbox if you move it much, it might let them slide out to far and bye bye gearbox oil
The front shouldn't be a problem as its going to a fixed axle but your back will move out a bit as it drops
build a spacer on the back of the shaft to push it up a bit and you should beat this

Cheers Reece

[NJV6]

HI Mat, what size tyres are you running? It could possibly be easier to get an extra inch or so just from bigger tyres? If you did your body lift then you'd squeeze 33's without to much of a sweat as well and get an extra 2 inches under the diff's from standard....

NJ

[Heath]

The bad news about a body lift is that it requires certification as you have modified the body mounting system and it alters the Ctr of Gravity. The good news is if you do this then get everything done at once for the one certification cost (wider wheels, tyres etc)

Heath

[matwelli]

De-ranged, a bit like this mate ?

Thanks for the tip on the shaft spacer

NJV6 - currently running 30's. I know I can run bigger tyres without a lift, and will do in the future, but the body lift seems simple enough, and the transmission lift looks to be a relatively easy way to grab a couple of inches.

Heath - thanks for the heads up on the certing, I had assumed that up to a 2 inch lift did not require certing ?

[De-Ranged]

na mine was the standard one, you know the one made out of tinfoil the bottom front corner of it was hard up against the case and it had worn part of the case away!!

Still looking at ideas for trans bumped into a longtime local trails driver and he's suggested a different idea (other than the 70 series 5speed cruiser box) him and a couple of others are looking at putting a clutch on a specailly locked auto trans.... you use the clutch to start but once underway you change up and down on the auto, sounds good quick shifts up and down

As for the independent syspension I've talked to quite a few guys about this and they've all hit a wall at 12" travel, or if you lift the diff 10" (4" down and 6" up but the diff will sit 2" higher than standard) and its gona cost to do it back axle & syspension $2200, front $3500 but this is all good enough to handle a V8 thrashing it
Just as a sideline working on a combo for those with IFS surfs and pajero's that is a lot cheaper but it just won't be stong enough to handle V8 repower's

Keep us posted on how you go

Cheers Reece