HI All
I looking at buy a 4x4 for recreational use (60/40 60% 4x4)
I have come across a 89 FRP 3.4 4cyl turbo 5spd,has factory elect winch,diff locks(F+R manual levers right hand side)no other 4x4 mods,been used as tow vehicle last 3+ yrs.Is in average condition but the price reflects that to some extent.
Has slight gear box wine 4th-5th(probley from towing)possible diff pinion bearing(rear)noise also,diff locks hard to engage not been used for some years.tends to wonder at motor way speed,doesn't thump or bang just feels loose in steering,need to have two goes at a corner sometimes(maybe normal haven't driven many 4wds)
Would need basic lift,shocks,mud tyres(33"),snorkel for off road use,would these mods make it a dog for high way driving?would like to drive chch-nelson with out having to fight it all the way if you know what I mean.
Heres my Questions:
Any common faults to look for that could cost $$$?
are these quite a strong engine?
Can the 3.4 be modded for slight increase in power?(Doesn't feel like a turbo,no mid range surge in power/torque maybe normal???)
What model number is this engine?
Any common faults with the diff locks?do they break at all?(this is probley the big bonus with this vehicle being able to lock/unlock the diffs)
Rust problems?
The big Q is would it be worth it,would need a hell service plus the 4x4 mods(which I'm capable of doing myself,but still alot of worK)vehicle inc mods about $10-12,000,even with the 4wd mods would this be a capable off road vehicle.
Long first up post I know but any info would be much appreciated
Thanks Shane
1989 FRP Cruiser 3.4Turbo:Info
Welcome to the board, and don't apologise for the long post... when you get someone who says "I want to buy a 4WD, what should I get?" Thats the person who should apologise... you've got it narrowed down to the important bits, makes it easy.
The 3.4TD is probably a 13BT engine, have a look on the firewall plate for confirmation.
The 70-series is a good solid reliable bus with few trimmings, but they work hard and go well without needing to be pushed (Unlike Nissans which just need to be pushed - preferably over cliffs
) The diff locks have a reputation of siezing up when not used, but a bit of TLC on the cables should fix that. They are not, by what I have heard, up to competition work, but are more than up to club truck use... Having said that, I haven't heard of anyone who's broken one, but no doubt someone has...
The wandering steering can be a number of things... but if its a hard-k's truck then it might need a knuckle rebuild and new wheel bearings in the front, and new tie rod ends in the steering and a general tighten up in the front. They shouldn't need to "take a couple of goes to get round a corner" - thats something that can and should be fixed. Also check tyre condition and pressures aren't adding to the feel...
The other thing is that the shocks are probably shot and soggy front suspension will cause that wandering feeling... disconnect the front shocks and see how easy they are to push up and down... should be very stiff, if not replace them with some good long travel gas charged shocks or adjustable ones if you think you need them. 50mm lifted springs are available for these from several manufacturers, and the MaxiTrac brand I sell have just released the 70-series springs here in NZ so I'll get you a price if you're interested.
While you are doing the springs at least replace the bushes as they could also be adding to the problem if they are factory new ones... budget around $135ish for a full truck set of those in urethane. If you don't like squeaking bushes then get greasable shackles and pins as well... they're cheap and its better than dissassembling the suspension all the time to grease them.
The gearbox on these is pretty strong, but if its been used hard it might need a rebuild... this can be pricey so it might pay to ask a few people before committing to the truck. Whining in 4th 5th may just be the tip of the iceberg.
Diffs are strong, and rebuild kits are readily & cheaply available - just watch who you get to do your diff work... there are some criminal rip-off artists in the diff business in Chch... I've compiled a few horror stories from one diff shop in particular.
Get good quality 33"s (BFG muds are a good choice in my book for a 60/40, or the Goodyear MT/R's) which will make driving at open road speeds a bit more bearable... they shouldn't need fighting and do fit those trucks nicely, although they will probably rub on the chassis under articulation - get Hilux backspaced 15" rims to help with that as I think from memory they are slightly better spaced out.
Common faults with these trucks: rust. check the back corners and all around the floor and firewall and door bottoms. Other than that I think they are pretty good unless its just plain worn out in which case it would get pricey.
13BTs are a good donk, period.
Yes they can be modded - talk to a diesel engine specialist first - and ask a few of them as everyone has their own opinions about what you can and can't do, and some will probably have opinions about others ideas too
Would it be worth it? Only you can answer that one... 10-12k all up is not a bad price for a well set up and fully done truck and being able to do the work your self is always going to be a bonus. front rebuild will probably cost you $300-400 or so if you do it yourself, springs around $700, shocks around $500, diff rebuild including kit around $5-700/end, gearbox... god only knows... $2000? budget it and hope its cheaper.
