escudo lack of power

[Weemsy]

this problem is on a 92 escudo 5dr auto g16a 16 valve
i put some coby extractors on today and replaced the catalytic convertor with a peice of straight pipe.
i gave it a run afterwards and it seems like there is no bottom end power to it now. it starts to pick up after about 2500rpm but is shite below that, and not great above it. not good for off roading!!
one think i noticed is that the new flange on the extractors covers the egr hole so no exhaust gas will be getting to the egr system.
has anyone else had the same problem?? can i just jam the diaphragm on the egr and be done or is it more complicated than that, or do i get the egr operational again by making a pipe from the downpipe and making a hole back into the egr system?? or am i pissing down the wrong path with the egr idea??
any advice would be appreciated.
cheers
weemsy

[Weemsy]

as an update....
ive done the diagnostic check with the blink codes and it gives code 12 -- no fault???
please help
cheers
weemsy

[spanky]

it could be the extractors making it no good down low but then it should go good up in the revs, ive got suzisport extractors on mine and below about 1700rpm it is flat but after that pulls good right to my freind the limiter ,dont know how much the egr would affect it.
vaughan

[De-Ranged]

it could be the extractors making it no good down low but then it should go good up in the revs, ive got suzisport extractors on mine and below about 1700rpm it is flat but after that pulls good right to my freind the limiter ,dont know how much the egr would affect it.
vaughan

that goes with what you texted me last night

[Passtime]

I think the problem Weemsy is that you have lost a couple of cylinders. Should have kept the V6.

[Weemsy]

haha
i was hoping for v6 power after fitting the extractors. ended up with an upside-down 1 potter!!!
after crazee drove it yesterday he said he couldnt find the top end either
the only thing that improved is that i got it upto about 125kmh instead of the normal 110kmh on the same stretch of road between 2 roundabouts. i think that paj muffler and the rest of the 2" pipe needs to go on de-ranged
AND FAST.
not that fast though cuz it will take me longer to get down to the shed

[Weemsy]

i wonder if letting the handbrake off will help??



IM KIDDING

[Weemsy]

i think i have found the problem...........
will post pics up later and you judge for yourselves what could be the problem.
you will p1ss yourselves.
weemsy

[Weemsy]

when the extractors went on and it started playing up we adjusted the ignition timing to see if would be any better and noticed that it was on full advance all the time.
i thought yesterday id just check it out and got a timing light and everything set up and checked ignition timing.
spot on. hmmmmm
i thought i would then check the cam timing and change the belt while i was at it.
this picture shows the engine at crankshaft TDC!!!
fugging hell, i thought the belt must have slipped at some point, but no.
it turns out the lad i got it off had just had the belt done before i bought it.
its not been noisy before, only had a slight mis-fire at idle.
i think this will cure my lack of power and a few other things at the same time!!
ive turned it over and compression tested it and it seems that it will be ok. but we will see.
WATCH THIS SPACE!!!!
weemsy

[Heath]

Well that sorts out the position question I had about the e mark on the cam pulley (cheers).

Must make sure I do it right.

Heath

[Weemsy]

hey heath,
i can copy and paste you some pages from a couple of manuals ive got if you want??
pm me you email address if you do.
just wish the d**k head who has fitted this belt did the same.
hope i dont have bent valves.
cheers
weemsy

[Heath]

Yeah any info would be ggod.

davo@clear.net.nz

Is yours a 16V or 8v? If the head is damaged I have one here for an 8v you can have for really cheap. dont know its condition but it's an option if ya need it.

Heath

[Heath]

Never mind I see it is a 16V. still an option if you get stuck.

