Got the bill today $620 this covers 2x cv boots,diff oil and only charged me 9 hours larbour instead of the 14 they spent on it. The only thing is it still got the bang in the front but he did say ever thing look ok. This makes me feel better
Bloody hell you got ripped, I just sent off a bill for a job i did the other weekend full service (diff, gearbox and engine oil, air, fuel and oil filters, pulled and inspected the clutch and new throwout and spigot bearings) and it was $50 more than you payed.... that and the fact they got the diff locka wrong don't go back
Ever now and then but dont hardly take my suzuki as my partner doesnt like traveling in it Wasnt to happy about the price ever but what can you do lession learnt. It is hard finding a good all round mechanic in this town that has a realistic charge out rate.
OK guys here's a update. Went for a trip today pretty hard core outting Had some good mud climbs etc up banks down a rocky/bogg stream and the only times it went bang in the front was when going down hill slightly turning left and not under much load and when i got bellyed a few times and load come of front tyres done it in a straight line?? and after spending $620 woundnt expect to see oil coming out where axel goes into diff when i got home so looks like things will be getting pulled apart again.
bigbear wrote:oil coming out where axel goes into diff
Most likely the seal is just gone, Had to replace mine costs $15 for the gen suzuki part. Took me like 4 hours to do both ends a few months ago (removing the whole diff). Following Queen's birthday weekend now I have a minor diff oil leak coming from the top of the diff that I haven't bothered tracing yet.
Looks like my front diff was a victim at QBW as well, it had been leaking a little since then and I was not worried then I drove for 2 hours up to feilding on Friday night and on Saturday morning the diff had puked out heaps of oily watery foamy crap on my parents drive. it seems to be coming out were the driveshaft goes into the diff so I guess a seal there must have gone and I need to drain and replace whats left in it. looks like I need to extend the breathers as well
ok got a fiend here who says to look at the rear donut mount on the diff , had same problem caused by wheel alinement and camber lose centre bolt in the donut hope this helps good luck
the loud clunk is caused by the diff winding up through a turn and twisting the housing then when binds right up will swing back into place, check you have no leaks in the vacum line and that the 4wd selector is working and not staying in 4wd. these things have no hub locks the cv is locked to the hub and the air actuates a sliding ringgear in the diff head end that locks the drive axles to the diff. is a funky set up. if your oil is coming from ontop of the diff head you have a crack caused by too much windup. Have a mate with the same problem at the moment (I think he is on housing #3) I Have looked at it a few times now and think easiest way around it would be to fit a set of free wheeling hubs (i thing calmini do them) this will take all the load of the diff while on the black stuff and check and renew your diff housing mounts. Also if any of you guy's have a blown or damaged complete diff head laying around (must have the vacum bits) I would be keen on playing with it as I think with a bit of work could be turned into a selectable locker. Also check all your backlash from the cvs to the transfer case. and remember each part's movement adds to the next when the load goes from one side to the other so ever bit of wear soon adds up.
If you follow me in the bush you must be mad cause I'm plain CRAZY !!!
1987 BJ74, 13BT, Auto, 35" Wranglers, 80mm Suspension Lift, 2" body lift, LSD rear, ARB Front Locker, PTO, Lots of Steel and a Go Hard Driver.