Hope that helps some.
regards
Steve
The 3.4TD is probably a 13BT engine, have a look on the firewall plate for confirmation.
The 70-series is a good solid reliable bus with few trimmings, but they work hard and go well without needing to be pushed (Unlike Nissans which just need to be pushed - preferably over cliffs
) The diff locks have a reputation of siezing up when not used, but a bit of TLC on the cables should fix that. They are not, by what I have heard, up to competition work, but are more than up to club truck use... Having said that, I haven't heard of anyone who's broken one, but no doubt someone has...
The wandering steering can be a number of things... but if its a hard-k's truck then it might need a knuckle rebuild and new wheel bearings in the front, and new tie rod ends in the steering and a general tighten up in the front. They shouldn't need to "take a couple of goes to get round a corner" - thats something that can and should be fixed. Also check tyre condition and pressures aren't adding to the feel...
The other thing is that the shocks are probably shot and soggy front suspension will cause that wandering feeling... disconnect the front shocks and see how easy they are to push up and down... should be very stiff, if not replace them with some good long travel gas charged shocks or adjustable ones if you think you need them. 50mm lifted springs are available for these from several manufacturers, and the MaxiTrac brand I sell have just released the 70-series springs here in NZ so I'll get you a price if you're interested.
While you are doing the springs at least replace the bushes as they could also be adding to the problem if they are factory new ones... budget around $135ish for a full truck set of those in urethane. If you don't like squeaking bushes then get greasable shackles and pins as well... they're cheap and its better than dissassembling the suspension all the time to grease them.
The gearbox on these is pretty strong, but if its been used hard it might need a rebuild... this can be pricey so it might pay to ask a few people before committing to the truck. Whining in 4th 5th may just be the tip of the iceberg.
Diffs are strong, and rebuild kits are readily & cheaply available - just watch who you get to do your diff work... there are some criminal rip-off artists in the diff business in Chch... I've compiled a few horror stories from one diff shop in particular.
Get good quality 33"s (BFG muds are a good choice in my book for a 60/40, or the Goodyear MT/R's) which will make driving at open road speeds a bit more bearable... they shouldn't need fighting and do fit those trucks nicely, although they will probably rub on the chassis under articulation - get Hilux backspaced 15" rims to help with that as I think from memory they are slightly better spaced out.
Common faults with these trucks: rust. check the back corners and all around the floor and firewall and door bottoms. Other than that I think they are pretty good unless its just plain worn out in which case it would get pricey.
13BTs are a good donk, period.
Yes they can be modded - talk to a diesel engine specialist first - and ask a few of them as everyone has their own opinions about what you can and can't do, and some will probably have opinions about others ideas too
Would it be worth it? Only you can answer that one... 10-12k all up is not a bad price for a well set up and fully done truck and being able to do the work your self is always going to be a bonus. front rebuild will probably cost you $300-400 or so if you do it yourself, springs around $700, shocks around $500, diff rebuild including kit around $5-700/end, gearbox... god only knows... $2000? budget it and hope its cheaper.
Hope that helps some.
regards
Steve
-
IcedJohnno
- Trailer Trash
- Posts: 821
- Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:00 pm
- Location: Christchurch nr the hills
My recommendation would be a early 90s Prado Landcruiser similar to the FRP but suspension is coils, they handle really well, way better than a leaf sprung model.
Lifted coils cheaper I think than lifted leafs, easier to get better articulation, and no need to do a body lift to run 33s. Get the 3l t version not the 2.4 t. The 3l 1KZ-TE is a very peppy engine, my truck is regularly driving at 130ks and above.
You wont find one as a medium wheelbase thou, either Lwb or Swb.
They can come with an electric rear diff-lock, as mine has, but not a front one although you can fit one off a an 80 series cruiser. I have also fitted a Lock-right auto-unlocker in the front end. This works in my mind better than a conventional front diff-lock as you still get the same tight turning circle as before the unlocker was fitted. This was the reason I needed the SWB. I used a rear diff-carrier in the front diff as they work more progressively with the Lock-right and are stronger with the cross pin setup where the four sun gears used to be.
I have seen photos of one in NZ with a factory electric winch but I doubt you will find one.
Price range between 8 and 15k now, 2 years ago were 20k
Hope this helps
John
Lifted coils cheaper I think than lifted leafs, easier to get better articulation, and no need to do a body lift to run 33s. Get the 3l t version not the 2.4 t. The 3l 1KZ-TE is a very peppy engine, my truck is regularly driving at 130ks and above.