[spanky]

i have broken a cam belt on mine while driving it , the belt broke at quite a few revs and didnt bend or damage anything, they say they are an interferance motor but i have twice proved they arent,2nd time tensioner parted company and belt jumped some teeth, if you need valves i have a spare 16v head at work.
vaughan

[Weemsy]

the timing wasnt too far off what it should have been!!
they had fitted the cam sprocket the wrong way round last time the belt was done. make sure the cam peg (it can be seen in the picture) is at the bottom of the cam (not near the top like in the picture), and the outer 'E' mark at the top. then set your ignition rotor on cylinder 4.
i tried to set it up the way that the haynes and chilton manuals say and either i dont read it right or they got it wrong (they both say that the 16 valve is a g16b though, mine is a g16a).

heath, i will take some photos tonight and email them to you with how i did it, cuz its easier to understand. il pm you my phone number incase you get stuck.
its easy to do the cam belt though, i am paralysed in my left arm and i did it myself (along with a full service, remove and refit a front axle mount, fit extractors etc etc).

like spanky says, its possible to turn the crank through 360' by hand and not touch the valves. mine sounds sweet enough anyway but i will let you know if i need any valves or anything when ive given it a run. ive been tidying up around the engine bay while ive got all these bits off, re-routing wires and pipes, and ive just removed the air-con system. (does anyone want to buy an air-con system by the way?? )

cheers
weemsy

[Weemsy]

heath, i emailed you some pics and a rough guide to checking/setting the timing hows ive done mine.

my truck has gone from average performance 4wd to slow as sh1te POS to very torquey, rev-happy truck in the space of 4 days

im going to mess about with the egr now and see if disconnecting or blanking off the vacuum system has any effect as i think that with it still fitted it may make the efi run lean on acceleration as the diaphragm should still be opening/closing even with no exhaust gases running through it. im not 100% sure about how the system works because it seems to be different than anything ive looked at before (mainly commercials or industrial engines though). will let you know because i dont want any unhealthy detonation going on in there!!

hopefully get the rest of the exhaust system done to 2 inch pipe this weekend and a v6 paj muffler fitted. just need a snorkel then or maybe run the intake through the firewall, but not sure how noisy that will make it because this is my daily drive aswell.

will post some pics of my truck soon cuz the body lift is (hopefully) going in in the next week or so and il try to get my 30's fitted.

cheers
weemsy

[Heath]

Cheers for the pics Steve.

Are you going to run 2 inch pipe? I was leaning slightly towards 2.25 inch but was concerned the increase in dia would leave me with no torque down low.

After reading the haynes manual I was a little confused also. Although if i recall correctly they say to line up the dizzy with no 1 not 4 (will check this myself and amend the book to read correctly).

Don't know why I was so worried about doing the cam belt (just nervous I guess, it being such a pain to get to and potentially expensive to fix). Now I have a few pictures I am willing to tackle it.

Could you please let me know where the battery leads go on the 16V? I have one (the pos lead?) that is to the starter etc but the other isn't attached (have to replace it as it is broken anyway). Actually any help with all the engine / chassis earths in the engine bay would be handy so I can check them all off as I go.

Any tips on how to lessen the mess of vac hoses would be good. I never intend to run this on road or worry about fuel consumption so lots of the bits are probably just junk anyway.

Regards,

Heath

[Weemsy]

hi heath,
i only tidied my wiring up yesterday so i can remember a few of them. you should have seen the rats nest that it was
i can take some more pictures for you if you like
let me know what and where you want pictures of and what other wiring you are unsure of and il take the snaps tomorrow.

honestly, the cam-belt is piss-easy to do really. its not that difficult to get to either, it just looks it
if you do the timing by the pictures that i emailed to you make sure you do the rotor on number 4. ignore the haynes manual that says number 1. trust me, it wont start

the negative lead should split off into 2, one goes to the wing by the battery (body earth) and the other looks like it goes to the starter motor body (engine earth) LET ME CONFIRM THIS IN THE DAY LIGHT TOMORROW
cant quite see properly with a fag lighter

cheers
weemsy

[Weemsy]

ask DE-RANGED what exhaust pipe but i think its 2 inch. from talking to a guy in the states, 2.5 inch gives great top end but no low-down power/torque.

[Heath]

I figured the 2.5 might be too big but didnt want to stiffle things too much. Of course my exhaust doesnt have to comply with LTNZ specs so can be short and noisy. It will probably end up being almost straight with just one muffler (straight through type) so will be pretty free flowing, not to mention loud. Cant wait to start the little beast up without the exhaust on and just run the headers for a bit. Will bodge the back half of the old system on to quieten it when i have had enough noise (and for the neighbors)

Will do an oil change as well while the front is off. has anyone run diesel in their engine as a cleaner (in place of the oil)? been told to run the engine for 60 secs and then drain it out and change the filter.

Heath

[Weemsy]

ran mine on just the headers for a bit
i was at de-ranged place though so it would be him that got a b0ll0cking
ive got extractors with 2 inch pipe straight to the muffler (no cat or hot-dog type thing) and its still as quiet as before. having a v6 paj muffler fitted and the rest of the pipe made to 2 inch so i dont know how it will sound then.

i have seen and heard of people running diesel through the engine to clean it but......your oil pump (unless its brand new) will probably not be able to pump something as thin as diesel (even new the oil pressure is very low). cant you just tip some diesel through it when you have the rocker cover off and leave the sump plug out?? i dont know how good that engine flush stuff is but try that BEFORE you change your oil so it comes out with the old oil, thats supposed to remove sludge and stuff.
personally i wouldnt run my engine with diesel lubricating (or attempting to lubricate ) the big-end bearings and stuff. it probably wont even make it up to the cam shaft where loads of the sludge will be.
my 2c worth, let me know what you do/how you get on.

cheers
weemsy

[spanky]

with the exhaust i used 2.25 from the headers back through one straight through muffler and it is good , to loud for the road but mine is not road legal, plus you get good flames so i love it . my intake goes from the std airbox straight through the fire wall, i just moved the loom over enough for a piece of 90mm pipe to fit past.
vaughan

[lneil]

Regarding the cambelt, don't be paranoid about it as they are a non-interference engine, so even if it breaks you just end up with a no-go engine. There should be no resultant internal damage.

[Heath]

Done the cam belt (took 30 mins), oil change, changed the master brake cylinder, sorted out a few odd nuts and bolts I couldnt get to, reattached the air filer (pod) and EFM ready for a start, but I havent got the brackets that support them. Anyone got one spare? is it easier to just go through the firewall now and be done with it? Was my intention anyway to do just that. any pics of the pipework required?

I figured I would cut the ali pipe before it curves and put a silicon elbow in to bend it down and towards the firewall, thern a short length of pipe, then throught the wall and another elbow and then to the AFM which I intend to tuck up under the passengerside dash.

The to do list is smaller again (yahoo)
just have to get the electrics sorted, refil the brake system (have some dot 4 fluid to use (although it says use dot3 in brake fluid lid)), sort out the steering common link (its bent and I have a new one to put on), bung the radiator on and then fuel ant turn the key. (if only it was that simple)

Heath

[Weemsy]

i wouldnt mind some pics of what anyone has done to route the intake through the firewall.
snorkel is just too expensive for me unless i make one from upvc pipe or something?
has anyone done it like this do you know?
i might start a new thread about it.

weemsy

[Weasel]

Be aware it's a re-cert if you go thru firewall, I blanked the snorkel thru firewall off for this reason (and because it's freakin loud) and did exterior one with steel pipe. Pitstop sell a "combi-bend" which has a 45, 30, 15, 180, 90 and about 1.5m of straight, I only had to make about 3 cuts and I had all the pieces with right bend for snorkel.

[Weemsy]

cheers for that, there are so many different tales saying to put through the firewall and its quiet.
nice to hear it off someone who actually did it
il call in pitstop this morning. i would prefer an exterior snorkel anyway
cheers
weemsy

[spanky]

the inside is only loud if you floor it at low revs, but my zaust is louder than the intake any way, i had a external snorkel but they dont like it when you roll on to them .
vaughan