You wont find one as a medium wheelbase thou, either Lwb or Swb.
They can come with an electric rear diff-lock, as mine has, but not a front one although you can fit one off a an 80 series cruiser. I have also fitted a Lock-right auto-unlocker in the front end. This works in my mind better than a conventional front diff-lock as you still get the same tight turning circle as before the unlocker was fitted. This was the reason I needed the SWB. I used a rear diff-carrier in the front diff as they work more progressively with the Lock-right and are stronger with the cross pin setup where the four sun gears used to be.
I have seen photos of one in NZ with a factory electric winch but I doubt you will find one.
Price range between 8 and 15k now, 2 years ago were 20k
Hope this helps
John
Thanks for info guys
I drove a 95-96 LWB prado a few weeks ago(not looking to buy,wife's boss's car)had a TD3L was auto and went quite well,better than I expected.Compared it next to my friends 80# cruiser,prado seams to be a mini 80#,similar suspension,shorter and narrower.
I do like the look of the SWB Prado,not that many round through,4 sale anyway and even less with 3L engine let alone one with diff lock which I never new they had.They are also bit to much $$$ for me plus most need all the basic 4wd mods done(lift,MTyres,snorkel,winch than locker last)if I can get a vehicle with atleast half the basic mods works out much cheaper than fitting later,can get a 80# with F/R diff locks,factory winch for under $15k which is probley cheaper than a prado given the same mod,just you have to lug round 800+kg more I just cant afford that much though.
I did see a SWB prado today(sockburn,chch) with muds,snorkel,black bull bar etc and I'd have to say it did look quite good.
SWB Nissan safari's
early 90's(GQ?)are another vehicle I have been checking out,only driven one was auto pretty std(didn't like the auto operation)quite a few round with mods not many with factory turbo price jumps too,heavy sucker though 2,410kg SWB from the info I have.
Thanks again
Shane
I drove a 95-96 LWB prado a few weeks ago(not looking to buy,wife's boss's car)had a TD3L was auto and went quite well,better than I expected.Compared it next to my friends 80# cruiser,prado seams to be a mini 80#,similar suspension,shorter and narrower.
I do like the look of the SWB Prado,not that many round through,4 sale anyway and even less with 3L engine let alone one with diff lock which I never new they had.They are also bit to much $$$ for me plus most need all the basic 4wd mods done(lift,MTyres,snorkel,winch than locker last)if I can get a vehicle with atleast half the basic mods works out much cheaper than fitting later,can get a 80# with F/R diff locks,factory winch for under $15k which is probley cheaper than a prado given the same mod,just you have to lug round 800+kg more
I just cant afford that much though.
I did see a SWB prado today(sockburn,chch) with muds,snorkel,black bull bar etc and I'd have to say it did look quite good.
SWB Nissan safari's
early 90's(GQ?)are another vehicle I have been checking out,only driven one was auto pretty std(didn't like the auto operation)quite a few round with mods not many with factory turbo price jumps too,heavy sucker though 2,410kg SWB from the info I have.
Thanks again
Shane
The Prado is a nice truck, and will take up to a 100mm lift with little effort and just a few mods which are well documented (somewhere, can't find them right now, but WJW (Bill) will have them all as he has one of these).
The Safari just doesn't seem like a good driver/4wder option... I know I'm gonna cop it for that (sorry DB ) but I've just spent a bit of time working with a mate who bought one and we just can't seem to get it to articulate. He ended up putting twin ARB lockers in it so he could get over obstacles!
I'm almost certain the coily solid axle prados did come with a factory front locker in some models, Leithfield (Kevin) on here bought a rolled one with twin lockers in it and I'm sure they were factory.
If you're looking around, have you looked at 80-series? I've seen a couple of sub-10k ones advertised on the side of the road in Chch and 50mm coils and long shocks for those will only set you back around $750, cheaper than leafs and more comfy. Just another thought to throw into the mix
Steve
The Safari just doesn't seem like a good driver/4wder option... I know I'm gonna cop it for that (sorry DB
) but I've just spent a bit of time working with a mate who bought one and we just can't seem to get it to articulate. He ended up putting twin ARB lockers in it so he could get over obstacles!
I'm almost certain the coily solid axle prados did come with a factory front locker in some models, Leithfield (Kevin) on here bought a rolled one with twin lockers in it and I'm sure they were factory.
If you're looking around, have you looked at 80-series? I've seen a couple of sub-10k ones advertised on the side of the road in Chch and 50mm coils and long shocks for those will only set you back around $750, cheaper than leafs and more comfy. Just another thought to throw into the mix
Steve